25gr. I didn’t work up to pressure to see how far I could push it. Just tried it at 25gr and got 2820fps which was good enough for me (factory barrel length). I am throwing charges with my harrellsWhat powder charge are you using with Lever. I understand that it's your load in your rifle and that if I blow myself up it's on me.
Thanks.
Frank
Thank you. That's right in line with what I've been seeing. Lever data for the 223 is sparce, I appreciate your reply.25gr. I didn’t work up to pressure to see how far I could push it. Just tried it at 25gr and got 2820fps which was good enough for me (factory barrel length). I am throwing charges with my harrells
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Supposedly they fit. There’s a few previous posts recommending it and warning about the 75s.Working up loads for my new tikka. Starting with 75gr eldm and 8208. Obviously the bullets are ridiculously long for the mag, but how do the 73gr bullets compare, especially fitting in the mag. I’m loading my OAL to 2.438, or 1.905 to the ogive. Basically all of the red tip won’t fit in the mag. Do the 73s fit better? I’ll probably get a different mag but I’ll single shot this thing for awhile.
The 73 is designed for AR mag length, similar to the tmk. The 75 has a very long nose, and really can’t be loaded shorter than around 2.38”.Working up loads for my new tikka. Starting with 75gr eldm and 8208. Obviously the bullets are ridiculously long for the mag, but how do the 73gr bullets compare, especially fitting in the mag. I’m loading my OAL to 2.438, or 1.905 to the ogive. Basically all of the red tip won’t fit in the mag. Do the 73s fit better? I’ll probably get a different mag but I’ll single shot this thing for awhile.
Supposedly they fit. There’s a few previous posts recommending it and warning about the 75s.
So I should get 73s if I want to use the standard tikka mag, and get close to lands? Or not even mess with lands.The 73 is designed for AR mag length, similar to the tmk. The 75 has a very long nose, and really can’t be loaded shorter than around 2.38”.
Mind sharing where you are finding the cheap 77smk it’s double that everywhere I’ve seen except some pulled ones I bought years ago lol@Lawnboi @wind gypsy @willfrye027 @Billy Goat
Here’s what I ended up with:
400 star line unprimed brass @ $20/100 after all the discounts.
CCi 400 primer x 100 @ $10. This was the cheapest I could find locally.
73 ELDM x 100 for $36/100. I overpaid locally. Dumbass
77 SMK x 200 for $14.50 per 100 after all the discounts. Half the price of the ELDMs.
1lb of TAC for $36. The only TAC I could find locally. I didn’t want to commit to a powder yet. I found 1lb of 8208 for.. wait for it… $68. At a local hardware store. Hard pass.
Current load cost is expected to be
Primer $.10
Bullet $.15 SMK or $.37 ELDM
Brass $.20
Powder $.12 (assuming 300 charges per lb)
Puts me at $.57 per SMK cartridge or $.79 for ELDM.
My rifle is being cut and threaded for a suppressor. Once that happens, I’ll try building my first set of test loads and take them out. Then a RokStok!
23.2gr 8208.Working up loads for my new tikka. Starting with 75gr eldm and 8208. Obviously the bullets are ridiculously long for the mag, but how do the 73gr bullets compare, especially fitting in the mag. I’m loading my OAL to 2.438, or 1.905 to the ogive. Basically all of the red tip won’t fit in the mag. Do the 73s fit better? I’ll probably get a different mag but I’ll single shot this thing for awhile.
In a factory barrel I had much better accuracy with the 73s and they worked fine at mag length, the 73eld actually shoots better for me than the 77tmk. I was using a PVA barrel with a 1:7 twist and that barrel did very well with the 75eld loaded long in modified Aics mags, it hated the 77tmk. The 75 really shines with a wylde chamber and 1:7 from my experience, with the tikkas short throat and magazine the 73 is the better pick.Working up loads for my new tikka. Starting with 75gr eldm and 8208. Obviously the bullets are ridiculously long for the mag, but how do the 73gr bullets compare, especially fitting in the mag. I’m loading my OAL to 2.438, or 1.905 to the ogive. Basically all of the red tip won’t fit in the mag. Do the 73s fit better? I’ll probably get a different mag but I’ll single shot this thing for awhile.
Thank you. That’s the info I’m looking for.In a factory barrel I had much better accuracy with the 73s and they worked fine at mag length, the 73eld actually shoots better for me than the 77tmk. I was using a PVA barrel with a 1:7 twist and that barrel did very well with the 75eld loaded long in modified Aics mags, it hated the 77tmk. The 75 really shines with a wylde chamber and 1:7 from my experience, with the tikkas short throat and magazine the 73 is the better pick.
I’d just load them at mag length. That bullet seems to be well liked by the tikka chambers Iv shot and loaded them in.So I should get 73s if I want to use the standard tikka mag, and get close to lands? Or not even mess with lands.
I’ll see about getting a box and how they shoot. The 23.2gr load shot really good today with the 75s, but the 23.5 and 23.8 load was horrible.I’d just load them at mag length. That bullet seems to be well liked by the tikka chambers Iv shot and loaded them in.
If you want a cheap and accurate bullet for practice, it’s hard to beat a 75 grain Hornady boat tail hollow point. Pair that with TAC powder and and once fired LC brass and you can build a lot of cheap accurate ammo to bang steel and punch paper.That’s perfect, thanks. I am bullet agnostic - just looking for the cheapest, accurate bullet that Tikkas like. I’ve had good experience with the ELDMs in my other Tikkas, so I may start there. They are cheaper, and I won’t be shooting big game with them.
This is pretty much what I do for the volume of my shooting. I’m going to be using TAC soon, I have used a variety of powders with that bullet and it works well as a practice load, I’m currently using n135.If you want a cheap and accurate bullet for practice, it’s hard to beat a 75 grain Hornady boat tail hollow point. Pair that with TAC powder and and once fired LC brass and you can build a lot of cheap accurate ammo to bang steel and punch paper.
People try to make stuff harder than it is. There is a long list of proven components and recipes for the 223.This is pretty much what I do for the volume of my shooting. I’m going to be using TAC soon, I have used a variety of powders with that bullet and it works well as a practice load, I’m currently using n135.
I agree, most need to just go shoot and figure out they can’t see the difference in the field. I see no reason to burn my stash of tmk on rocks and steel especially given their price over the 75bthp. I buy powder that’s available in a certain burn rate range and load ammo, it’s a plus if it’s cheap and shoots exceptionally well. Primers I buy what is available and load an ammo and go shoot. The worst loads I have made for my 223 have been roughly 2.2moa, that was with components the rifle just didn’t plain like 97% of the time the load will be sub 1.4moa using whatever I can find available.People try to make stuff harder than it is. It’s silly to recommend components that aren’t available. It doesn’t matter how good the magic fairy dust powder , bullet or primer works if you can’t get it.