Reloading 2.0 Guidance Requested

OP
T
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If you don't wanna spend money your only going to be frustrated again.

It's not a cheap hobby to get into

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Not what I was saying…. I meant that I don’t want to throw money at components/tools that are not needed. I’m happy to spend the money on quality when those components/tools are necessary. For example a RCBS charge master. Probably not necessary for me

I found Form’s thread about simplifying reloading. Sounds pretty simple:

1. Find pressure in .5 or 1 increments. Back off pressure and then load 10. Load to mag length or boat tail/shoulder junction.. still trying to figure out exactly what he means
2. If those 10 don’t shoot well, you can change the power by 1 grain and try again or…
3. If still doesn’t shoot, change power or bullet


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Marbles

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Read that entire thread. It has an equipment list.



As a side note, I'm pretty sure Tikka chambers are not cut. My understanding is that in cold hammer forged barrels the chamber is part of the mandrel and formed along with the rifling. This gives a work hardened chamber and throat that is more durable than a cut chamber. It also means sloppy is an ignorant term, the spec may have looser clearances than someone likes, but tolerances around that spec are very tight.
 

CatManDo

FNG
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In a hunting rifle that sees a lot of field days, isn’t FL sizing recommended so the ammo feeds consistently? Just two weeks ago I had a feeding issue with factory ammo because there was a small junk of juniper wood that made its way into the action. If that made its way in, I’m sure dust/dirt makes it way in there during hunts (I clean it out after hunts)

Just trying to reload ammo that’s is accurate/consistent and feeds consistently. If I focus on too many other variables/things I’ll be back down the rabbit hole pulling my hair out


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Bigstuck is not being very constructive. For one thing, he doesn't no your rifles chamber. The big boys that shoot PRS, and extra long range UNIVERSALLY FULL LENGTH RESIZE. Again, RCBS Dies are very good.
You already know enough to get started on the right path. Good Luck.
 
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Way back in the original post, you say consistency varied more than you like. And then went back to Hornady ammo. What is the variance between what you were getting, what you would like, and the Hornady ammo?
 
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RyanT26

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I’ve only been reloading for a few years, so take anything I say, with a grain of salt. I use RCBS single stage press, hornady, full length sizing dies, Hornady micrometer, RCBS charge master, and Hornady’s comparator.

I prefer to use Petersen brass, but Hornady brass works ok as well. You may not be able to get as many reloads on it, that may or may not be a big deal to you.

Primers are just hard to find right now but I have a bit of a pile of CCI 200s so that’s what I use. Pick one and use it.

For a 6.5 Creedmoor, I would start with H4350 near book max.
Bullets- Hornady 147,143,140 or serria 130 Tmk pick one and start.


As someone who tried to do all these silly ladder tests and other gobbledygook. I would recommend following Forms method. You truly do not have to make it any harder than you want to.
 
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BigStick

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Bigstuck is not being very constructive. For one thing, he doesn't no your rifles chamber. The big boys that shoot PRS, and extra long range UNIVERSALLY FULL LENGTH RESIZE. Again, RCBS Dies are very good.
You already know enough to get started on the right path. Good Luck.
"Know" is a BIG word............
 

CatManDo

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I believe that more appropriately applies to your pretense.
I'll even go so far as to say you were probably once a nice chap, before you became omnipotent, at least in your own eyes.
 
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What entails accurate advice? Single stage press, Redding, RCBS, Lee dies (pick any), balance beam or electronic scale, Lee powder dipper, tools to trim cases, chamfer case mouth and clean primer pockets work well. Put up 1000's and 1000's of rounds of ammo using the above. The powder measure helps with some bulk loading applications esp. handguns. But otherwise, if in such a hurry based on the volume of loaded rounds needed, I take an extra night at the reloading bench.

I will absolutely concur, keep it simple. How much extra are you trying to get out of the process with respect to accuracy and consistency, etc.? I would contend based on experience, standard methods without using all the tools that have been created to make us think we need those tools, can handle most all big game applications which I think is what we're talking about here. It's all about marketing, and the proof is what works and seriously diminishing returns once you go above and beyond that.

However, don't get caught up on energy... it's just not what it's made out to be. It was a way to make glossy eyes and to have hunters reach for their money clips back in the day before legit information and knowledge was widespread. It's about expansion velocity of the projectile in order to do the job.
 

Leverwalker

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OP, one thing I don't think I've seen (sorry if I missed it), is whether you're looking for "target" precision, or "field" precision. I ask only because I spent years, and countless components, chasing a level of precision that has zero to do with my personal hunting need, which is my only desire. Hard for me to do, personally, but "good enough" wasn't a bad lesson. I think it helps to have a clear goal out front, then work backwards, that's all. Good luck.

Edit: crossed in the mail with 35Whelen. Pretty much what I was trying to say.
 
OP
T
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OP, one thing I don't think I've seen (sorry if I missed it), is whether you're looking for "target" precision, or "field" precision. I ask only because I spent years, and countless components, chasing a level of precision that has zero to do with my personal hunting need, which is my only desire. Hard for me to do, personally, but "good enough" wasn't a bad lesson. I think it helps to have a clear goal out front, then work backwards, that's all. Good luck.

Edit: crossed in the mail with 35Whelen. Pretty much what I was trying to say.

To respond to you and 35Whelen, I’m looking to load some pretty consistent ammo. Right now I’m regularly practicing to 600 yards with the precision hunter ammo and I want to push that to 800-1000 yards

I’m starting to realize that I may be best to stick with Hornady factory ammo. Maybe shoot the 140 eldm match factory ammo to save a little $ when practicing

And to pacify my desire for more impact speed when hunting, maybe go with some unknown munitions ammo


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I ran factory ammo then reloads in my factory tikka tac a1, was a solid 5/8moa gun reliably. Shot better, shot a little worse, but day in and day out I could expect those groups out of it. Won a factory rifle prs trophy as well with it. It’s got 2000rds down it and is still hammering. With the right gear and components you should have yourself a shooter.

In all my rifles, factory through custom I never skimp on reloading components. Whether that’s good or bad, at the end of the day I don’t regret it. Once your rifle gets to where you want it to be it will all be worth it.
 

BigStick

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To respond to you and 35Whelen, I’m looking to load some pretty consistent ammo. Right now I’m regularly practicing to 600 yards with the precision hunter ammo and I want to push that to 800-1000 yards

I’m starting to realize that I may be best to stick with Hornady factory ammo. Maybe shoot the 140 eldm match factory ammo to save a little $ when practicing

And to pacify my desire for more impact speed when hunting, maybe go with some unknown munitions ammo


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In fairness,you are consistently missing all things which matter..........
 
Joined
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Steel target is shot at 600yds. This is on a sloppy chanber tikka 7 saum. Paper target is out of my sloppy chamber 6.5 creedmoor tikka as well.IMG_5537.jpegIMG_5549.jpeg
 

Leverwalker

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Messages
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Location
Wisconsin
To respond to you and 35Whelen, I’m looking to load some pretty consistent ammo. Right now I’m regularly practicing to 600 yards with the precision hunter ammo and I want to push that to 800-1000 yards

I’m starting to realize that I may be best to stick with Hornady factory ammo. Maybe shoot the 140 eldm match factory ammo to save a little $ when practicing

And to pacify my desire for more impact speed when hunting, maybe go with some unknown munitions ammo


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That's good to know. Sorry I have no helpful advice as my only concern is an ethical kill out to my hunting limits, very different beast from what you're after. Good luck.
 
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Messages
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If factory ammo is performing within your standards then by all means keep running it. I’m guilty of chasing the grass is greener all too much, I have friends who I am pushing to stay factory ammo until their abilities grow into a state that it requires precision from hand loads and custom rifles. Until then trigger time and experience is beneficial even if your groups aren’t as tight as you’d like. Play with different ammo as well, my factory tikka 6.5 creedmoor shot the 140 eld ammo extremely well and didn’t like the 143’s as much. Don’t be afraid to try other types of ammo, it may surprise you.
 
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