- Thread Starter
- #61
That's unfortunate, curious what model and barrel? My 110 axis in 7-08 with Barnes 120 ttsx is by far the most accurate rifle I own. I bought it when I was dead broke for like $400. The action on that gun is sloppy and I put in a new trigger, but I love that cheap little gun. Very ammo picky and I almost gave up on it early. I wouldn't recommend buying one over other options, but it is a shooter. I either pack that or my 110 bear hunter in 375 Ruger. That gun has a very smooth action and I personally like the accutrigger. They have both been fantastic on a budget and have killed a zoo worth of animals. I'm currently waiting somewhat impatiently to pick up a 110UL with the proof barrel in 7 PRC for my wife's moose gun.
Just out of curiosity, did you find all 3?6.5 prc is fine, just dont shoot the eldx bullets out of it. I have shot 3 elk with those bullets now and all left zero blood trail and even with double lung shots the elk didnt go down for 100 +/- yards.
This is precisely what I was alluding to. Easy button with multiple options for down the road.Or, hows this for an idea.. Buy left handed tikka 6.5 creed. Shoot it, if you decide you think 200 more FPS is gonna make you happy, you have options.
If you're happy with that barrel, you could just ream it out to 6.5x284 which is the same damn thing performance wise as a PRC just has less factory ammo support and doesn't play well with a short action (which is easily mitigated in a tikka).
Or pick up a takeoff 6.5 PRC barrel and trade or source a magnum bolt (might be tougher for lefties) but I bet you could call tikka and say you lost your bolt and buy one if you cant find a trade.
Or just pay someone to spin up a barrel that's exactly what you want. a PBB pre-fit plus tikka purchase would still be cheaper than the two guns OP is looking at.
If tikka makes 6.5x55 in leftys, there's another option that splits creedmoor/prc difference.
Lots of flexibility. All i like better than a CA or Savage, but either of them would probably work as well.
I was also going to mention the SHV 3-10. I have multiple and I have zero issues with MOA sized targets waaay further than I’d ever hunt. 800 yards on 10x is no issue for MY eyes. I have the MOAR reticle FWIW. 10x has not been a handicap.For a first time rifle owner, I think your making a mistake going real light weight. Light weight rigs are hard to shoot accurately without lots of practice, which may be limiting with the availability of 6.5 Prc ammo. A light weight gun can promote flinching. For what your describing especially with say a 400 yard limit, I'd grab a Tikka T3 lite in 7mm-08, 270 or 6.5 CM. Then when your ready have the barrel cut down and threaded.
For a scope, there is no real advantage to go any higher than 15x, especially at the ranges you are talking about. I consistantly make hits on a 10x10 plate at 500 yards with my 10x scope. The SWFA 3-9, NF NXS 2.5-10, or the NF SVH 3-10 would all be perfect for said rifle.
Most of the CA horror stories are hearsay or they had a “buddy”…lol. We own over a dozen of them and they all shoot. If their are any problems CAs customer service was awesome the 1 time I had to use it and they have an accuracy guarantee, so super low risk.And for every horror story on CA there's people saying this too! Not making the decision easy on me guys haha
Yeah, I've been listening to tons of podcasts on the subject. Really good episodes in "Backcountry Hunting" breaking down bullet selection. That's actually another motivator for getting into hand loading - giving me better odds on being able to tune up a load with the bullets I want to use.
I hate heavy rifles. Only you can determine what “heavy” is. A muzzle brake or a suppressor will knock down the recoil numbers. 8 pounds is a good, balanced hunting weight (not featherweight) to me. You could get a million different combinations which is a fun thing. Some guys are going to give you a very sensible suggestion from their experience of being burned in the past. Some will suggest you to get something that you may love or absolutely hate and change after the first day on the range. Get your hands on rifles, keep crunching numbers for you and your confidence alone. Talk to friends who shoot and see if you can go to range day (offer money for ammo you shoot!) and see if you find something you like. Everyone here can only suggest what they have used and liked vs not liked. Your perfect rifle could be something off the wall different that few have tried.Alrighty, some interesting numbers for you. Assuming no suppression (since the ATF will have that in jail for who knows how long), here are some recoil numbers for my front running options (all run using nosler load data for consistency):
6.5 CM, 8 lb rifle, 120 grain: 11 ft lbs
6.5 CM, 8 lb rifle, 150 grain: 13.7 ft lbs
280 AI, 10.5 lb rifle, 120 grain: 14.8 ft lbs
280 AI, 10.5 lb rifle, 150 grain: 15.9 ft lbs
280 AI, 10.5 lb rifle, 185 grain: 17.6 ft lbs
6.5 PRC, 8 lb rifle, 120 grain: 20 ft lbs
6.5 PRC, 8 lb rifle, 150 grain: 21.8 ft lbs
Unsurprisingly the CM comes out ahead even in the featherweight rifle. What did surprise me is that the 280 AI is dang close in terms of recoil if I up the rifle weight (using the same attachments on the savage timberline available used for cheap). I've been reading up on rifle weight and recoil and it seems that even leaving recoil aside some folks advocate a ~10 lb rifle just for added stability (good ol' inertia), but what are all of your thoughts seeing the numbers laid out there? Light rifle in a light cartridge? Cool cartridge in a heavier rifle? Or the rokslide classic tikka and have a gunsmith thread it when the silencer comes through?
Most of the CA horror stories are hearsay or they had a “buddy”…lol. We own over a dozen of them and they all shoot. If their are any problems CAs customer service was awesome the 1 time I had to use it and they have an accuracy guarantee, so super low risk.
I would rather the lighter weight rifle, with more readily available ammunition, that recoils less. a rifle that is both more pleasant to shoot, and more pleasant to carry will lead to more practice with it.what are all of your thoughts seeing the numbers laid out there? Light rifle in a light cartridge? Cool cartridge in a heavier rifle? Or the rokslide classic tikka and have a gunsmith thread it when the silencer comes through?
That's where my gut is leaning, but then again my gut almost walked me into a sub 8 lb 7 PRC early on so I figured I'd get some other opinions lolI would rather the lighter weight rifle, with more readily available ammunition, that recoils less. a rifle that is both more pleasant to shoot, and more pleasant to carry will lead to more practice with it.
If that’s what YOU want then get it. Muzzle brake it until your suppressor shows up. Absolutely nothing wrong with the weight/caliber. I have an 8 pound 30 nosler being put together.That's where my gut is leaning, but then again my gut almost walked me into a sub 8 lb 7 PRC early on so I figured I'd get some other opinions lol