www.beararchery.com
That bear is not ILF. It uses a proprietary attachment system.I woudl look into ILF for pairing risers with separate limbs, takedowns, or single pieces and decide what configuration you want first. Hoyt Satori riser is kind of an easy button, but a lot more $ to get into to start. I see Bear has a version of this in a "Fred" as well as a "Mag" riser:
Fred Eichler Signature Series Take Down
We are partnering with Fred Eichler on a new, first of its kind aluminum Take Down riser. Master the art of archery with the Fred Eichler recurve bow, where traditional craftsmanship meets modern performance.
*I'm no help between the Satori and Bear ILF riser offerings, hopefully someone can chime in that has used both, the Bear one looks intruiging. Also another interesting ILF riser out there: https://www.3riversarchery.com/das-ht-21-riser.html
Since you said First recurve I will offer some unsolicited advise as well:
Personally, I would just get a cheap Samick Sage (< $200) with a pair of lower weight limbs along with a pair of 50lb limbs - that isn't a hoyt or bear like you asked, but it works. I did that for a year and it worked fine, killed a bull with it even. THEN go a little more "all in" once you have figured out some preferences in the bow? It's always nice to have a lower 30-40lb bow laying around for some easy practice.
You'll be faced with more decisions - split vs 3-under (I would do 3 under), instinctive vs gap vs string walking vs fixed crawl (I would do this and use your arrow point to aim if you are coming from a compound, set your crawl at 20-25 yards) on shooting style, where and what you anchor with, tab vs glove (I would use a tab), etc.
I didn’t look very close at it, good to know. Personally no way I’d consider something that wasn’t ILF, surprised they did that.
I know why and I understand it. I have several limbs that are 30 plus year old from and Old Bear A and B handle that would plug and play on that riser. So I get it that they kept the same fitting.
There's no way to answer until you have the length of draw, weight of bow and choice of point weight.
rokslide.com
Kind as in brand or spine? Brand can be anything, lots of good arrows. If your into carbon I always liked Easton Axis as a dependable but affordable shaft. @Wrench is correct about spine, no way to know until we know the bow and weight you decide on. Trad bows are much more unforgiving of spine ranges than compounds are.
Thank you...im going to look into some arrows,quiver and stuff for it
I put the string on the bow yesterday evening and pulled it back with a 27" arrow. Wife said look like about 3/4" to 1" sticking out in front of my hand. I felt I needed to pull back I little more not sure. I'm thinking maybe 28" arrow would be a good choice. As far as broadheads, probably will go with 150gr ironwill
Full length in the proper spine. That will depend on draw weight at your draw length, desired tip weight, shelf vs rest, etc.
Shelf, 28 inches, 45lb, 150gr broadhead
For those numbers a 400 or 500 should be able to clean up. If it's cut past center and or fast limbs, start 400 if not.....500.
