Scope Rings on Tikka T3 without Recoil Pin Holes

[TagPrincess]

I’ve got an older T3 tikka in 270 win that has just 4 screw holes on the top. I got a set of UM tikka rings because of the recoil pin design but I’ve now realized that my rifle can’t utilize them. A few options I’ve considered below- would appreciate any suggestions or recommendations.

-have a gunsmith drill and tap holes for the recoil pins (time, money)
-just mount without the recoil pins - of course degrease and loctite (I’m worried I won’t be confident in its dependability)
-add loctite 380 between the receiver and ring bases and mount as in #2 (happy middle ground? Would it damage blueing? Effective?)

My dad gave me this rifle and I’ve got a lot of memories with it so I dont want to sell it. But going forward it will be mostly a back up rifle and loaner gun for buddies to use. All that’s to say I’m fine making useful modifications to it but don’t want to damage it.

 

[HuntHarder]

The UM rings come with inserts that thread into the top of the receiver. I have 2 sets on Standard Tikka T3's. Use 1 hole for each ring.

 

[BBob]

You can’t get even one single threaded pin in a location that works? Hard to imagine that happening.

I doubt you’d ever get 380 fully off cleanly without messing with the finish.

 

[morgaj1]

I would not use the rings without the recoil pin. I think your best option is to use a picatinny rail without recoil pins and would consider gluing it like Form recommends. Then, you would have your choice of pic rings.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

I didn’t have any problems mounting the UM rings on my standard T3. The spacing is pretty forgiving.

 

[Deere_Man]

Just mount a set of conventional bases and move on. Burris Xtreme Tactical seem to work well.

 

[bnewt3]

I have Talley direct mount rings on mine in 308, just a little purple loctite 222, no pin, probably 200rds through it, no issues.

 

[skipper907]

mounting without using any recoil pins is a NO go. The ring with slide with recoil

 

[Balderdash]

Ive ran UM's and SM's right to the rail, and still would for the right situation - mainly weight savings. They've not given me any trouble, but I'm sometimes less than thrilled with the available ring spacing allowed with the direct to integral rail options. In general, I've gone to 1913 rails on Tikkas. They allow for optimum ring spacing no matter the scope tube length or ER concerns. For longer scopes, I run the MT or Talley extended Tikka rail, which allows for getting the rings as far towards the distal ends of the scope as possible, which is your scope's best friend.