Reviving an old warhorse and family heirloom

Joined
Jul 20, 2020
Messages
422
Location
NM
I thought it would be fun to kick off a thread chronicling an old rifle I'm trying to breathe some new life into. I've always taken a lot of pleasure shooting and hunting with older rifles, but this is probably my toughest (and hopefully most worthwhile) challenge yet.

The subject matter is a 1903-A3 Springfield that was sporterized by my great Uncle for my grandfather some time back in the late 60s/early 70s. My grandfather had a recurring hunting trip to the Wolf Creek Pass area of Colorado that went on for close to 20 years between him and a few other west Texas hunting buddies, and this was the regular rifle he carried for about the first decade of that journey. I got this rifle from my grandfather's estate after he passed about 5 years ago. I had tried to buy it from him several years before that when I got a lot of his other guns, but it was the one rifle he wouldn't part with. In his mind, as long as the 03-A3 was in the safe, he still had a chance to get back to CO. In my mind, if I can take this rifle hunting, he's still there with me in some way.

My great uncle was a heck of an amateur gunsmith, but this rifle is carrying some extra baggage that needs to get sorted. The work done is top-notch from what I can tell. The rifle was rechambered to 300 Win Mag using the original 2-groove .30-06 barrel, the barrel was reprofiled to a sporter contour, and the action was smoothed up a little and reblued. It rides in a really functional walnut sporter stock with a top notch bedding job, and was converted to a machined 1903 floorplate and trigger guard assembly in the process. Additional compliments include a vintage Timney Sportsman trigger and a Dayton low scope safety, as well as a period correct Bausch & Lomb scope and mounting system. The action is smooooth, and feeds those big fingerlings of 300WM like butter.

When I had discussed this rifle with my grandfather, he was adamant that there was one handload my great uncle had come up with that shot lights out, but that it shot bad with just about everything else. When I purchased his Sako 7 Rem Mag and a bunch of other gear from his later CO hunting days, we turned up a few of those old 300 loads which he kept, but sometime in the ensuing several years they went missing and my brother and I weren't able to turn them up in his estate, so I'll be starting from scratch in that dept. He never gave us any details on what that load was, and my great uncle has been gone for a very long time.

I finally got the old girl out to the range this weekend for a baseline. I had picked up some Hornady whitetail 150gr loads to try out in it and see if the legends were true, and at least initial results said they are. While still sighted in for a pretty good 200-300yd hunting zero, the rifle was shooting 7MOA, even after checking the torque on the action screws.
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So, with the old stories checked out, at least with a datapoint of one, I headed home to begin the saga of trying to get this thing sorted. I've got a January cow elk hunt here in NM that I'd like to get this thing up and running for, and I plan to chronicle progress here.

Step 1 will be a general cleanup. The bore is DIRTY, and likely contains some pitting (i.e. why I don't understand people who are adamant about not cleaning rifles, my grandfather did not clean guns and this was often the result). I did some heavy cleaning last night, and there are definitely pits in a few areas of the bore, but I've had worse shoot well, so we'll see.

Step 2 will probably be ditching the old Bausch & Lomb Balvar 8 mount and scope for a Redfield or Leupold base and rings with a better scope. I'll keep the original stuff for nostalgia's sake, but I want to find something more hunt ready, and I'm not sure some of the accuracy evils don't lie in the mounting setup.

Step 3 will be load development in an attempt to save this barrel. If I can find something that will shoot 2MOA or better, I'll be happy. The first load I'm going to try will be a few ladders of 178gr ELD-Xs I have laying around in some Lapua brass with either IMR-7828, IMR-4831, or H4831. I also have a few sample packs of various Hammer Hunter bullets on the way, as I've found them to shoot superbly accurate in my other rifles.

Step 4 (pending results of Step 3) may end up being a rebore to 338-300 Win Mag. I have the dies for this caliber, and that should clean up the pitted bore nicely without losing the nostalgia of the original barrel that so much work was put into. I'd be limited to just a few .338 bullets with the 3.38" mag length this rifle has, but it's an option. It does look like the mag box can be extended rearward .1-.2" with some mods to the bolt stop, so that's an option potentially as well.

Follow along if you want to track this project!
 
For step 3, I'd be interested in collecting any pet loads people have for 300WM (or loads people have found to work great in .30-06 2-groove 03-A3 barrels)

I've got the following bullets and powders on the shelf that seem appropriate:

IMR-7828SSC
H4831SC
IMR-4831

Sierra 150gr & 165gr Gameking
Hornady 178gr ELD-X
Hornady 225gr ELDM (nose length is too long on this one for a repeater, but I can single feed for testing)
Hammer 154gr HHT
Hammer 168gr HHT
Hammer 189gr Hunter

I'm not opposed to picking up a different bullet, as I shoot .300BO, .308, .30-06, and .30-40 Krag as well, but the above is what I have to start with.
 
Hopefully you find a good load, I know the BC is terrible but I believe it’s on a Hornady podcast they said their 220 gr. Rn was one of their most consistently accurate bullets. Similar to the above post, down loading with som 4895 or something could possibly help.
 
I would try some 300 Win Mag loads that mimic a 165gr 30/06 load.
that's kind of where my head was at trying the 150gr Hornady first. This rifle was designed for M2 ball ammo, which is a 150gr bullet. I don't have anything flat base in that weight, but I was thinking of downloading some 150gr Gamekings starting at '06 velocities (I believe M2 was around 2750) and seeing what that gives me as one of the ladders.
 
Hopefully you find a good load, I know the BC is terrible but I believe it’s on a Hornady podcast they said their 220 gr. Rn was one of their most consistently accurate bullets.
I do have that bullet on the shelf also. My Winchester 1895 in .30 US Army (.30-40 Krag) loves it.
 
What a cool old gun. In old rifles poor ignition from a weak firing pin spring can make a big difference if it’s really weak. If velocity variations are out of the normal range it might be worth the $15 for a new spring. Some surplus military rifles were pretty long in the tooth, so it might be worth checking bore diameter at the muzzle for erosion and if it’s pretty bell shaped maybe have an inch cut off and recrowned.

With a rifle that’s all over the place, trying different bullet weights seems to work better for me than different powders. They aren’t flashy, but a flat based bullet stabilizes a little easier.
 
What a cool old gun. In old rifles poor ignition from a weak firing pin spring can make a big difference if it’s really weak. If velocity variations are out of the normal range it might be worth the $15 for a new spring. Some surplus military rifles were pretty long in the tooth, so it might be worth checking bore diameter at the muzzle for erosion and if it’s pretty bell shaped maybe have an inch cut off and recrowned.

With a rifle that’s all over the place, trying different bullet weights seems to work better for me than different powders. They aren’t flashy, but a flat based bullet stabilizes a little easier.
Firing Pin spring feels strong, at least compared to my other Mauser derivative actions and unissued 1903-A3. I had the same thought on the muzzle after messing with WW1 era stuff (particularly of Russian origin) that had the muzzle back-bored to compensate for the effects of corrosive ammo in a wartime environment. From what I can tell visually the rifling is good all the way to the crown, and no issues with the crown itself. The 2-groove rifling is pretty shallow though, so it's hard to tell. I need to pull out my unissued 03-A3 and compare them side by side.

I'll have to pull a bullet to verify, but I'm pretty sure the 150gr loads I was shooting are flat based bullets. I'm more than a little worried they don't seem to be doing well, but it might just not like the load (or there could be an issue with scope mounting). The bedding is ultra tight, so I don't think that was an issue.

Here's the velocity numbers from my two five round strings. Not up to what I expect from my handloads, but nothing out of the ordinary for factory ammo:
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I did check headspace as well. It closes easily on a no-go gauge, but will not close on a field gauge. Chamber is a little looser than I prefer, but within spec. The RCBS cartridge comparator shows the shoulder at .004" longer than nominal for the fired cases (more room for powder!).
 
What is the twist rate in those old 2 groove barrels?
That should help narrow down the proper bullet weight shouldn't it?
 
What is the twist rate in those old 2 groove barrels?
That should help narrow down the proper bullet weight shouldn't it?
Every reference I can find says all the 03-A3s were twisted 1:10 for the 168gr AP ammunition. I still need to measure it and verify.
 
Cool gun with a great story. It looks something like my avatar which is my grand father's 1917 Enfield, which was also sporterized in the 60's but it's still a .30-06 and shoots any round you feed it and shoots it pretty well. Good luck with it and hopefully you'll get it dialed in and will be able to use it in CO sometime on an elk.
 
Fixed one of the major issues with the rifle last night. Function checks after cleaning everything up and adjusting the trigger showed that the safety was not fit properly to disengage the cocking piece from the sear. The symptom for this is the rifle firing when taken off safe after the trigger has been pulled with the safety on. I had a Mauser that did this once after a Timney trigger install, so I knew to watch for it.
Safety Malfunction Video

Instructions for these type of safety will tell you it’s critical for the safety to disengage the cocking piece from the sear. Usually this is described as the cocking piece being pulled rearwards .015” or so as the safety is engaged. Some amateurs don’t do this, because it introduces significant resistance in the safety swing (the more you have to leverage the cocking piece rearward, the more force required to engage the safety).

Unfortunately, if you don’t set the safety to pull the cocking piece rearward when engaged, the safety only serves to block the cocking piece from falling all the way forward when the trigger is pulled. This allows the cocking piece to push forward of the sear engagement face, preventing the trigger from resetting after it is pulled. This results in the cocking piece resting against the safety AFTER having jumped over a sear that can’t reset. When taken off safe, there is no longer anything holding the cocking piece rearwards, and the rifle fires.

The fix for this is filing the sear engagement of the cocking piece. This moves the cocking piece forward, shortening the distance the firing pin travels when fired. This surface is shortened until the cocking piece is far enough forward that the safety pulls it rearward when engaged. .015-.020” is a good number to account for tolerances in the bolt, field debris, etc.

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After getting the shape right with a rougher file and passing function test, a jewelers file is used to polish the surface for a crisp trigger break. Also a good time to beat the hell out of the buttstock (on the ground) and make sure the rifle won’t fire from safe if dropped.


All buttoned up and ready to hit the woods (safely). This will do for now, but the rifle will likely get an M70 style safety in the future. I view those as quite a bit more snag-proof than this Dayton-transfer style:
Fixed Safety Video
 
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