Day job, kids activities, and also busy on a intensive personal projectI wish you were still sewing, or I had some semblance of skills (I don’t). I have a pack bag roughed out in my mind.
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Day job, kids activities, and also busy on a intensive personal projectI wish you were still sewing, or I had some semblance of skills (I don’t). I have a pack bag roughed out in my mind.
Hey, just some food for thought. I own a 100% wool knit sweater that I was wearing almost every day of this course generally over a 150gsm merino base; a few of the below zero days I wore my 240gsm base long sleeve and the wool knit. I also own a Pnuma Gunnison 1/4 zip that is 300gsm merino. I can say with certainty that I stay warmer in the wool knit than I do the Gunnison. The exception to this is only with wind. The Gunnison being a tighter weave I feel blocks wind slightly better, but the trade off is that it doesn’t breathe as well with exertion as the wool knit because of the weave. I also would add that if you’re in a scenario with a high chance of being wet, wool knit and merino both are going to be tough to dry out. Check out @bikinitoboots original rewarming drill or the one I posted after the S2H course where I was wearing my wool knit sweater for the rewarming drill we did. Everything has its trade offs and I think both pieces could have a place in someone’s kit, but I wouldn’t give up my wool knit for anything.How does a wool or wool blend commando sweater compare to something like a first lite furnace or other 300+ mid layer merino shirt/zip/hoodie
“Safeties get used”
Would it be possible to explain S2H safety use protocol in more detail with a tikka action? I don’t have a 3 position safety but someone with one may benefit from an explanation of the difference if any.
From hiking with gun in pack to first shot to moving position for follow up shot to gun back in the pack. What is the S2H safety use protocol?
I’d like to start building a better habit around my use of the safety. Thanks in advance for info that can be shared.
Can cut out a whole step on both sides with a fixed 6x!That’s helpful. Thanks.
Jay from Mindful Hunter shared the
Turret- zoom- safety- trigger- safety- zoom- turret
Seems obvious. But building that habit is something I need to reinforce.
I switch back and forth from a Maven to a 6x and still tap the power area as tho its there or I changed the parallax every time.Can cut out a whole step on both sides with a fixed 6x!
Or just leave your variable power scopes on 6-8X and 200 yards for parallax like I do and rock onCan cut out a whole step on both sides with a fixed 6x!
Also extremely viable.Or just leave your variable power scopes on 6-8X and 200 yards for parallax like I do and rock on![]()
@Formidilosus, I'm replying to this old thread because I have been looking for a pair of binoculars with a mil reticle. I have seen you complain in several places about how no one seems to market such a useful product that does not clutter things up.No- mil reticles in binos suck right now. Obscuring your entire FOV with a reticle is counterproductive. An “L” shaped reticle in the lower left of the FOV would be a very good thing.
@Formidilosus, I'm replying to this old thread because I have been looking for a pair of binoculars with a mil reticle. I have seen you complain in several places about how no one seems to market such a useful product that does not clutter things up.
My search has lead me back to SWFA. I'm curious your thoughts on these:
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SWFA SS 12x32 BR Binocular With Reticle
The SS 12x32 BR binocular is all about detail. Both the incredible amount of detail it delivers to the eye and the incredible amount of attention to detail it took to bring this compact high quality 12x binocular to the market. With the SWFA SS 12x32 BR no corners were cut and no attention was...swfa.com
They do have the reticle in the lower left as you recommend. But I don't see a tripod mounting bracket (I would need to get an adapter) and they are only 12x. I don't have enough experience with such things to determine if 12x would be adequate for spotting rifle impacts and providing corrections out to about 900 yards (and if they worked out to 600 that would be just fine). I plan to use them in lieu of a spotting scope as we walk from shooting point to shooting point on my farm (I have set up target arrays at various points around my farm and I "still hunt" from one to the next).
Is trying to use a pair of binoculars for this a bad idea? Should I just settle for having to get a spotting scope?
Binoculars are excellent for spotting. Unfortunately those lack the glass quality and objective diameter to be the answer.