Rokstok review thread

[lak2004]

So of my three micrometers not a one has a scale that goes to the end. That’s a tricky spot for such a precise measurement. How did you measure? I used a square but mm was the smallest measurement. It’s too hard to eyeball. It’s right at about 2.4-2.6mm which 2.4 would be in spec but it’s real close that’s for sure. I’m not pulling that thing without damaging the lug. Did you use some leather or how did you do it exactly? Mine is welded tight.

Caliper

 

[PLhunter]

Caliper

I don’t know how I’m not figuring this out but I can’t figure out how to get any caliper’s I have into there and flush without ending up measuring with an angle.

 

[Brandon.miller.4]

Use the bottom of the caliper. When you open the jaws a small portion should protrude from the "handle" read the measurement from normal location.

 

[PLhunter]

Caliper

lol, duh lightbulb just finally lit up

 

[lak2004]

End of your caliper

 

[PLhunter]

Use the bottom of the caliper. When you open the jaws a small portion should protrude from the "handle" read the measurement from normal location.

Yup somehow never used that feature and it just clicked. .0925, so that would explain the smashed play dough with it being so close.

 

[PLhunter]

Maybe I’m being too picky at this point. Anyone else have a change in stock barrel separation when torquing down or loosening the front action screw? It was bad enough before I removed the pressure points seen in the prior photos that a finger stuck in the gap to feel the movement would be pinched to the point of pain when loosening the front action screw. Now it’s subtly visible and can be felt but couldn’t pinch. The gap is tightening when I loosen the front action screw. Which leads me to believe my contact point is forward of the front action screw.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Maybe I’m being too picky at this point. Anyone else have a change in stock barrel separation when torquing down or loosening the front action screw? It was bad enough before I removed the pressure points seen in the prior photos that a finger stuck in the gap to feel the movement would be pinched to the point of pain when loosening the front action screw. Now it’s subtly visible and can be felt but couldn’t pinch. The gap is tightening when I loosen the front action screw. Which leads me to believe my contact point is forward of the front action screw.

Are you using the long screw in the front instead of the back? haha.

You should NOT see the barreled action rising as you tighten and lowering as you loosen, the only time I've seen that happen is when the recoil lug slot in the action isn't directly over the lug.

 

[PLhunter]

Are you using the long screw in the front instead of the back? haha.

You should NOT see the barreled action rising as you tighten and lowering as you loosen, the only time I've seen that happen is when the recoil lug slot in the action isn't directly over the lug.

Ha nope but after my caliper brain fart it doesn’t hurt to ask. I’m definitely over the lug I can feel it set in and the multiple play dough test I’ve done confirm it. This is driving me crazy. With the super tight tolerance with the caliper and play dough results it’s possible I guess that I’m still hitting the lug.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

A 4th example here…

It should be sunk down but you should not see a large gap increasing in the front as you tourque. More dremmel work needed?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Also. Do you have your factory recoil lug to try? Pull the UM unit out by heating and tapping side to side and then fine point tipped good vice grips. Tap in the factory lug and try it.

If you don’t have the factory I can send you one of mine I have a few laying around.

 

[PLhunter]

Also. Do you have your factory recoil lug to try? Pull the UM unit out by heating and tapping side to side and then fine point tipped good vice grips. Tap in the factory lug and try it.

If you don’t have the factory I can send you one of mine I have a few laying around.

I do have mine and thanks for the offer. The UM recoil lug isn’t coming out without damaging the stock. I heated and used vice grips and ended up chipping the lug . ZERO movement in any vector. Tapping it side to side doesn’t budge it. The factory lug came out easily with moderate pressure. I used a more accurate dial micrometer and it does appear to be a touch proud at about .095. More test with puddy confirm that it’s contacting as well.

 

[atmat]

I heated and used vice grips and ended up chipping the lug .

Dang haha.

 

[PLhunter]

Dang haha.

Yeah I think she’s with the stock until the stock is broken in half. I think my jokes on the main thread may have gotten me in trouble. Real surprised to not have heard from them. They were real quick with comms until recently.

 

[Dobermann]

Sorry I'm late, I don't like it! You don't see a comb shape like this on any military sniper rifle. Recoil will bring the shooter's face/check off the stock, nothing for quick follow-up shots. Good for the recoil sensitive though.

This might have been addressed in the intervening 5 pages ... but there's at least one rifle that has been used by a serving military that has a negative comb ...

Also tagging @gbflyer and @BBob for their information.

 

[Loco4dux]

You guys using taller rings with the rokstok? Thinking about switching out my lows for some taller to keep my head position more nuetral.

 

[NSI]

You guys using taller rings with the rokstok? Thinking about switching out my lows for some taller to keep my head position more nuetral.

Some like the UM lows, some like mediums. Face shape and LOP (given comb slope) are big factors. I like the mediums, but I'm a Unity guy so take that with 2 grains of salt.

-J

 

[Jon Boy]

Anyone have opposite results as to what everyone else is experiencing? I have to believe I’m doing something wrong. I dropped a scoped barreled action into a rock stock that was very comfortable in a factory stock without adjusting anything via the rings and scope. I’m struggling with head position to get the right site picture while being comfortable, which results in the butt high on my shoulder pocket and the recoil seems excessive- braked 6.5 cm- but I haven’t compared it to the factory stock. Did you guys move your scope forward or backwards, or height of rings to gain a comfortable position? T084 rings with a shv 2.5-10. I’m 5’8 with a normal wing span and can’t imagine it’s a LOP issue. Love the trigger reach. Also love the current LOP as it doesn’t seem to catch on jackets when I run it with my safari sling. I’ve been known to run a pack for years that wasn’t adjusted right so I could see myself doing something wrong…

 

[Formidilosus]

Anyone have opposite results as to what everyone else is experiencing? I have to believe I’m doing something wrong. I dropped a scoped barreled action into a rock stock that was very comfortable in a factory stock without adjusting anything via the rings and scope. I’m struggling with head position to get the right site picture while being comfortable, which results in the butt high on my shoulder pocket and the recoil seems excessive- braked 6.5 cm- but I haven’t compared it to the factory stock. Did you guys move your scope forward or backwards, or height of rings to gain a comfortable position? T084 rings with a shv 2.5-10. I’m 5’8 with a normal wing span and can’t imagine it’s a LOP issue. Love the trigger reach. Also love the current LOP as it doesn’t seem to catch on jackets when I run it with my safari sling. I’ve been known to run a pack for years that wasn’t adjusted right so I could see myself doing something wrong…

You almost certainly need taller rings. UM mediums should do it.

 

[BearGuy]

You almost certainly need taller rings. UM mediums should do it.

Do mediums seem to solve that problem for everyone? My buddy has lows and I am not even close to being able to get the scope in my eye so I was thinking of going to the highs but I see a lot of people suggesting the mediums.