First question to ask yourself. Why do I want to hunt with a bow instead of a rifle. For the intimacy of it? Increase hunting time? How far am I willing to shoot. Personally, I do it for the intimacy which drives not only my shot distance but my entire approach to elk hunting with a bow and how I guide. I do not believe in shooting over 40 yards.
Here are a few observations/opinions that I believe will greatly increase the chance of harvesting. Meant for new folks just entering our wonderful hunting community, who are planning for a guided hunt or hunt with a buddy. I am sure there is much room for debate on some of this from others who are experienced and have differing experiences then I have. God willing, we can discuss these and at the end new folks will have a better idea of where they are and what needs to be done.
Shooting utensil of choice. Be very accurate with your brand of bow. From what I see heavy arrows are better than lite arrows. Broadhead, whether fixed or mechanical cutting diameter of at least 1 and 1/8" or bigger. Size of broadhead should be proportional to poundage of bow you choose. There are more philosophies on this then stars in sky. Should be able to hold your bow for a couple minutes and still be able to make accurate shot at 40 yards, from different positions with at least half the arrow penetrating.
Example: Guy draws bow, has to hold it while waiting for a bull to take a step or two. Bull is too close for shooter to step around an obstacle. Instead, he leans or squats a bit to get clear view of vitals. This can be a fairly regular occurrence.
Practicing: Keep in mind, when your time comes to make a shot adrenalin will be high. Fatigue and dehydration most likely will also be players. All 3 play into stability. Stability is big factor in archery shooting. Instead of practicing from stable proper form positions ALL the time. practice from unstable awkward positions until you become comfortable and accurate from those positions. Odds are good if you are prepared for them, you will not have to face them. Practice until your shooting process is automatic. 2 to 4 arrows on a consistent basis throughout the year, is far better then, no practice until they month before your hunt. If you become a 30 arrow a day shooter as your body fatigues a bit your grouping will worsen. It's not the bow. If you are shooting lights out on Tuesday and can't hit broadside of barn on Wednesday, it's not the bow. It is most often fundamentals. Take a break regroup, then walk yourself through every action from feet to head. First arrow of day is most important arrow. In field you will not have 30 shots to make a good one. Tune broadheads to match flight of field points. Wax bow string often. Shoot with a pack on.
Some things to always have 2 of in camp or vehicle: Release (that you have practiced with) is most often lost or forgotten item I see. Range finder battery. Boots. Socks. Allen wrench set. string wax. This list can be endless, try not to get lost in weeds.
Basic hunting tactics:
Elk never travels a straight line. Especially when bumped. They always bed watching their back trail. Keep this in mind when tracking, how you walk (noise in woods), can make all the difference. Walk on front half of foot as much as possible. Heel walking makes a sharper crunch on sticks and harder thud on ground. Avoid heel to toe (rolling foot from heel to toe) stalking like the plague. Stalking animals in woods is more about the kind of sound you are making then not making any sound. Try to wear clothing that is not overly baggy. Rubbing sound from inside of legs when you are walking will give you away. Predators try to be completely silent. Only one thing will scare an ungulate more than hearing something sneaking through the woods; that is human scent. Keeping the wind is a critical thing. Wind, however, does not have to be completely perfect. Where you are in relation to elk and terrain will dictate ideal wind. For instance, if you are on same contour as elk a crosswind is far better than dead downwind. Since elk prefer high ground over wind you can predict with almost certainty the bulls' route to caller. Especially if you can set up below an overlooking bench. Shooter sets up above bench, caller sets up slightly below bench and further around contour. In bulls mind he gets sight of area then if he wants more investigation, he climbs keeping the high ground and wind. Except while he is contemplating, the shooter just stuck him at 30 yards (or closer) with a downhill shot. If a bull is talking then goes silent, after a few minutes you find yourself wondering if he is gone or hung up, be very patient. Sometimes over an hour. Critical shooter Does not move. Caller has most critical job. Too much to explain here.
Calling bull to 100 yards is easy. Things get more complicated once a bull gets into that 60-yard range. Call it 50 to 70 yards which is where most sets go wrong. Once a bull breaks the 60-yard barrier he is most likely coming on a string.
How to setup for shooter and caller. Pick place for shooter where elk has to walk through to see caller (shooter in crosswind if possible). Caller should be out of sight line. I.E. over a knob behind dense bushes, around a corner. I Find at least 100-200 yards from caller to shooter to be ideal. Gives caller more room to move around if needed to swing the bull. Especially if trying to pull a bull downhill. When blind calling keep shooter close 10-20 yards.
When with an actual guide, trust the guide. Every set will not go according to plan. Discuss immediately what happen. Not all guides are created equal. Even old farts always have something to learn. Discussion is best learning process for future sets. Callers most often can't see what is going on. Thier decisions are based off sounds. Letting the caller know what the bull was doing. Did he run in and freeze? Was his head high or low? Did he peak over a knob, stop short or stop on top of knob? 2 guys with little experience, draw it out in dirt. Visualizing the scenario will help learn from it. Often times a bulls' voice and actions don't match up. He may sound extremely aggressive with very timid actions. Sometimes he can be very aggressive and almost dead silent. both can line up and neither can line up. Which all will help explain the psychology and sociology in your neck of woods at that time. Both can vary from day to day.
Learn all you can about the biology of elk. A better understanding of their psychology and sociology will make it far easier to predict behavior and movements. Also help understand what calls to use, why and in what order. The Willy Nilly stuff works a few days out of the year. From September to November elk are very callable. However, the type and sequence will be far different in September then November.
The standoff: 2 or more bulls are responsive. Then all decide they want in on action. By 5th or 10th of September the bulls in that area already know their pecking order. You do not know by the sound of their voice what pecking order is, or who is more worn down. On any given day the biggest bull may not be the toughest bull. If multiple bulls start for you and then hang up, be very patient. Over the course of the next 2 to 3 hours one of them will come sneaking in. The bulls will work that out and you will not be able to tell which it is (usually). Critical that shooters move to within 60ish yards of caller and be very still/vigilant. Caller has to be on his game. calling should be sporadic and only cow sounds. Caller should be mostly silent and moving in a 40-yard square. Trying to sound like browsing cows. Only calls made should be of cow talking to another cow or her baby. I find cow talking to calf best for increasing bull curiosity. Hopefully shooter can set in such a way that any bull who comes in has to come through around or over an obstacle to see caller. keep in mind that bulls know the terrain better. If one bull has to come through open terrain and one bull can get close with cover, then bull with best cover is most likely who will finally come take a look. Terrain each bull has to cover will play a big role in which one comes in.
Bulls love traveling on edges. Whether its benches, meadows, ridges they like the edges. Top third of mountains for bedding especially in predator country. Meadows make for great sets, since a bull will almost always come around one end or the other. If you can get a meadow with a ridge on one side that peters out at bottom of meadow. Almost bet money the bull is coming across the bottom of meadow and around corner of ridge (especially if ridge is rocky) and caller sets up low. Whether the bull comes across top edge or bottom edge can be determined by where the caller sets up. That should be determined by which route gives the bull easiest avenue to approach and see over or around the ridge. For instance, if meadow drops off to a deep ravine on bottom, then bull will not be very willing to come through a ravine, he will want you to come to him.
Frontal shots are quickest most deadly shot you can make out to 25 yards at max. I find it to be far more effective to take the frontal at 20 yards then to shot in ribs at 60 or beyond. I'll leave it at that.
Lastly....
Be in good shape. Not just decent....Good shape. On a guided archery elk hunt expect to cover 7 miles a day round trip on foot with very little flat traveling. Most of this is going to be mental shape. Even guys in great shape struggle. Determination is a critical factor. The more you prepare the more determination you will have.
Here are a few observations/opinions that I believe will greatly increase the chance of harvesting. Meant for new folks just entering our wonderful hunting community, who are planning for a guided hunt or hunt with a buddy. I am sure there is much room for debate on some of this from others who are experienced and have differing experiences then I have. God willing, we can discuss these and at the end new folks will have a better idea of where they are and what needs to be done.
Shooting utensil of choice. Be very accurate with your brand of bow. From what I see heavy arrows are better than lite arrows. Broadhead, whether fixed or mechanical cutting diameter of at least 1 and 1/8" or bigger. Size of broadhead should be proportional to poundage of bow you choose. There are more philosophies on this then stars in sky. Should be able to hold your bow for a couple minutes and still be able to make accurate shot at 40 yards, from different positions with at least half the arrow penetrating.
Example: Guy draws bow, has to hold it while waiting for a bull to take a step or two. Bull is too close for shooter to step around an obstacle. Instead, he leans or squats a bit to get clear view of vitals. This can be a fairly regular occurrence.
Practicing: Keep in mind, when your time comes to make a shot adrenalin will be high. Fatigue and dehydration most likely will also be players. All 3 play into stability. Stability is big factor in archery shooting. Instead of practicing from stable proper form positions ALL the time. practice from unstable awkward positions until you become comfortable and accurate from those positions. Odds are good if you are prepared for them, you will not have to face them. Practice until your shooting process is automatic. 2 to 4 arrows on a consistent basis throughout the year, is far better then, no practice until they month before your hunt. If you become a 30 arrow a day shooter as your body fatigues a bit your grouping will worsen. It's not the bow. If you are shooting lights out on Tuesday and can't hit broadside of barn on Wednesday, it's not the bow. It is most often fundamentals. Take a break regroup, then walk yourself through every action from feet to head. First arrow of day is most important arrow. In field you will not have 30 shots to make a good one. Tune broadheads to match flight of field points. Wax bow string often. Shoot with a pack on.
Some things to always have 2 of in camp or vehicle: Release (that you have practiced with) is most often lost or forgotten item I see. Range finder battery. Boots. Socks. Allen wrench set. string wax. This list can be endless, try not to get lost in weeds.
Basic hunting tactics:
Elk never travels a straight line. Especially when bumped. They always bed watching their back trail. Keep this in mind when tracking, how you walk (noise in woods), can make all the difference. Walk on front half of foot as much as possible. Heel walking makes a sharper crunch on sticks and harder thud on ground. Avoid heel to toe (rolling foot from heel to toe) stalking like the plague. Stalking animals in woods is more about the kind of sound you are making then not making any sound. Try to wear clothing that is not overly baggy. Rubbing sound from inside of legs when you are walking will give you away. Predators try to be completely silent. Only one thing will scare an ungulate more than hearing something sneaking through the woods; that is human scent. Keeping the wind is a critical thing. Wind, however, does not have to be completely perfect. Where you are in relation to elk and terrain will dictate ideal wind. For instance, if you are on same contour as elk a crosswind is far better than dead downwind. Since elk prefer high ground over wind you can predict with almost certainty the bulls' route to caller. Especially if you can set up below an overlooking bench. Shooter sets up above bench, caller sets up slightly below bench and further around contour. In bulls mind he gets sight of area then if he wants more investigation, he climbs keeping the high ground and wind. Except while he is contemplating, the shooter just stuck him at 30 yards (or closer) with a downhill shot. If a bull is talking then goes silent, after a few minutes you find yourself wondering if he is gone or hung up, be very patient. Sometimes over an hour. Critical shooter Does not move. Caller has most critical job. Too much to explain here.
Calling bull to 100 yards is easy. Things get more complicated once a bull gets into that 60-yard range. Call it 50 to 70 yards which is where most sets go wrong. Once a bull breaks the 60-yard barrier he is most likely coming on a string.
How to setup for shooter and caller. Pick place for shooter where elk has to walk through to see caller (shooter in crosswind if possible). Caller should be out of sight line. I.E. over a knob behind dense bushes, around a corner. I Find at least 100-200 yards from caller to shooter to be ideal. Gives caller more room to move around if needed to swing the bull. Especially if trying to pull a bull downhill. When blind calling keep shooter close 10-20 yards.
When with an actual guide, trust the guide. Every set will not go according to plan. Discuss immediately what happen. Not all guides are created equal. Even old farts always have something to learn. Discussion is best learning process for future sets. Callers most often can't see what is going on. Thier decisions are based off sounds. Letting the caller know what the bull was doing. Did he run in and freeze? Was his head high or low? Did he peak over a knob, stop short or stop on top of knob? 2 guys with little experience, draw it out in dirt. Visualizing the scenario will help learn from it. Often times a bulls' voice and actions don't match up. He may sound extremely aggressive with very timid actions. Sometimes he can be very aggressive and almost dead silent. both can line up and neither can line up. Which all will help explain the psychology and sociology in your neck of woods at that time. Both can vary from day to day.
Learn all you can about the biology of elk. A better understanding of their psychology and sociology will make it far easier to predict behavior and movements. Also help understand what calls to use, why and in what order. The Willy Nilly stuff works a few days out of the year. From September to November elk are very callable. However, the type and sequence will be far different in September then November.
The standoff: 2 or more bulls are responsive. Then all decide they want in on action. By 5th or 10th of September the bulls in that area already know their pecking order. You do not know by the sound of their voice what pecking order is, or who is more worn down. On any given day the biggest bull may not be the toughest bull. If multiple bulls start for you and then hang up, be very patient. Over the course of the next 2 to 3 hours one of them will come sneaking in. The bulls will work that out and you will not be able to tell which it is (usually). Critical that shooters move to within 60ish yards of caller and be very still/vigilant. Caller has to be on his game. calling should be sporadic and only cow sounds. Caller should be mostly silent and moving in a 40-yard square. Trying to sound like browsing cows. Only calls made should be of cow talking to another cow or her baby. I find cow talking to calf best for increasing bull curiosity. Hopefully shooter can set in such a way that any bull who comes in has to come through around or over an obstacle to see caller. keep in mind that bulls know the terrain better. If one bull has to come through open terrain and one bull can get close with cover, then bull with best cover is most likely who will finally come take a look. Terrain each bull has to cover will play a big role in which one comes in.
Bulls love traveling on edges. Whether its benches, meadows, ridges they like the edges. Top third of mountains for bedding especially in predator country. Meadows make for great sets, since a bull will almost always come around one end or the other. If you can get a meadow with a ridge on one side that peters out at bottom of meadow. Almost bet money the bull is coming across the bottom of meadow and around corner of ridge (especially if ridge is rocky) and caller sets up low. Whether the bull comes across top edge or bottom edge can be determined by where the caller sets up. That should be determined by which route gives the bull easiest avenue to approach and see over or around the ridge. For instance, if meadow drops off to a deep ravine on bottom, then bull will not be very willing to come through a ravine, he will want you to come to him.
Frontal shots are quickest most deadly shot you can make out to 25 yards at max. I find it to be far more effective to take the frontal at 20 yards then to shot in ribs at 60 or beyond. I'll leave it at that.
Lastly....
Be in good shape. Not just decent....Good shape. On a guided archery elk hunt expect to cover 7 miles a day round trip on foot with very little flat traveling. Most of this is going to be mental shape. Even guys in great shape struggle. Determination is a critical factor. The more you prepare the more determination you will have.
