Savage 110 Ultralight Broken trigger guard

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Oct 23, 2022
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Going to be calling Savage tomorrow for parts to replace my (plastic) trigger guard. Last night I went to remove the bolt in my 110 Ultralight in 6.5 PRC. I pressed the release plunger and trigger at the same time and the trigger guard and plunger literally broke in my hand. Wasn't using extreme pressure or hammering on it, - it just broke. Needless to say I was very surprised and irritated. It broke on both sides of the action screw that sits under the plunger on the barrel end of the trigger guard. Plunger no longer works so can't get the bolt out at all now. Has anyone else had a problem with these and are there 'better' aftermarket parts that will replace the plastic with metal? For what it's worth, I've only used a dedicated 40 inch-pound torque wrench to properly torque the action screws (Savage's spec for that stock/action).
 

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I have the Ultralite in 28 nosler, and I have not experienced any issues after multiple take downs. In my experience though, Savage has excellent customer service so I believe a call to them will provide quick solution. If it wasn't over torqued, I'd surmise that it was just a flaw from the factory. Keep in mind that the rear screw isn't torque spec'd just barely snug.
 
Thanks. I have already planned on calling them in the morning.

Also, thanks for the reminder on the rear trigger guard screw. I know it is not torqued, but simply tight enough to hold the back of the trigger guard on. I appreciate you mentioning it.
 
By the way Kylerjay05, how do you like your 28 Nosler in the ultralight? I’m assuming that is a long action version of the same rifle?
 
By the way Kylerjay05, how do you like your 28 Nosler in the ultralight? I’m assuming that is a long action version of the same rifle?
So far, it's been a real joy to carry and a very accurate rifle. I worked up a load using 160gr accubonds using retumbo powder. Not sure I would ever change. There's obviously sacrifices that were made to save weight but none that weren't worth the weight savings.
 
The exact issue happened to my 300 WSM UL trigger guard. Contacted Savage and they replaced free of charge. Never found a sturdier substitute.
 
That's not terribly uncommon unfortunately. I've never had it happen but I've seen several rifles that did. There are metal trigger guards for top bolt release actions but I'm not aware of any for bottom bolt release actions unfortunately. Savage is usually really good about CS though.
 
After getting excited about the new 7M. M back country, and bought it in the savage, one ten ultra light, got the Appropriate suppressor and a good leupold, scope. And after 3 rounds, the bolt release plastic PO. S broke. I hope savage understands the concept that a chain is only as good as its weakest link. I talked to savage and in an interesting conversation. A lady said she would send me a new trigger guard and bolt release. And I gave her my address. And nothing ever appeared. Even stranger was the fact that she didn't want any money. She didn't need my guns registration number, so I never got anything from savage. So then I went to gunshack and ordered their nice metal trigger guard. However, they did not send me the bolt release. I called back and talked to a gentleman at the shack. And he said he would try to send me a plastic one if he could find one. Have not received anything from them. Good thing I have my old Winchester model 70. 30 -06.
Which I don't think has any plastic parts. What a disappointment and in my mind. Savage, it's just a cheapo gun manufacturer.
 
I’d replace the trigger guard and bottom metal and magazine with metal parts. Slightly heavier, but worlds stronger and doesn’t feel as cheap. I have one savage rifle and replaced everything with metal after I cracked the same part as the op. It’s common.
 
What are you torquing your screws to? I have the UL in 280 AI with a Stockys carbon fiber stock, no issues so far. I don't think I'd replace with a metal set just due to wanting to keep weight down.

I use 50-55 in/lbs on my action screws, always tightening the front screw first. Sometimes the little shim under the rear screw can bounce around when installing, it's important to take a peak at it before putting the screw in. It's not the best system with the blind rear action screw, just take your time and it should last.
 
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