Seekins PH3 or Tikka t3x roughtech ember

[The Harbor Master]

If you're going to change the stock on the Ember, what about getting a cheaper SS Lite, sell barrel and stock, and rebarrel with pre-fit of your choice? You'd still come out around the price of the Ember for the barreled action you end up with, and then can get whatever stock you would have if you got the Ember. That way you also have control of the barrel profile and length to address your rigidity concerns (IMO D16 is perfectly fine).

 

[Junkel87]

If you're going to change the stock on the Ember, what about getting a cheaper SS Lite, sell barrel and stock, and rebarrel with pre-fit of your choice? You'd still come out around the price of the Ember for the barreled action you end up with, and then can get whatever stock you would have if you got the Ember. That way you also have control of the barrel profile and length to address your rigidity concerns (IMO D16 is perfectly fine).

I honestly didn't figure anyone would buy a factory tikka barrel or stock.

 

[nm.otter]

2025 offerings in 6.5 PRC (both Lite and Superlite) come with 22" barrels threaded 5/8"-24.

If you want shorter, pick up one of the previous generation (discounted) to cut and thread.

The factory barrels (whatever material and profile) are really quite good.

 

[The Harbor Master]

I honestly didn't figure anyone would buy a factory tikka barrel or stock.

I hear you, I was surprised too. There's a decent market for both, theyre in the classifieds here quite a bit. I would bet a SS Lite barrel in 6.5PRC would get grabbed quick, especially factory threaded. If you dont want to do the barrel swap you could check with @hereinaz and see if he can set you up with a 6.5PRC barreled action, I dont remember pricing but I bet it's not much more than an Ember. Not sure he's doing 6.5PRC prefits but worth an ask.

 

[Timjohnson11]

I’ve owned and shot multiple PH2s. In general, they are one of the better performing actions compare to others. Their inherent failure points are bolt bind and the main downfall being repeated trigger failures.

PH3 doesn’t interest me as it’s the same gun with a couple minor changes, none of which addresses the heavy field use issues.

If you’re comparing them to other “hunting gun” brands. They are good. But you’re comparing them to a Tikka, which is in a different class of function and reliability.

I’m not saying you are right or wrong but your ignorance is showing throughout this thread. All that was asked was how you came to such a quick conclusion on reliability for an action that just barely came out and that you clearly have no trigger time behind given your lack of understanding (e.g., “same… couple minor changes”).

OP: if you enjoy tinkering and upgrading your rifle, get the Tikka and have some fun personalizing it along the way. It’s the best platform to build off. If you want the easy button out of the box, go with the PH3. None of my Tikkas matched the accuracy (out of the box that is) of my PH3, nor did they come with near the functionable feature set of my PH3.

I’m only ~300 rounds into my PH3 so much smaller sample set than my experience with Tikkas but man is that new PH3 action smooth, much improved over my PH2 actions. Honestly can’t go wrong with a Tikka or PH3 in my opinion.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Yes I do prefer a slightly heavier rifle and I figured the D18 was more ridgid. Also figured it would balance better with a suppressor on the end.

I also prefer a slightly heavier rifle. And I like the lite vs super lite barrel. I think that is the better choice. I personally don’t sneer at Tikka factory barrels. My experience with them has been good.

As far as Tikka versus Seekins, I prefer the Tikka action over the R700, but you do you. My mentor loves his R700 actions, but he’s had a good gunsmith put a lot of time and money into it. I have never used a Seekins, but I have handled a few. I prefer the Tikka.

What suppressor do you plan to use on the rifle? I am not asking to sidetrack the thread, but because I think you need to look at the entire weapon you are assembling and plan it from the start. That’s not to say it can never change, but it really helps me to have a rough weight, length, etc., in mind. I knew I wanted my rifle to be under 10# and no more than about 46”.

The Tikka 6.5 CM I just finished putting together started as a used (but LNIB) $500 T3X stainless steel lite. Based on the sale timing, it probably got used for one season and then sold. I liked the vanilla rifle very well, except for the stock, which felt longer than its 13.5” LOP. It was agreeably stiff, but it didn’t fit me right. I don’t know whether the $20 vertical grip would have felt better, but I knew I wanted a new stock anyway. I knew I wanted to try out the RokStok. I also didn’t care for the plastic “bottom metal”, so I immediately found a stainless steel one from PR Precision. That improved the look and feel of the rifle immensely. I had the barrel cut to 20” and threaded to 1/2x28. Other people recommended 18” and while they are probably right, I like a longer barrel. I knew I was going to use a suppressor that was about 6” long and I am comfortable with an overall barrel length of 26”.

With an SWFA 6x and UM rings it weighs 8.5#. Adding a 13.3 ounce AB 8 reflex suppressor and cover, I will have a rifle that weighs about 9.5# and measures 45.8” long.

Have fun building your new rifle!


____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I’m not saying you are right or wrong but your ignorance is showing throughout this thread. All that was asked was how you came to such a quick conclusion on reliability for an action that just barely came out and that you clearly have no trigger time behind given your lack of understanding (e.g., “same… couple minor changes”).

OP: if you enjoy tinkering and upgrading your rifle, get the Tikka and have some fun personalizing it along the way. It’s the best platform to build off. If you want the easy button out of the box, go with the PH3. None of my Tikkas matched the accuracy (out of the box that is) of my PH3, nor did they come with near the functionable feature set of my PH3.

I’m only ~300 rounds into my PH3 so much smaller sample set than my experience with Tikkas but man is that new PH3 action smooth, much improved over my PH2 actions. Honestly can’t go wrong with a Tikka or PH3 in my opinion.

The point is that it’s the same action/trigger and overall design that is already known. They changed the bolt to 60 degrees and went with 3 lug. Nothing else inherent to how the thing goes boom is any different.

 

[Junkel87]

I also prefer a slightly heavier rifle. And I like the lite vs super lite barrel. I think that is the better choice. I personally don’t sneer at Tikka factory barrels. My experience with them has been good.

As far as Tikka versus Seekins, I prefer the Tikka action over the R700, but you do you. My mentor loves his R700 actions, but he’s had a good gunsmith put a lot of time and money into it. I have never used a Seekins, but I have handled a few. I prefer the Tikka.

What suppressor do you plan to use on the rifle? I am not asking to sidetrack the thread, but because I think you need to look at the entire weapon you are assembling and plan it from the start. That’s not to say it can never change, but it really helps me to have a rough weight, length, etc., in mind. I knew I wanted my rifle to be under 10# and no more than about 46”.

The Tikka 6.5 CM I just finished putting together started as a used (but LNIB) $500 T3X stainless steel lite. Based on the sale timing, it probably got used for one season and then sold. I liked the vanilla rifle very well, except for the stock, which felt longer than its 13.5” LOP. It was agreeably stiff, but it didn’t fit me right. I don’t know whether the $20 vertical grip would have felt better, but I knew I wanted a new stock anyway. I knew I wanted to try out the RokStok. I also didn’t care for the plastic “bottom metal”, so I immediately found a stainless steel one from PR Precision. That improved the look and feel of the rifle immensely. I had the barrel cut to 20” and threaded to 1/2x28. Other people recommended 18” and while they are probably right, I like a longer barrel. I knew I was going to use a suppressor that was about 6” long and I am comfortable with an overall barrel length of 26”.

With an SWFA 6x and UM rings it weighs 8.5#. Adding a 13.3 ounce AB 8 reflex suppressor and cover, I will have a rifle that weighs about 9.5# and measures 45.8” long.

Have fun building your new rifle!


____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”

I'll be running an AB raptor 10 with 3" reflex.

 

[Junkel87]

The point is that it’s the same action/trigger and overall design that is already known. They changed the bolt to 60 degrees and went with 3 lug. Nothing else inherent to how the thing goes boom is any different.

I do not believe the action is anything like a R700. It's not compatible with any R700 parts except trigger. They redone the entire action from what I understand except the trigger. The bolt also has some kind cam system to help with a smooth bolt throw.

 

[Junkel87]

Thanks everyone for the help. I did end up getting a standard Tikka lite. I ended up going with the tikka because eventually I want to rebarrel it to a 6 Sherman Max or 6 PRC and it was the cheaper option. That brings me to another question I've only got the cash to do either the rebarrel or get a new stock at the moment. I,ve never shot a tikka before so do you think I should rebarrel it or get a stock first? My initial thought was stock but then I'd be paying to have factory barrel cut down and threaded to turn around in 6 months and have it rebarreled.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

I'll be running an AB raptor 10 with 3" reflex.

That’s an easy 15 ounces, before a cover, hanging on the end of the barrel. And at 7.2” long, I’d keep my barrel to 16-19”.

I have an AB Raptor 8 with 3” reflex coming for my 20” Tikka 6.5 CM. I have the AB Raptor 10 with 5” reflex coming for my 16” Tikka .223.


____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”

 

[Junkel87]

That’s an easy 15 ounces, before a cover, hanging on the end of the barrel. And at 7.2” long, I’d keep my barrel to 16-19”.

I have an AB Raptor 8 with 3” reflex coming for my 20” Tikka 6.5 CM. I have the AB Raptor 10 with 5” reflex coming for my 16” Tikka .223.


____________________
“Keep on keepin’ on…”

Yeah I wish I had got the raptor 6 honestly

 

[Tahoe1305]

Get a stock. Tikka barrels are usually solid. When folks sell them for $100 new I try and pick em up. Can’t be beat for the price IMO.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I do not believe the action is anything like a R700. It's not compatible with any R700 parts except trigger. They redone the entire action from what I understand except the trigger. The bolt also has some kind cam system to help with a smooth bolt throw.

Again. Nothing inherent to how it goes “bang” is any different from the PH2 apart from the changes I mentioned above. I played with and shot a PH3 yesterday and tore my buddies rifles down.

I’m curious to see how the new firing pin assembly, particularly the new bushing design, holds up over time. This seems to act like a “lever” aiding with cocking in only 60 degrees of throw versus 90. I do like how the entire bolt assembly is field serviceable similar to a Tikka/Sako with no tools. The new extraction design on the bolt head, going away from the M16 style of the PH2 seems to help aid in the gun “feeling” smoother during cycling. I’m wondering how the sliding extractor style and smaller dual ejectors will hold up over time.

I’m not a fan of the “quick change” barrel design with the pin assembly and seekins only reccomending “hand tight” on the barrel threads; relying nearly fully on that system for barrel to action engagement.

Are the other changes from from PH2 to PH3 good changes? I think so.

The new action to stock mounting system looks to be much more robust with the flat bottom action and recoil lug style “block” mounting. The increased thickness in metal in the tang area should help relieve known issues with the PH2s. This is all dependent on how the “mini chassis” assembly holds up long term in their stocks. Time and use will tell.

The scope base to action with integrated rail is a huge improvement for field rifles as well. This eliminates another major root cause of guns losing zero in use.

Everything else about the overall action, including the main downfall of the PH2 (the trigger system) remains. If it wasn’t for that, I would be putting a PH3 through the paces next to my other field guns for some analysis.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Thanks everyone for the help. I did end up getting a standard Tikka lite. I ended up going with the tikka because eventually I want to rebarrel it to a 6 Sherman Max or 6 PRC and it was the cheaper option. That brings me to another question I've only got the cash to do either the rebarrel or get a new stock at the moment. I,ve never shot a tikka before so do you think I should rebarrel it or get a stock first? My initial thought was stock but then I'd be paying to have factory barrel cut down and threaded to turn around in 6 months and have it rebarreled.

I wouldn’t rebarrel the gun personally. I’d order a Rokstok for it and shoot/hunt with it until the barrel is shot out.