Seated Tripod Shooting Position

[TheCougar]

Both of those tripods would be in the rickety category but they can still be used. Just know you’re never going to get close to prone stability out of them. I would concentrate on techniques that use some rear support. Personally I’d avoid anything that requires trekking poles in the back as that’s just more adjustment needed, when it already takes long enough to get a tripod setup.

As you found out clamps suck. They are old tech in the world of tripods. There’s quite a few options for arca rails out there, depending on your stock. I like one on the front of the foreend, and prefer 5+” so I don’t have to drop my bipod if I want to clip into it. My bipods also attach to arca. If I were buying one right now out of what Iv had is buy another from sawtooth rifles, they are pretty think, and have some good options. https://www.sawtoothrifles.com/product/dovetail-rail-stock-plates/

As far as heads go, really a ball head is about the only ideal option for shooting, with a pan head it’s just too difficult to get level and where you want to be. I am a fan of the rrs anvil but it’s not the best glassing head.

Another option you have is to buy a lightweight “table” that attaches to your head and utilize a bag on top of it. Or just slap a bigger bag right on top of the head. If you’re stuck with a pan head I’d buy a schmedium or pint sized gamechanger with git lite fill and use it up there. I prefer to shoot this way when applicable. But like the clamp it’s more stuff.

Hunting, I can carry my tripod and my shooting bag in one hand, rifle in the other and be ready for about any scenario.

That same bag I mentioned above can also be used as a rear bag prone or a front bag on a rock, log, stump, whatever. Mine stays attached to the outside of my pack all the time.

Practice a lot, and don’t be afraid of some ugly groups.

This is one place I feel a 22lr shines, learning to build a decent position with minimal wobble.

Natural point of aim is king. If it feels like you’re forcing it, it’s going to affect your shot. Practice building positions you’re comfortable in.

Thank you. So many good points to look at here. I’m going to ask a few more questions…

1. Copy on the pan head. I never considered that. I’ll keep looking for a good pan head. It needs to be excellent at glassing since that what I’ll use it for 99% of the time.
2. What’s your schmedium with git lite weigh? They have the pint size weight listed at 1.2lbs, but nothing for the schmedium with the lite fill. If you only had one bag, would it be a pint or schmedium?
3. Do the arca rails you mentioned fit on a traditional hunting stick with a rounded fore end? Salmon River Solutions has rounded arca rails at a premium price.
4. As far as 22LR, I’ve been thinking about getting a trainer. A couple of guys have recommended the Ruger Precision and they practice at my range with it. It’s heavy and ugly, but is there anything better for $600 with an SWFA on top of it?

 

[Lawnboi]

Thank you. So many good points to look at here. I’m going to ask a few more questions…

1. Copy on the pan head. I never considered that. I’ll keep looking for a good pan head. It needs to be excellent at glassing since that what I’ll use it for 99% of the time.
2. What’s your schmedium with git lite weigh? They have the pint size weight listed at 1.2lbs, but nothing for the schmedium with the lite fill.
3. Do the arca rails you mentioned fit on a traditional hunting stick with a rounded fore end? Salmon River Solutions has rounded arca rails at a premium price.
4. As far as 22LR, I’ve been thinking about getting a trainer. A couple of guys have recommended the Ruger Precision and they practice at my range with it. It’s heavy and ugly, but is there anything better for $600 with an SWFA on top of it?

I’ll start by mentioning I’m not a super lightweight gear guy. I have been down the super light road and now carry what will make me reasonably the most successful when the shot needs to be taken.


1. If a pan head is what you require, I wouldn’t even bother clipping in. I would go the bag route. Even if I’m not carrying my tripod I still bring that bag. Iv used it for nearly every animal Iv shot in the last few years. If you end up going down the road further eventually, there is an option of a heavier duty tripod that may do what you require; but they are not cheap, and come with the weight penalty. The problem with a pan head, and clipping in in general is that you have to have everything adjusted to perfection, to not introduce torque into the system, ie trying to muscle the rifle on target, even if it’s very little. A pan head dosnt allow you to level meaning you must do it with legs, and at that point if your adjusting legs to level your wasting a lot of time.

2. My git lite pint sized was 1 pound, I sold it to my hunting buddy, and now have a schmedium, as that’s what I use for competition as well. My schmedium with my preferred amount of fill is 24oz. The schmedium has a lot more surface area which makes a more stable platform. Both work, current production has a full spout so you can adjust fill to what’s desired (they come over stuffed). Both bags are light enough to clip on a pack strap, or your belt/bino harness on a stalk. For me they make a deadfall or a rock nearly prone stable. Given the choice I would shoot off a log or rock long before I considered my tripod. A positional shooting bag is the single most used piece of shooting equipment I believe has made the biggest difference in my confidence when it comes time to pull the trigger. They do okay as a pillow as well.

3. The sawtooth rails have a couple ridges in them, on the underside that work on a semi rounded foreend. Many others are flat. Srs has a good solution for a rounded stock but I do not prefer how much the ones I got come off the stock, the sawtooth is just more low profile. I don’t even bother with an arca around the front of the action screw anymore as I don’t prefer to shoot a light gun that way, and I hate carrying an arca rail. I’m a gun in the hand and all times hunter, I almost never strap my rifle to my back while I have a tag in my pocket.

4. For 600 I’d have a hard time not saving a few hundred more for a 223 tikka. I have a T1x, and am generally happy with it. Anything will work, but I would buy something with a similar style stock as you use, and a similar weight. I’d have a hard time faulting a T1x with a swfa 6 or 10x on top, and everyone needs a 22, or a 17.

 

[Tahoe1305]

Bump for recommendations on a lightweight (1 pound or less) tripod head for glassing and shooting.

I’m going to slightly modify (sand) my VA5 and use it this year. Not positive it will work great for shooting. But I think it’s stable enough and works best for glassing. I think for me glassing is priority.

 

[Fire power]

This is a pretty good video showing what you are asking about.

This is what I basically do, it just feels natural.

 

[hereinaz]

Spent some time to get product shots, so used the time to get some kneeling pics for you of one way that I shoot and gear I use. This is a quicker way to get into a good position for a shot. It is frequently used at NRL Hunter matches, and mastered. The Peanut bag is a new release, some of you have seen the prototypes at matches.

You don’t need our gear. You have stuff that is already with you. I use all sorts of things to fill the space. My pack, a puffy jacket in a stuff sack, my kill kit with game bags, water bottles, rocks, chunks of trees.

The idea is to fill as much space so you can relax as many muscles as possible and reduce tension in the body. Tension creates wobble. And, tension in the body doesn’t absorb recoil. Think relaxed like a chunk of meat, ready to just suck up the recoil. If you tense, you can’t be consistent.

Square up to rifle at 90 degree.
Buttstock on collarbone, high, and under cheek.
Head leaning forward on stock, with very little sideways leaning. Medium and high rings for me, always. If you are old or have neck problems, go high or extra high.
Both eyes open, one on level the other focused on the reticle. Alternate closing eyes if you can’t keep both open and switch focus between eyes.
Left hand controlling forend for recoil and stabilize sight picture. Or, left hand on tripod with arm crossing over and thumb down for more control over the tripod if it is wiggling.
Right hand gently pulling rifle towards shoulder, squeezing with gentle equal pressure side to side between finger tips and palm.
Torso leaning forward slightly, balanced, to better absorb and control recoil and relaxed to put more dead weight meat behind the buttstock.
Cushion under your knee on ground.
Fill the space between heel and butt if you can’t rest your butt on your heel.
Knee up for elbow support.
Shooting elbow on knee, find a comfortable spot that is solid and doesn’t wiggle around. There are divots round the knee that the elbow can drop into.
Rifle at balance point on bag. OR, lock rifle into ARCA rail at balance point.

All of the stuff in the pics are ultralight.
Soft bag under knee. 2.5 ounces
Soft bag on heel and under butt. About 4 ounces
Sunshade. 2 ounces
Peanut bag, about a pound
Mini Waxed Canvas. Less than a pound, 10 ounces I think.
You can flop either bag over the tripod head to shoot from.

Or, use a tripod plate. I have to check the weight of our tripod plate, but it is machined ABS so it is light and stiff. Salmon River machines they for me.

 

[hereinaz]

I like the inverted leg tripods. Stiffest per pound.

And, the single height adjustment on each leg is always within reach.

I like this ball head. It has the handle to control and drive where it is pointed. And, it has a nice adjustable drag tension so I can nose my binos around without tightening or loosening the handle.

 

[hereinaz]

Both of those tripods would be in the rickety category but they can still be used. Just know you’re never going to get close to prone stability out of them. I would concentrate on techniques that use some rear support. Personally I’d avoid anything that requires trekking poles in the back as that’s just more adjustment needed, when it already takes long enough to get a tripod setup.

As you found out clamps suck. They are old tech in the world of tripods. There’s quite a few options for arca rails out there, depending on your stock. I like one on the front of the foreend, and prefer 5+” so I don’t have to drop my bipod if I want to clip into it. My bipods also attach to arca. If I were buying one right now out of what Iv had is buy another from sawtooth rifles, they are pretty think, and have some good options. https://www.sawtoothrifles.com/product/dovetail-rail-stock-plates/

As far as heads go, really a ball head is about the only ideal option for shooting, with a pan head it’s just too difficult to get level and where you want to be. I am a fan of the rrs anvil but it’s not the best glassing head.

Another option you have is to buy a lightweight “table” that attaches to your head and utilize a bag on top of it. Or just slap a bigger bag right on top of the head. If you’re stuck with a pan head I’d buy a schmedium or pint sized gamechanger with git lite fill and use it up there. I prefer to shoot this way when applicable. But like the clamp it’s more stuff.

Hunting, I can carry my tripod and my shooting bag in one hand, rifle in the other and be ready for about any scenario.

That same bag I mentioned above can also be used as a rear bag prone or a front bag on a rock, log, stump, whatever. Mine stays attached to the outside of my pack all the time.

Practice a lot, and don’t be afraid of some ugly groups.

This is one place I feel a 22lr shines, learning to build a decent position with minimal wobble.

Natural point of aim is king. If it feels like you’re forcing it, it’s going to affect your shot. Practice building positions you’re comfortable in.

This is money. Live it.

Also, go dry fire in your backyard. Do the build and break drill. Put your gear in your pack. Walk up, deploy your gear and build your position. Dry fire twice. Break your position and put it all together again. Get your pack on your back, and do it again.

Choose different aim points, up, down, high, low, improvise angles to build positions on with your tripod.

Mark your tripod with a silver sharpie or paint pen for neutral positions while sitting, kneeling, high kneeling, and standing.

Go on a hike with your gear. Get to a clear spot. Pretend a rock is your deer. Range, get dope, go through the whole process and shoot a three shot group. Built and break and do it again.

I have a table in pics above, and many of the shooting bags I make can flop right over the ball head. Or, practice locking it in with ARCA.

I like full ARCA. In prone or modified prone, I lock it on the forend like a bipod. Higher than prone, I typically go for the balance point.

If I can get rear support somehow, I lock it out front like a bipod.

Boi is right, if you get used to a tripod, you can invent all sorts of different possibilities.

A stump, boulder or fallen tree becomes rear support with your tripod supporting the front and you kneeling with your torso leaning relaxed on the log with a rear bag under the buttstock. It’s endless.

But, with crappy gear you will never realize it. Guys are always mocking my long tripod and stuff. They say, takes too long to set up, etc. I say, ok, let’s race and see who shoots that rock at 500 first.

I win, if they can even shoot the rock. And, I am barely proficient. Enough for supreme confidence hunting. But, middling of the pack for NRL Hunter, at my best right now.

After shooting like a boss out to 700 the first day at the range with my gear, or seeing a someone kill with my gear at long range, people convert quickly, if they are serious.

I am nothing special, I just listened to real pros. And, I like to pass on what they taught me to other dudes like me who just want confidence.

This thread shows that you guys are interested. So, I try to pass it on, like Boi and others.

 

[hereinaz]

Here’s pictures to give you an idea how I pack and hunt with them when we are at a glassing spot. If I don’t need my tripod for glassing, my rifle is ready to go and I already have the area ranged and know my dope to dial out to 400 yard radius.

The tripod can be set for standing, even a seated shot from a chair, or anything else.

First thing off my pack are my tripod then rifle. I get my tripod set, and often lock my rifle in and build and break my position with a few dry fires, no mag in for that. Then I get settled in for glassing.

It’s about preparation for me. I will often shoot from the glassing point.

 

[sambo3006]

Some of you guys have some serious setups. They are impressive.
I keep it super simple personally. I have a light weight adjustable height tripod stool and a Primos trigger stick tall tripod that I have modified so that the legs will spread out farther so it will go lower to the ground. It isn't as substantial as a lot of the tripods pictured but it can be deployed and adjusted very quickly. I rest my elbows on my knees and can shoot quite comfortably out to 600 yards with the stool. If I have to shoot quickly I use the kneeling position instead of the stool. I feel pretty good out to 500 yards with that setup.

 

[doc holiday13]

a super stable method of shooting lr from a tripod would be to have a 2nd tripod you could pull into at the buttstock of the didn't