Rocksett to epoxy action to stock?

[RWT]

Curious if anyone considered or used Rocksett as an adhesive to attach an action to a stock. I ask, as it seems to be a method that would allow removal of the action from the stock by soaking it in water. You may have to clean the trigger after the soak, but it would allow a more secure connection and still be removable without having to use heat and ruining the synthetic stock. If I were to do this it would be with an action that is already epoxy bedded and the Rocksett would only be the adhesive for the action.

Looking for experience, opinions and other Fuddlore if this is possible. Also, I am not "in love" with the current factory plastic stock, but would consider it as removing/decreasing a variable. If it were to work, I would have a more "drop test" worth system.

 

[Axlrod]

I haven't tried it on an action, but I have used Rocksett on fasteners. I don't think it would have enough viscosity to bond a stock to an action. It wouldn't stay where you needed it before curing. It would work on the action screws to keep them in place.

On comp guns they use Marine Tex, JB etc to glue them.

 

[RWT]

Bueller?

 

[Castle Rock]

Depends what stock, nothing really sticks to plastic

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Why would you use something water soluble in an application where you might encounter water? Wrong adhesive for the job imo. Jb weld releases with moderate heat and a sharp jolt.

 

[RWT]

How would you heat an action in a plastic stock without melting the stock?

I agree on the water issue. That’s one reason I asked. I need a different perspective and you called it on the water. Thank you.

The adhesive is being applied to the area that is already bedded material. What ever epoxy Brownells supplies in their kit and will be used to bond the epoxy bedding surface to the metal action. Basically a removable superglue.

If there is an alternative adhesive that is not a permanent bond to the action.

 

[Marbles]

JB Kwik weld breaks at about 300 F, the standard slow cure at about 500 F.

For what you want, if you can manage the short working time, JB Kwik weld will work well. A few minutes with a heat gun and the action will pop out.

Cold will extend the working time.

Rockset in thicker amounts doesn't set up well, the outside cures and the middle stays liquid, so you get a glass shell around a liquid bubble. Also, a 24 hour soak is not particularly something I want to do to a trigger, or CroMoly action, might be ok with a stainless action, but still have the trigger to worry about.

 

[BBob]

How would you heat an action in a plastic stock without melting the stock?

The heat needed to get JB Weld to release isn't going to melt your stock.

 

[Wrench]

Hit the action with Johnson paste wax, buff it back and bed....don't break it free, it'll be as close to a glue in as you can get.

 

[Marbles]

How would you heat an action in a plastic stock without melting the stock?

I agree on the water issue. That’s one reason I asked. I need a different perspective and you called it on the water. Thank you.

The adhesive is being applied to the area that is already bedded material. What ever epoxy Brownells supplies in their kit and will be used to bond the epoxy bedding surface to the metal action. Basically a removable superglue.

If there is an alternative adhesive that is not a permanent bond to the action.

Use a rubber reinforced glue like 380 black max (just be aware of the very short working time), again a few minutes with a heat gun on the action will get you hot enough to break the bond. The stock likely needs a much higher temp to melt. I tried heating part of a Tikka stock to shape it and it simply would not heat enough using a heat gun.