Rokslide Special 223 recipe

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Don't sleep on the Hornady 68 BTHP and 75 BTHP. Inexpensive projectiles but they perform well for me. The SMKs may shoot a gnats ass better in all guns but not enough to truly justify the price in the .223.

I shoot the 68s over Varget in my bolt gun.
I shoot the 75s over TAC in gas guns.
I also shoot 77 SMKs over 8208XBR In gas guns.
 
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TheCougar

TheCougar

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One of the biggest positives to reloading is being able to buy same lot components in bulk. Saves time and ammo adjusting and checking, so you can spend more time actually shooting.

I’m not financially able to buy a barrels worth of factory premium ammo, but an 8lb keg of powder, brick of primers and 1k same lot bullets is attainable. That’s why I started reloading.

I would do just as @wind gypsy above. I actually just put a new barrel on my 223 and have 2 cases of adi ready to become that barrels brass.

Most 223 brass including Hornady has crimped primers. You can remove the crimp but it’s a pain in the ass, I reccomend finding brass that dosnt have a primer crimp, which can be tough in the 223/556 market.
What is the issue with crimped primers? Why do they come that way, and why remove them?
 
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TheCougar

TheCougar

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Don't sleep on the Hornady 68 BTHP and 75 BTHP. Inexpensive projectiles but they perform well for me. The SMKs may shoot a gnats ass better in all guns but not enough to truly justify the price in the .223.

I shoot the 68s over Varget in my bolt gun.
I shoot the 75s over TAC in gas guns.
I also shoot 77 SMKs over 8208XBR In gas guns.
What is the accuracy difference between them? I’ll be using them almost exclusively for practice out to 1000. Why the different powders for different bullets? I would think one powder would be fine for all of them?
 
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What is the accuracy difference between them? I’ll be using them almost exclusively for practice out to 1000. Why the different powders for different bullets? I would think one powder would be fine for all of them?
I started my reloading journey and the 68/69 BTHP was my first load. Varget was the powder I was reccomended. Loved it and haven't touched it since. Then through all the ammo scares over the past 14 years I've tried to branch out and find a few powders that I like. That way I can be on the look out for 3 kinds and not just hoping to find one.

8208 was my second powder. My goal was a temp stable powder for gas guns with less case fill than Varget. It does a good job at that. Issue is it can be hard to find.

TAC is my most recent powder, I started using it because it's $20/lb cheaper in my local market. It also seems to be a bit easier to source.

Hornady 68BTHP vs Sierra 69 SMK. Biggest difference I saw is consistency. At 100 yards groups look identical. Back it up and at 600 yards the Hornadys may throw a random flyer. It could just be me too. I just decided to stick with Hornady to keep costs as low as I can.

Took the rifle out to verify zero before taking it hunting. I won't complain For cheap projectiles and a factory rem barrel.
 

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TheCougar

TheCougar

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I started my reloading journey and the 68/69 BTHP was my first load. Varget was the powder I was reccomended. Loved it and haven't touched it since. Then through all the ammo scares over the past 14 years I've tried to branch out and find a few powders that I like. That way I can be on the look out for 3 kinds and not just hoping to find one.

8208 was my second powder. My goal was a temp stable powder for gas guns with less case fill than Varget. It does a good job at that. Issue is it can be hard to find.

TAC is my most recent powder, I started using it because it's $20/lb cheaper in my local market. It also seems to be a bit easier to source.

Hornady 68BTHP vs Sierra 69 SMK. Biggest difference I saw is consistency. At 100 yards groups look identical. Back it up and at 600 yards the Hornadys may throw a random flyer. It could just be me too. I just decided to stick with Hornady to keep costs as low as I can.

Took the rifle out to verify zero before taking it hunting. I won't complain For cheap projectiles and a factory rem barrel.
If I’m not shooting gas guns, would it be safe to say I don’t lose anything by finding Varget or TAc instead of the pricier XBR?
 

Lawnboi

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What is the issue with crimped primers? Why do they come that way, and why remove them?
Lots of 223 ammo has a crimp in the brass to hold the primer in for use in a gas gun. The primers come out but you need to remove the crimp with either a cutting or swaging tool. Can be a pain in the ass.

I’ll comment on some of the above either. When people talk about these powders and AR mag length ammo, you are in that realm unless you get magazines that will accept longer rounds. You are confined to the 2.28ish length round in your factory tikka mag. There are options to load longer, and some of the longer 22 cal bullets need longer, an example is the 75eldm.

So knowing that, I would eliminate varget, another great powder, off your list because you will have a compressed load and likely not hit a desired velocity before running out of case room. Compressed loads are not bad but they have some problems, and I choose not to run a load with too much crunch when seating.

Tac is a smaller ball powder, and xbr is a smaller kernel extruded powder, you can fit enough in the 223 case to see pressure with both.


If you’re shooting a 223 out to 1000 everything matters. The 223 starts to Peter out imo around the 400-600 yard range depending on wind and what bullet you’re shooting, after that I find it can sometimes be frustrating.
 
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If I’m not shooting gas guns, would it be safe to say I don’t lose anything by finding Varget or TAc instead of the pricier XBR?
I would say start with Varget or Tac if you can find it cheaper. I love XBR but I haven't seen any in about 2 years now. Tac and Varget while popular seem to pop up more commonly. If it keeps up this way I'll probably drop XBR once I run out.
 

Lawnboi

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I would say start with Varget or Tac if you can find it cheaper. I love XBR but I haven't seen any in about 2 years now. Tac and Varget while popular seem to pop up more commonly. If it keeps up this way I'll probably drop XBR once I run out.

Hogdon must have gotten a big xbr shipment, it’s been all over. Keep an eye out.
 
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TheCougar

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Lots of 223 ammo has a crimp in the brass to hold the primer in for use in a gas gun. The primers come out but you need to remove the crimp with either a cutting or swaging tool. Can be a pain in the ass.

I’ll comment on some of the above either. When people talk about these powders and AR mag length ammo, you are in that realm unless you get magazines that will accept longer rounds. You are confined to the 2.28ish length round in your factory tikka mag. There are options to load longer, and some of the longer 22 cal bullets need longer, an example is the 75eldm.

So knowing that, I would eliminate varget, another great powder, off your list because you will have a compressed load and likely not hit a desired velocity before running out of case room. Compressed loads are not bad but they have some problems, and I choose not to run a load with too much crunch when seating.

Tac is a smaller ball powder, and xbr is a smaller kernel extruded powder, you can fit enough in the 223 case to see pressure with both.


If you’re shooting a 223 out to 1000 everything matters. The 223 starts to Peter out imo around the 400-600 yard range depending on wind and what bullet you’re shooting, after that I find it can sometimes be frustrating.
Okay, so safe to say for my purposes to avoid the 75 ELDM due to OAL. Avoid the Varget due to capacity. Sound right? That leaves me looking for 73 ELDM or 68 or 75 BTHP. Plus New brass to avoid the crimped primers.
 

Lawnboi

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Okay, so safe to say for my purposes to avoid the 75 ELDM due to OAL. Avoid the Varget due to capacity. Sound right? That leaves me looking for 73 ELDM or 68 or 75 BTHP. Plus New brass to avoid the crimped primers.
Yes. I would also skip the 68grain bullets, the bc is too low. At range you get into the “this might hit” area really quick, where your chances of hitting become low enough your just gambling.

If I were in your shoes I’d buy a case of ADI, to break in your gun. No crimps on my 2 cases I have right now.

I’d buy a few pounds of xbr, a brick of cci450, and a box of 75bthp, 73eldm, and a box of 77tmk and smk.

Shoot the factory ammo to break in your barrel, then shoot each bullet to find what the rifle likes, once you find the bullet that preforms the Best, buy 2k + and shoot on.

A pound of tac or varget wouldn’t be a bad idea either to have different options to try, depending what your rifle likes.

That primed Norma on powder valley is quite a steal too
 
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TheCougar

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Yes. I would also skip the 68grain bullets, the bc is too low. At range you get into the “this might hit” area really quick, where your chances of hitting become low enough your just gambling.

If I were in your shoes I’d buy a case of ADI, to break in your gun. No crimps on my 2 cases I have right now.

I’d buy a few pounds of xbr, a brick of cci450, and a box of 75bthp, 73eldm, and a box of 77tmk and smk.

Shoot the factory ammo to break in your barrel, then shoot each bullet to find what the rifle likes, once you find the bullet that preforms the Best, buy 2k + and shoot on.

A pound of tac or varget wouldn’t be a bad idea either to have different options to try, depending what your rifle likes.

That primed Norma on powder valley is quite a steal too
Thanks again for all the help
 
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I've had good luck with Staball match and it can be had on the cheaper end. I've got a load made for my mk12 and 77s.

Gonna try eld Ms soon, they seem to be more readily available and can get a little more velocity over the 77s.

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
 

xsn10s

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I'm up to 2843 fps with the 73 gr ELDM's out of my 20" AR15. I'm using ASC 20 rnd mags so I seat out to 2.300". TAC, Win brass, white box WSR.
 

xsn10s

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I've had good luck with Staball match and it can be had on the cheaper end. I've got a load made for my mk12 and 77s.

Gonna try eld Ms soon, they seem to be more readily available and can get a little more velocity over the 77s.

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
I'd be inerested in hear for you Staball Match findings. I'm looking for a replacement for TAC that's not temp sensitive.
 
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I'd be inerested in hear for you Staball Match findings. I'm looking for a replacement for TAC that's not temp sensitive.
I'll check my load for the 77s when I get home I don't remember it off top of my head. I'll get to the 73s probably next weekend.


I've used all the staball powders, 300 PRC with HD and 6.5 Creedmoor with the 6.5, .233 and 308 with the match. I've regularly getting single digit SD and sub 30 ES

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
 
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I'm using Starline brass, CFE223, Remington 7.5's, and the TMK.


Never was able to source XBR, I had some pressure signs with TAC with a hot barrel, Varget was of course bulky. CFE223 was easy to get, relatively cheap, stable, and of course it cleans my barrel for me too @.


Acceptable accuracy, my RSS hasn't shown the accuracy that others claim, but it holds 1.5 moa @ 100, 10 shot groups with the load I'm putting together. And that's a maximum of 1.5, it's usually a little tighter, but I'm confident every 10 round group will be no larger.


I'm interested to try the 73eldm but haven't yet. Seems it's pretty close to same performance with factory mags,,easier to get, and cheaper.
 

Lawnboi

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I'm using Starline brass, CFE223, Remington 7.5's, and the TMK.


Never was able to source XBR, I had some pressure signs with TAC with a hot barrel, Varget was of course bulky. CFE223 was easy to get, relatively cheap, stable, and of course it cleans my barrel for me too @.


Acceptable accuracy, my RSS hasn't shown the accuracy that others claim, but it holds 1.5 moa @ 100, 10 shot groups with the load I'm putting together. And that's a maximum of 1.5, it's usually a little tighter, but I'm confident every 10 round group will be no larger.


I'm interested to try the 73eldm but haven't yet. Seems it's pretty close to same performance with factory mags,,easier to get, and cheaper.
That’s about all mine would do as well. Shot some good groups but was always a 1.5” gun.
 
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That’s about all mine would do as well. Shot some good groups but was always a 1.5” gun.

Once I fully wrapped my head around it, I realized that was good enough. That's minute of groundhog to 450. And rather than focusing on the tiny little 3 round holes I sometimes got, it was really showing the whole picture of what the gun did.

I'd like it tighter, but in reality I don't need it for what that gun is doing. My hit percentage on those little bastards has gone way up too, cause I actually have a lot of trigger time with that gun.
 

Lawnboi

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Once I fully wrapped my head around it, I realized that was good enough. That's minute of groundhog to 450. And rather than focusing on the tiny little 3 round holes I sometimes got, it was really showing the whole picture of what the gun did.

I'd like it tighter, but in reality I don't need it for what that gun is doing. My hit percentage on those little bastards has gone way up too, cause I actually have a lot of trigger time with that gun.
For what I was using the gun for it was getting marginal. It’s getting a new barrel now but I learned a lot over the 4k rounds I put through it. Perfectly serviceable big game rifle at 1.5”.

Was frustrating shooting better groups at 100 with my 17hmr though!
 
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