Scope moving in rings

[chizelhead]

I have a 23 oz 30 mm scope that is in Talley Lightweight rings on a 300 WSM CA FFT. It's moving in the rings when I shoot. I have it at max scope torque of 18 in-lbs. I added a little nail polish to the bottom half of the ring to create some friction so it didn't slip but that didn't help. I would appreciate hearing suggestions on what I can do to keep the scope from slipping. I bought MDT elite rings with a 2 piece picatinny, but it adds 5 ozs to my setup. I was hoping to keep it as light as possible given what I want to add to the set up including scope and suppressor. That being said, if light doesn't work, then I'll add weight for function. Thanks in advance.

 

[Weldor]

Burris uses friction tape, might help.

 

[Marshfly]

Go 20 pounds at least. If your scope/rings won't handle that, sell it and buy one that will.

 

[SomeJackassOnAForum]

Go 20 pounds at least. If your scope/rings won't handle that, sell it and buy one that will.

This makes literally zero sense.

OP, call the ring manufacturer and ask them what the torque specs for your rings are

 

[chizelhead]

Ring spec is 17-20 in-lb. Scope spec is 17.7 in-lb

 

[SDHNTR]

This makes literally zero sense.

OP, call the ring manufacturer and ask them what the torque specs for your rings are

Actually makes perfect sense.

Op, ditch the Talleys, eat the weight and get a good pic rail and rings.

If you must, lap those pos Talleys until they are actually round. Dust a lil rosin in the rings and retorque to at least 20 in lbs.

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

I agree with the above. Take it to 22 or 25 in pounds. If you have the right scope for it, it shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Marshfly]

This makes literally zero sense.

OP, call the ring manufacturer and ask them what the torque specs for your rings are

It makes perfect sense. If a scope or rings are too delicate to handle 20# of torque they have no business on a magnum (or any) rifle.

 

[Marshfly]

Ring spec is 17-20 in-lb. Scope spec is 17.7 in-lb

17.7 inch pounds sounds like a manufacturer that would just beg to decline a warranty repair due to over or under torque IMHO.

 

[SDHNTR]

Swaro? Leupold? Or Vortex?

 

[4th_point]

I wouldn't use Talley ringmounts myself. I had them crack. But if you are wanting to keep them, here are some thoughts.

1. How are you measuring torque? Sure you are getting a valid reading?
2. Either way, try taking the small L-shaped key included with the rings, and hold the short end and see if you can snug the fasteners. Once that's done, I usually flip the key around and snug a tiny bit more but choke up on it.

I've used #2 above on literally dozens of scopes and rifles. No slippage or anything weird. As long as you use that short end you are unlikely to damage anything.

Be careful cranking away if you don't know the quality of the torque tool!

Good luck

 

[sndmn11]

The Talley rings are fine at 25inlb, they don't need lapped or anything other than torque and thread adhesive

 

[chizelhead]

First off, thanks everyone for jumping in with helpful suggestions. This is why I love this forum.

Answers

• It's a Swaro. I got religion on torquing ring screws after overtorquing ring screws on a Leupold a long time ago. I learned from that mistake and now use a torque driver for everything.
• 17.7 in-lb is a conversion from a round number -- 200 Ncm. That's why it's weirdish.
• I'm using a Neiko torque driver. I'm not a torque driver expert, but it seems to be working well. I think the only way to check it would be to get another torque drive.

 

[Marshfly]

First off, thanks everyone for jumping in with helpful suggestions. This is why I love this forum.

Answers

• It's a Swaro. I got religion on torquing ring screws after overtorquing ring screws on a Leupold a long time ago. I learned from that mistake and now use a torque drive for everything.
• 17.7 in-lb is a conversion from a round number -- 200 Ncm. That's why it's weirdish.
• I'm using a Neiko torque driver. I'm not a torque drive expert, but it seems to be working well. I think the only way to check it would be to get another torque drive.

You are on the right track. Go 20 and see if that fixes things. If not, new rings are in your future.

 

[Marshfly]

Will Hawkins Featherweight fit a CA FFT? That's what I run on my LA Rem 700.

I like light also...
If you swap, order them from Unknown Munitions. They listen to us here and deserve the business.

 

[4th_point]

• I'm using a Neiko torque driver. I'm not a torque drive expert, but it seems to be working well. I think the only way to check it would be to get another torque drive.

That looks like the Fat Wrench. Might be the same OEM. I tested a few and they were off.

Try the key trick. Just apply torque with the short end and report back. Just using thumb and index finger.

Don't go cranking away with that torque tool, as the results may not be linear or track the way you think it should.

 

[chizelhead]

Hawkins will fit a CA FFT. They look really similar to Talleys. What makes them better?

 

[chizelhead]

That looks like the Fat Wrench. Might be the same OEM. I tested a few and they were off.

Try the key trick. Just apply torque with the short end and report back. Just using thumb and index finger.

Don't go cranking away with that torque tool, as the results may not be linear or track the way you think it should.

Thanks! I will try that.

 

[greyghostnw]

I use a borka torque driver, has less mechanical areas to fail or be out of spec. I would be cautious of a wheeler as it is relying on more parts to be in spec. The goal is to stretch screws but not too much or failure occurs. Personally i would use something similar to NF ultralights. Some i know rely on touch not drivers and just go a 1/4 turn past tight. I personally have not learned the proper feel for 20” pounds etc on scope rings. I have had 17 come loose on a 300 rum. It is good practice to document values set and re check after each outing or time shooting etc…Quit using loctite and always new screws. Also if using anti vibration products or loctite being mindful the torque value will differ than dry. Manufacturers recommended value is a great start but ive found 20” holds with 4 screw NF ultras on 300’s i have. Good luck

 

[4th_point]

The Wheelers can be OK for most, but may need a setting offset to get the correct value. Not sure on long term durability, but most probably don't use an in-lb device enough to matter.

Borka makes good stuff. And rotation past finger tight is standard practice for some applications, but there are factors to consider like the contact surfaces.

Finger tight with the key, and just a freckle more, should hold for most applications.