RokStok

[wyosam]

I cant speak for Form ,but modern rifles with floated barrels and correct bedding don't have moisture/ poi issues in my experience.

I've never met anyone that could actually prove its a thing.

I have been on some wood handled rifles over the years, both with weather and physical hits. Only issues have been horse wreck related. I’ve got one tikka walnut stock in the rotation now (on my main moose rifle no less). It’s bedded, with pillars, opened up for lots of barrel clearance, and resealed. Zero concerns about the wood. One of these days I’ll spring for a wood RS lite.

 

[TimberHunter]

I cant speak for Form ,but modern rifles with floated barrels and correct bedding don't have moisture/ poi issues in my experience.

I've never met anyone that could actually prove its a thing.

Appreciate it, was going to send you a PM but didn’t want to double up on asking the question

When it comes to bedding, does a factory tikka wood stock need it, where the plastic tikka stocks don’t?


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[longrangelead]

Appreciate it, was going to send you a PM but didn’t want to double up on asking the question

When it comes to bedding, does a factory tikka wood stock need it, where the plastic tikka stocks don’t?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've never had bedding make it worse.
I have had a few where it didn't make it better...

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Appreciate it, was going to send you a PM but didn’t want to double up on asking the question

When it comes to bedding, does a factory tikka wood stock need it, where the plastic tikka stocks don’t?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The plastic stocks and factory "wood" stocks both don't require bedding. There is the same recoil lug channel as the plastic stock and the lug is in there with good tolerance. Won't hurt anything to bed it for long term, heavy use though.

 

[Dobermann]

Not Rokstoks, but remember you must treat wood with care, love and respect. They are fragile.

@Formidilosus: the photo isn't loading in this reply, but what jacket is that in the selfie - and is it any good? Cheers!

 

[benconfused]

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What kind of wood is the one of the left with striping, or has that just been in water or something?

 

[benconfused]

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Not Rokstoks, but remember you must treat wood with care, love and respect. They are fragile.

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And lots and lots more.

What all did you guys hunt on this trip to AK?

 

[TOLeary]

I'll answer in a general sense for everyone's benefit.

A poly finish is ON the wood.
An oil finish is IN the wood.

A poly finish builds up in the pores and adheres to the wood but can come off for different reasons.

A good oil finish soaks into the fibers of the wood and oil residue/fine wood particles fill the pores to create the finish. The oil can be pulled out of the wood some but can't come off completely unless wood is removed.

my finish

After stippling, rail hardware and lightening the butt, the whole stock is coated with a polymer that soaks in like oil and cures. That is sanded back and then the finish coat begins. The finish is applied and sanded as needed until the pores are full and several full coats on top of that.
The intent is the entire stock is physically encapsulated against moisture.

No maintenance is needed beyond how you would treat the metal parts. Just use it!

Large scratches or dents that puncture the finish or corner abrasions may cause the finish to flake eventually like any finish coat if oil or water repeatedly soaks in under the finish.

A small bottle of Tru-oil is pretty cheap and very similar to the finish I use.
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This can be applied to the scratch with a Q-tip to seal it against moisture. Wipe the excess off around the area. If it leaves a tacky spot, that can be polished off with a denim scrap.

If needed, I can refinish the front half or back half of a Rokstok, the grip is a good place to break the work.

For a oil finish, wipe it down with a cotton rag and a little alcohol. go light on the alcohol because it will pull the oil out of the wood.
Then rub in a coat or two of oil.

If the oil is thinned with mineral spirits, it will pull into the wood a little more. I rub on a "wet" coat and let it sit over night, rub it in the next day and it's good.
By wet, I mean looks wet, not running down the stock.

Hope that helps.

do you sand to a high grit after first finish application to close pores to protect against moisture as well? Thoughts on this?

 

[TOLeary]

Just use them. I do not believe you could find anyone using modern wood stock harsher than I do. I treat them exactly like any other stock- which is to say I don’t give a flip about them.

Do you not worry about the wooden rokstocks due to the large barrel clearance? Swelling anywhere else wouldn’t cause any function or accuracy issues - is that the thought?