Sanity check first rifle config (elk, lightweight)

[wind gypsy]

Sorry bout your leftyness, that really seems to limit things.

Beyond the CA spotty quality complaints, i really dont like the shape of the ridgeline stock. Maybe the FFT one is stiffer than the standard one? Primarily i just really dont like the grip. Traditionally hunters have only really paid attention to what the grip feels like when shouldering a rifle and not as much about how it supports a perfect trigger press. The ridgeline grip sucks putting your trigger hand in a good position IMO. To put it in archery context, a poor rifle grip to me is like trying to shoot a bow with a grip that is tougher to avoid torqueing or is more sensitive to little input changes.

I thing savage does a pretty good job with their plastic stocks and its nice to have a proof barrel but their janky actions keep me away. But it's not as big of a compromise against a less than smooth m700 clone (CA).

There's a good chance you'd be just fine with either but we tend to focus on the negatives a lot.

6.5 PRC isn't a recoil monster but it aint fun in a light rifle for longer range sessions either. About the same as a 270win. The good thing about handloading is you could run it at top end creedmoor speeds for less recoil and barrel wear although most people go the opposite direction. I think the idea of creedmoor makes sense for your application because it would be cheaper and more enjoyable to practice with. That said, I got my start reloading and learning to shoot rifles better with a lightweight 300wsm, ARs, and then a mid weight 6.5 SAUM. It was a lot more enjoyable when i started shooting smaller cartridges that i concentrated more on spotting impact than fighting a flinch and could shoot a higher volume of with lower cost and not waiting so much for barrels to cool.

Scope wise it seems like you skipped over the SWFA 3-9 and went straight to the lightweight. I'd pick up a 3-9 off the classifieds first.

 

[sdirks3]

There's dozens of dead elk in the 6.5 kill thread, plus more in the 6mm and 223 threads. Many are at ranges 2-3 times your goal, most are smaller cases than the prc.

In your situation, the prc is not necessary, nor is a 7mm. Excellent shot placement is necessary, and that takes practice, which means you have to like shooting the gun, so the minimum recoil combo that produces adequate tissue disruption at the ranges you'll hunt is really the most beneficial way to look at rifle/cartridge/bullet selection. In archery terms, don't start yourself off with an 80# 350 IBO to learn the fundamentals on.

Fair point and a good analogy cuz there's also always people saying "you need at least a 70 lb bow and this massively heavy arrow to kill an elk", when you know that's not true. Always more things to think on - gift and a curse with you roksliders!

 

[sdirks3]

@wind gypsy

Interesting note on the stocks, cuz the savage has that adjustable stock as well (not in the grip angle category, but for cheek and lop). I'd definitely want to handle either before swiping the credit card.

Haha, yeah what are forums for if not picking fly poop out of pepper

On the PRC recoil question - what if I load it light and pick up a good brake until the suppressor gets here? Cheaper than buying a second rifle and should tame the recoil, right? Maybe not down to CM levels but down to nice and shootable?

 

[sdirks3]

Scope wise it seems like you skipped over the SWFA 3-9 and went straight to the lightweight. I'd pick up a 3-9 off the classifieds first.

Good catch! If 9x is enough that thing does look like a really happy middle ground. Decent weight and FFP

 

[wind gypsy]

@wind gypsy

Interesting note on the stocks, cuz the savage has that adjustable stock as well (not in the grip angle category, but for cheek and lop). I'd definitely want to handle either before swiping the credit card.

Haha, yeah what are forums for if not picking fly poop out of pepper

On the PRC recoil question - what if I load it light and pick up a good brake until the suppressor gets here? Cheaper than buying a second rifle and should tame the recoil, right? Maybe not down to CM levels but down to nice and shootable?

How I figure out if I like the grip on a stock at first - focusing on your firing hand, can you both press the stock square back into your shoulder and consistently press the trigger straight back in the direction of where the stock is contacting your shoulder without disturbing the crosshairs or rifle's point of aim? Does it happen naturally or are there competing tensions in your hand that make you really focus and strain a bit to make it happen? You do not want to wrap your thumb around the grip, either rest on top of back of grip or keep on the side with the rest of your hand. With traditional sporter stocks with longer/straighter grips like the CA it's tough to do all of that without competing tensions in your hand.

I definitely like the idea of spending a lot of time with one rifle. The light rifle is going to be tougher to shoot regardless. Recoil with mild loads with a brake wont be bad at all, just double up with plugs/muffs because the concussion with an effective brake is just as likely to cause flinching as recoil IMO.

 

[sdirks3]

@wind gypsy

Good explanation! I'll give it a try with my shotgun tonight to see if I can feel what you're talking about

Dang it all - so the brake seems like it's a wash for a new shooter. I'll spare everyone my "suppressors should be on the shelves next to the scopes" rant, but it really seems like this would be a moot point if I could have that in my hands when I got the rifle

 

[waldo9190]

270 winchester with a 3-15 SWFA will do everything you need it to....and more...

 

[MHWASH]

I really suggest skipping the brake. I’ve used several, and even though you can reduce the noise, I think it’s the concussion that gets me. I’ve had one on a couple of 300 mags and a 6.5 CM target rifle.

 

[kickemall]

Theres definitely a little truth to the CA crap shoot. I got one in 6.5 prc and had to send it back after the first two shots because of the bolt locking up. Got it back within two weeks and now shoots great.
I've had all the scopes you mention and while I really like them all for the type of hunting you're describing I don't know that I'm a fan. All those reticles, unless illuminated, are hard to see in low light conditions on low power for me. I'd recommend a NIghtforce NXS 2.5-10 which is SFP. Lightweight and proven dependable. Picking a gun and scope is a rabbit hole so handle and shoot as many as you can and good luck.

 

[Taudisio]

And for every horror story on CA there's people saying this too! Not making the decision easy on me guys haha

Ha I said this same exact thing to myself while buying my CA! I mean flip a coin I suppose! Never again for me, I lost $500 and 10 weeks of rifle use. I gave you my experiences, and I wish you the best of luck with whichever route you go. The savage is far from perfect, but it has performed for me.

 

[sdirks3]

Theres definitely a little truth to the CA crap shoot. I got one in 6.5 prc and had to send it back after the first two shots because of the bolt locking up. Got it back within two weeks and now shoots great.
I've had all the scopes you mention and while I really like them all for the type of hunting you're describing I don't know that I'm a fan. All those reticles, unless illuminated, are hard to see in low light conditions on low power for me. I'd recommend a NIghtforce NXS 2.5-10 which is SFP. Lightweight and proven dependable. Picking a gun and scope is a rabbit hole so handle and shoot as many as you can and good luck.

Could definitely see the illuminated reticle being nice. That's just a hefty chunk of change for it. But from what I've read NF is a buy it for life scope

 

[sdirks3]

Ha I said this same exact thing to myself while buying my CA! I mean flip a coin I suppose! Never again for me, I lost $500 and 10 weeks of rifle use. I gave you my experiences, and I wish you the best of luck with whichever route you go. The savage is far from perfect, but it has performed for me.

I will say, the savage complaints are all "action is a little rough" or "stock is a little loose", not "rifle was fundamentally flawed and had to be repaired"

 

[Taudisio]

I will say, the savage complaints are all "action is a little rough" or "stock is a little loose", not "rifle was fundamentally flawed and had to be repaired"

Ain’t that the truth. I was really bummed about it because they do such a good job making it feel and look great. Where are you located?

 

[sdirks3]

@Taudisio

Colorado Springs

It's unfortunate with guns because you of course can't return them after your fire them to verify they shoot well

 

[Taudisio]

Dang. Well I’ll cross my fingers for you if you go the CA route. You are jumping into the deeper end of the pool, but coming from archery, you should be fine with a light rifle. Just like a heavier bow is easier to hold steady than a light one-same happens with rifles. A little technique and practice and you’ll be fine. Good luck out there!

 

[BAKPAKR]

Scope wise it seems like you skipped over the SWFA 3-9 and went straight to the lightweight. I'd pick up a 3-9 off the classifieds first.

^^This^^

 

[TheHammer]

Definitely still weighing both options, and that's some compelling testimony for the savage! On paper the CA just has a lot going for it...

The weight difference is a nice to have, but honestly it irks me that savage stuck with a 24" barrel on there when they know that threading makes me want to strap a can on it! That would put my overall barrel length at 32" for the savage vs 28 for the CA. But maybe I'm making too much of that?

One other question for you since you have experience with the savage - is the 2 rnd mag limiting? Or not a big deal?

Kinda pushed me to owning another UL…. Depending how the can mounts it might not add as much as you think.. my 24” 300wm with an omega (just like this one) is barely 29”. This one is barely 26.75”. Also had qc ca issues…I dumped it and went to a UL. Much happier. Never been let down by any of my 110s.

 

[Samson7x]

I will say, the savage complaints are all "action is a little rough" or "stock is a little loose", not "rifle was fundamentally flawed and had to be repaired"

Well, savage sample size of 1 but I couldn't get one to shoot better than 3". Took a trip to savage for a rebarrel with the same result. Sold it. Wasted lots of $ in ammo trying to get it to shoot. Action sucks, not a fan of the bladed accutrigger either, mediocre stock, and terrible accuracy. It was a major lose, won't own one again.

 

[wind gypsy]

I will say, the savage complaints are all "action is a little rough" or "stock is a little loose", not "rifle was fundamentally flawed and had to be repaired"

Being a little rough doesn't matter much if you're only shooting 1 shot but they have long been prone to extraction/ejection issues too.

I used to be of the mind that as long as the action gets the round chambered and goes bang, i'd rather dump money into the barrel (accuracy) and stock (fit - ease of shooting) but after your guns multiply and you have ones that run slick as shit the rough ones tend to turn a guy off more. As a one gun setup, you probably wouldn't be bothered by a little action roughness as long as it cycles reliably. Savages aren't immune from shitty chambers like folks have discussed with CA either. I'd hope that they're a little more careful about it on the proof blanks though.

 

[sdirks3]

Dang. Well I’ll cross my fingers for you if you go the CA route. You are jumping into the deeper end of the pool, but coming from archery, you should be fine with a light rifle. Just like a heavier bow is easier to hold steady than a light one-same happens with rifles. A little technique and practice and you’ll be fine. Good luck out there!

Thanks man! I'll update the post when I pull the proverbial trigger