Like Wrench, 400 or 500, leaning 500 with that bow. Buy one or two of each and see how they tune.Shelf, 28 inches, 45lb, 150gr broadhead
Like Wrench, 400 or 500, leaning 500 with that bow. Buy one or two of each and see how they tune.Shelf, 28 inches, 45lb, 150gr broadhead
Would you use feathers or vanes on the arrows...im looking at some bare shaft black eagle arrowsLike Wrench, 400 or 500, leaning 500 with that bow. Buy one or two of each and see how they tune.
Feathers for shooting off shelf. I've used Trad Vanes, which are designed to shoot off shelf, but found them too delicate and finicky. I currently use 4 2" Trueflight shield cut. No problem stabilizing a broadhead.Would you use feathers or vanes on the arrows...im looking at some bare shaft black eagle arrows
Great advice. If you have a chronograph, you can use that and just look for the brace height that gives you the best speed. Start low and work your way up a couple twists at a time, shooting a few arrows at each adjustment to make sure you don't make a decision based on a crappy release. Helpful to have a friend watch/film over your shoulder to see how arrow flight looks if possible. Noise/handshock is totally valid if you don't have the chronograph, just maybe a little more challenging to get right.If you are new to traditional archery, remember that tuning is different than a compound. Tune to bow for noise and handshock though brace height adjustments. Then tune the arrow to the bow through different spines, arrow length, nocking point location and point weight. Lots of good bareshaft tuning info out there.
I had the exact same experience with Trad Vanes and ended up with the exact same fletching config.Feathers for shooting off shelf. I've used Trad Vanes, which are designed to shoot off shelf, but found them to delicate and finicky. I currently use 4 2" Trueflight shield cut. No problem stabilizing a broadhead.