Seekins PH3 or Tikka t3x roughtech ember

[The Harbor Master]

If you're going to change the stock on the Ember, what about getting a cheaper SS Lite, sell barrel and stock, and rebarrel with pre-fit of your choice? You'd still come out around the price of the Ember for the barreled action you end up with, and then can get whatever stock you would have if you got the Ember. That way you also have control of the barrel profile and length to address your rigidity concerns (IMO D16 is perfectly fine).

 

[Junkel87]

If you're going to change the stock on the Ember, what about getting a cheaper SS Lite, sell barrel and stock, and rebarrel with pre-fit of your choice? You'd still come out around the price of the Ember for the barreled action you end up with, and then can get whatever stock you would have if you got the Ember. That way you also have control of the barrel profile and length to address your rigidity concerns (IMO D16 is perfectly fine).

I honestly didn't figure anyone would buy a factory tikka barrel or stock.

 

[nm.otter]

2025 offerings in 6.5 PRC (both Lite and Superlite) come with 22" barrels threaded 5/8"-24.

If you want shorter, pick up one of the previous generation (discounted) to cut and thread.

The factory barrels (whatever material and profile) are really quite good.

 

[The Harbor Master]

I honestly didn't figure anyone would buy a factory tikka barrel or stock.

I hear you, I was surprised too. There's a decent market for both, theyre in the classifieds here quite a bit. I would bet a SS Lite barrel in 6.5PRC would get grabbed quick, especially factory threaded. If you dont want to do the barrel swap you could check with @hereinaz and see if he can set you up with a 6.5PRC barreled action, I dont remember pricing but I bet it's not much more than an Ember. Not sure he's doing 6.5PRC prefits but worth an ask.

 

[Timjohnson11]

I’ve owned and shot multiple PH2s. In general, they are one of the better performing actions compare to others. Their inherent failure points are bolt bind and the main downfall being repeated trigger failures.

PH3 doesn’t interest me as it’s the same gun with a couple minor changes, none of which addresses the heavy field use issues.

If you’re comparing them to other “hunting gun” brands. They are good. But you’re comparing them to a Tikka, which is in a different class of function and reliability.

I’m not saying you are right or wrong but your ignorance is showing throughout this thread. All that was asked was how you came to such a quick conclusion on reliability for an action that just barely came out and that you clearly have no trigger time behind given your lack of understanding (e.g., “same… couple minor changes”).

OP: if you enjoy tinkering and upgrading your rifle, get the Tikka and have some fun personalizing it along the way. It’s the best platform to build off. If you want the easy button out of the box, go with the PH3. None of my Tikkas matched the accuracy (out of the box that is) of my PH3, nor did they come with near the functionable feature set of my PH3.

I’m only ~300 rounds into my PH3 so much smaller sample set than my experience with Tikkas but man is that new PH3 action smooth, much improved over my PH2 actions. Honestly can’t go wrong with a Tikka or PH3 in my opinion.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Yes I do prefer a slightly heavier rifle and I figured the D18 was more ridgid. Also figured it would balance better with a suppressor on the end.

I also prefer a slightly heavier rifle. And I like the lite vs super lite barrel. I think that is the better choice. I personally don’t sneer at Tikka factory barrels. My experience with them has been good.

As far as Tikka versus Seekins, I prefer the Tikka action over the R700, but you do you. My mentor loves his R700 actions, but he’s had a good gunsmith put a lot of time and money into it. I have never used a Seekins, but I have handled a few. I prefer the Tikka.

What suppressor do you plan to use on the rifle? I am not asking to sidetrack the thread, but because I think you need to look at the entire weapon you are assembling and plan it from the start. That’s not to say it can never change, but it really helps me to have a rough weight, length, etc., in mind. I knew I wanted my rifle to be under 10# and no more than about 46”.

The Tikka 6.5 CM I just finished putting together started as a used (but LNIB) $500 T3X stainless steel lite. Based on the sale timing, it probably got used for one season and then sold. I liked the vanilla rifle very well, except for the stock, which felt longer than its 13.5” LOP. It was agreeably stiff, but it didn’t fit me right. I don’t know whether the $20 vertical grip would have felt better, but I knew I wanted a new stock anyway. I knew I wanted to try out the RokStok. I also didn’t care for the plastic “bottom metal”, so I immediately found a stainless steel one from PR Precision. That improved the look and feel of the rifle immensely. I had the barrel cut to 20” and threaded to 1/2x28. Other people recommended 18” and while they are probably right, I like a longer barrel. I knew I was going to use a suppressor that was about 6” long and I am comfortable with an overall barrel length of 26”.

With an SWFA 6x and UM rings it weighs 8.5#. Adding a 13.3 ounce AB 8 reflex suppressor and cover, I will have a rifle that weighs about 9.5# and measures 45.8” long.

Have fun building your new rifle!


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