RS 1.2 Top Turret Level?

Silver Wings

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 5, 2023
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While practicing a couple days ago I was going back and forth between the UM level mounted on the integral rail on a Tikka and the reticle. My perception of plumb and the bubble level were way off. I wrote it off to optical illusion and shot trusting the level, but made a note to check when I got home. This spot only goes to 390 yards so I couldn’t check at distance. I had no misses with about a 6 mph full value wind, so that kind of confirmed my illusion theory…at least in my mind.
Now today in the shop I set the rifle up with the reticle focused on a known vertical line and tried to check the scope for level using the top turret and top of the receiver. I used the UM level and 2 sets of Wheeler levels. One set is cheap plastic and other is less cheap aluminum. I calibrated them using a decent 2’ level I have…meaning I could eyeball compensate for the plastic one’s inaccuracy and adjusted the aluminum one. Only to find they were all over the place when put on the rifle. They were all close one way or the other but no combination of the different levels really corroborated the info from each other.
Which finally brings me to my question…is the top turret on the RS 1.2, in mils, known to be dead nuts to the reticle? At least with this information I can take one of the confounding factors out of my equation full of crappy levels.
If you made it this far I appreciate your attention and input.
 
U should level off top of action with a level that has been verified( not all bubble levels are correct), then put a corresponding one to match clamped on the barrel. Now install the scope and level off the underside on the scope( it's flat and usually machined perfect) with a wedge level kit. Once u have done this, u can check how true the recticle is compared to the scope. With the known vertical line or a string on a plum bob. Leveling off the top of the turret is not the way as sometimes they are off a whisper.

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U should level off top of action with a level that has been verified( not all bubble levels are correct) then put a corresponding one to match clamped on the barrel. Now install the scope level off the underside on the scope( its flat and usually machined perfect) with a wedge level kit. Once u have done this u can check how true the recticle is compared to the scope. With the known vertical line or a string on a plum bob. Leveling off the top of the turret is not the way as sometimes the are off a whisper.

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk
When I installed the scope I used a level, out of the box Wheeler, and then clamped another to the barrel. Then rotated the scope in the rings to line up with a known vertical line. Then locked it down when I was confident both axis were there. Today I was hoping to just line up on my vertical line and drop a level on top of the turret for quick confirmation, because I can’t fit my level between the scope and the receiver. I guess if I really want to know I need to remount the scope with my recently “calibrated” levels.
 
I’m sure there are a few methods out there for this.

If you’re going to use the UM level in the field, then put that on. Twist the scope in the rings using your plumb line as a reference, while keeping the rifle level using the UM level.

Doesn’t really matter if things look/feel a little off, or are in fact not perfectly level. It matters that your reticle is level, and the bubble while in the field will help you verify that.

Some smart guys have probably done the math already on how much reticle cant will affect misses..not astronomical at most hunting distances for a little cant here and there. But throw in some weird side hills and terrain and it is not easy for your brain to actually level the reticle correctly, which the bubble helps with.

Right or wrong I’m probably not looking at my level inside of 400 yards.
 
Level off the cap is probably close but what matters is the actual reticle itself, assuming the scope tracks straight up and down (can’t see how it wouldn’t)
 
I’m sure there are a few methods out there for this.

If you’re going to use the UM level in the field, then put that on. Twist the scope in the rings using your plumb line as a reference, while keeping the rifle level using the UM level.

Doesn’t really matter if things look/feel a little off, or are in fact not perfectly level. It matters that your reticle is level, and the bubble while in the field will help you verify that.

Some smart guys have probably done the math already on how much reticle cant will affect misses..not astronomical at most hunting distances for a little cant here and there. But throw in some weird side hills and terrain and it is not easy for your brain to actually level the reticle correctly, which the bubble helps with.

Right or wrong I’m probably not looking at my level inside of 400 yards.
I’m sure that would work, but I need to know in my mind that things are actually dead nuts.
I don’t see a need to reference the level under 400 either, but just wanted to include it in my practice session as a reminder that it’s there if needed. The thing that got me was shooting off a flat deck, across flat ground and for whatever reason my brain put a bunch of cant on the reticle. I kept going back and forth between the level and the reticle…thinking there’s just no way. Was just hoping to drop a level on top of the turret so it would soothe my brain after that last session.
 
Don't reference the scope body or the turret

Lock the rifle in a vise with the UM level showing true level

Keeping UM level level, use the flashlight method and check if the scope reticle lines up with a plumb line on a far wall. If it doesn't line up, adjust the scope
 
The thing that got me was shooting off a flat deck, across flat ground and for whatever reason my brain put a bunch of cant on the reticle. I kept going back and forth between the level and the reticle…thinking there’s just no way.
Is your scope mounted really low? Kind of sounds like what happens when guys have to tilt their head a lot to see through their scope.
 
I use the Holland "Perfect Every Time" scope mounting fixture to mount all my scopes.

Jay

Mount here...

Discussion on the mount here...
 
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