RokStok

The tripod puts you in a box.

I was carrying mine with the rifle in it like a hobo bindle for a while.

Setting up to shoot supported off the pack and sticks faster and you don't lose much stability and you have plenty of time adjust your position before you start calling.
 
The tripod puts you in a box.

I was carrying mine with the rifle in it like a hobo bindle for a while.

Just making it work.

Supported shooting off the pack and sticks is way faster and you don't lose much stability when its practiced and you have plenty of time adjust it all around if you're calling.
I dont like tripods for calling, but im also not a night hunter. I can get on a coyote a lot faster with a set of shooting sticks. I know the night guys like tripods so they can stand up while calling.
 
The tripod puts you in a box.

I was carrying mine with the rifle in it like a hobo bindle for a while.

Just making it work.

Supported shooting off the pack and sticks is way faster and you don't lose much stability when its practiced and you have plenty of time adjust it all around if you're calling.
Shooting off a pack and sticks at night thermal hunting is faster than standing with your gun already mounted on a tripod?
 
I always stand behind my tripod when night hunting. The mini arca plates next to magwell from srs have been great for me. I'm probably leaning towards a rokstock at this point to keep everything uniform among all my tikkas. Might have to try the tac table/bag method, even though my dumb self will probably end up dumping the rifle overboard at night not being clipped in
 
I always stand behind my tripod when night hunting. The mini arca plates next to magwell from srs have been great for me. I'm probably leaning towards a rokstock at this point to keep everything uniform among all my tikkas. Might have to try the tac table/bag method, even though my dumb self will probably end up dumping the rifle overboard at night not being clipped in
Arca rail near the magwell for sure if it were me. I'll scan nearly 360 degrees around me with the monocular on a stand. No chance I'm leaving a loaded rifle on a tac table and bag unsecured.
 
I'll answer in a general sense for everyone's benefit.

A poly finish is ON the wood.
An oil finish is IN the wood.

A poly finish builds up in the pores and adheres to the wood but can come off for different reasons.

A good oil finish soaks into the fibers of the wood and oil residue/fine wood particles fill the pores to create the finish. The oil can be pulled out of the wood some but can't come off completely unless wood is removed.

my finish

After stippling, rail hardware and lightening the butt, the whole stock is coated with a polymer that soaks in like oil and cures. That is sanded back and then the finish coat begins. The finish is applied and sanded as needed until the pores are full and several full coats on top of that.
The intent is the entire stock is physically encapsulated against moisture.

No maintenance is needed beyond how you would treat the metal parts. Just use it!

Large scratches or dents that puncture the finish or corner abrasions may cause the finish to flake eventually like any finish coat if oil or water repeatedly soaks in under the finish.

A small bottle of Tru-oil is pretty cheap and very similar to the finish I use.
View attachment 982157
This can be applied to the scratch with a Q-tip to seal it against moisture. Wipe the excess off around the area. If it leaves a tacky spot, that can be polished off with a denim scrap.

If needed, I can refinish the front half or back half of a Rokstok, the grip is a good place to break the work.

For a oil finish, wipe it down with a cotton rag and a little alcohol. go light on the alcohol because it will pull the oil out of the wood.
Then rub in a coat or two of oil.

If the oil is thinned with mineral spirits, it will pull into the wood a little more. I rub on a "wet" coat and let it sit over night, rub it in the next day and it's good.
By wet, I mean looks wet, not running down the stock.

Hope that helps.
Lightening the butt stock ? Assuming that means drilling out some material and plugging the holes under the recoil pad?
 
Are the RokStocks rigid enough that you can wrap the sling around your forearm for stabilization without causing a POI shift? I realize some of that will have to do with clearances in the channel around the barrel and there be unique to each rifle.

I gotta get a barrel on my tikka with the RokStock before I can test it out...
 
Are the RokStocks rigid enough that you can wrap the sling around your forearm for stabilization without causing a POI shift? I realize some of that will have to do with clearances in the channel around the barrel and there be unique to each rifle.

I gotta get a barrel on my tikka with the RokStock before I can test it out...
Oh yeah. Gripping the barrel and fore end with one hand, it takes all my strength to move the thing 1/8". Your barrel should be free-floating in the channel, so even if you do manage to bend the stock any in the fore end, I can't think of a way that it could affect your POI.
 
Pretty sure that Manners incorporated the hinge into the mini chassis for this model
They did. I haven’t found an acceptable hinge yet for a standard stock. Tons of AR style out there but none that I’ve found yet to retrofit a std stock. If someone finds a lead post it up.

I’ve pondered on a design but realistically I don’t have the time to make one.

Would a 3D printed version be strong enough?
As far as a plastic or polymer I doubt it. Metal printed yes but I don’t know anyone with one yet.
 
Any thoughts on where to find something similar? I was going to try a hidden hinge but then couldn’t figure out the latching side of things.

Would a 3D printed version be strong enough?
That hinge would need to be bomb proof with a strong lock up. Can you imagine having a floppy/busted in half stock after taking a fall on a hunt? If we could get a folding RokStock that would be super awesome though.
 
So, back to the idea of a folding Rokstock. Anybody know where I could get something like this to give it a try?

View attachment 984243

This comes from the manners pro folder.
Here is a picatinny folding mechanism from Samson mfg.

The way I see it, you
1. lay out the stock, and decide where you want to make the cut. Looks like manners decided right before the pistol grip was their spot
2. Epoxy a 1913 rail with anchor screws into the forward section
3. Epoxy a female-threaded insert into the rear section.
4. Attach the Samson folding mechanism at the picatinny forward section. Then bolt the butt stock section to the rear folding mechanism with a cross bolt.
IMG_0610.png
 
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