I'll answer in a general sense for everyone's benefit.
A poly finish is ON the wood.
An oil finish is IN the wood.
A poly finish builds up in the pores and adheres to the wood but can come off for different reasons.
A good oil finish soaks into the fibers of the wood and oil residue/fine wood particles fill the pores to create the finish. The oil can be pulled out of the wood some but can't come off completely unless wood is removed.
my finish
After stippling, rail hardware and lightening the butt, the whole stock is coated with a polymer that soaks in like oil and cures. That is sanded back and then the finish coat begins. The finish is applied and sanded as needed until the pores are full and several full coats on top of that.
The intent is the entire stock is physically encapsulated against moisture.
No maintenance is needed beyond how you would treat the metal parts. Just use it!
Large scratches or dents that puncture the finish or corner abrasions may cause the finish to flake eventually like any finish coat if oil or water repeatedly soaks in under the finish.
A small bottle of Tru-oil is pretty cheap and very similar to the finish I use.
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This can be applied to the scratch with a Q-tip to seal it against moisture. Wipe the excess off around the area. If it leaves a tacky spot, that can be polished off with a denim scrap.
If needed, I can refinish the front half or back half of a Rokstok, the grip is a good place to break the work.
For a oil finish, wipe it down with a cotton rag and a little alcohol. go light on the alcohol because it will pull the oil out of the wood.
Then rub in a coat or two of oil.
If the oil is thinned with mineral spirits, it will pull into the wood a little more. I rub on a "wet" coat and let it sit over night, rub it in the next day and it's good.
By wet, I mean looks wet, not running down the stock.
Hope that helps.