Ram 2500 Tire Chains

[260284]

Headed to units 22 and 111 in mid November for a cow elk hunt. I have a 2014 Ram 2500 diesel that is leveled with 295/60/20 tires. I am told that when it snows up there it drifts pretty bad and chains are recommended. I have never needed them here in Kansas, but I don't want to be stuck without them. I plan on pulling a jumping jack tent trailer with an ATV on it and camping on the BLM.

Any suggestions on chains?

 

[Lwilliams]

I run v-bar chains if things are going to be icy and heavy lug chains the rest of the time. 3/4 ton dodge diesel here as well. Stay away from the smaller light duty chains, they won't hold up

 

[260284]

I run v-bar chains if things are going to be icy and heavy lug chains the rest of the time. 3/4 ton dodge diesel here as well. Stay away from the smaller light duty chains, they won't hold up

What brand do you run for snow? That seems to be the biggest issue up there.

 

[Lwilliams]

I couldn't tell you the brand. Bought locally at a farmers co-op years ago.

 

[mt terry d]

Yeah, the ones with those little grippers are the gnat's a$$.

If you can get the ones with the side cam tighteners like on semis
that's helpful.

And toss in a small shovel

Remember, If you only have one set always chain the front.

 

[260284]

Yeah, the ones with those little grippers are the gnat's a$$.

If you can get the ones with the side cam tighteners like on semis
that's helpful.

And toss in a small shovel

Remember, If you only have one set always chain the front.

I always have a shovel in the truck. Adding an all terrain 3 ton floor jack next.

 

[Wrench]

I buy sets for semi 22.5's and cut them down. The bigger chain and especially larger cams make unstoppable chains. I typically buy them off Craigslist for $50-75 a pair and cut about 10" off the end without the locks.

 

[260284]

I buy sets for semi 22.5's and cut them down. The bigger chain and especially larger cams make unstoppable chains. I typically buy them off Craigslist for $50-75 a pair and cut about 10" off the end without the locks.

We don't see them for sale like that in Kansas. Would be nice to find some like that though.

 

[Jason Snyder]

V bar are good for bad ice and really deep snow. I don’t currently use v bars and they do fine for what I plan on driving through.

I like a scoop/coal shovel for snow. Far more efficient. Get a couple extra sets of the rubber snubbers, as they will break or throw hooks. I have cam locks and then tighten more with snubbers.

 

[MallardSX2]

Boron Alloy 7mm square chains or nothing for me. They are the best. Go slow or bring your mouthpiece.. lol

 

[Weldor]

Check your owners manual, I have a 18 ram 2500 no chains except S-type. Not much clearance from the disc brakes. Let me know if you find anything that works that won't tear off your brakes. I've used heavy duty s-type with moderate success. I actually had a rear brake line come loose at the caliper from wheel chatter on a icy dirt road

 

[260284]

Check your owners manual, I have a 18 ram 2500 no chains except S-type. Not much clearance from the disc brakes. Let me know if you find anything that works that won't tear off your brakes. I've used heavy duty s-type with moderate success. I actually had a rear brake line come loose at the caliper from wheel chatter on a icy dirt road

I plan on only using them on two tracks at low speed.

 

[Wrench]

You want cams not snubbers..... it's worth twice the price. They simply don't come loose.

 

[mt terry d]

I buy sets for semi 22.5's and cut them down. The bigger chain and especially larger cams make unstoppable chains. I typically buy them off Craigslist for $50-75 a pair and cut about 10" off the end without the locks.

Helluvan idea.
I'm going from 32's to 35's this fall and need new chains.
Thanks

 

[go_deep]

If you have one set of chains, always chain opposite corners, opposite sides.

I agree, the V grove ice cleated chain are the best

 

[Choupique]

have a 18 ram 2500 no chains except S-type. Not much clearance from the disc brakes. Let me know if you find anything that works that won't tear off your brakes. I've used heavy duty s-type with moderate success.

I've used the regular ol light truck V bar chains on my 18 ram 2500 without issue so far. Whatever kind the local coop carries that come in the little canvas bag.

The traction is amazing, almost problematic because its a little too confidence inspiring. It seems like it could climb a vertical ice sheet. Just enough to get you in some stuff you oughta not be in...

Our rule is when the chains go on, we're looking for somewhere to turn around. Thats far enough.

 

[turbobrick]

I just run basic heavy duty chains from NAPA on my ‘14 Power Wagon on 35s. They don’t require bungees, but I use them just as insurance and to keep the noise down. I can’t imagine any normal chain for trucks causing interference with the caliper as mentioned above, usually the issue is lack of clearance between the sidewall and strut, not the caliper. I ran these same chains on my ‘08 Ram 2500 as well.

 

[getcervid]

I bought these self adjusting AutoTrac / Peerless chains for a snow wheeling trip a few winters ago. I ran them on all 4 tires. They worked as advertised and everyone else was impressed by how easy they were to set up. I followed some much better equipped rigs and was able to hold my own.

My understanding, though, is that the self-tightening equipment on the sides of the chain is a potential point of failure - don’t smash that on a rock.

Beyond that, the bag is nice and sometimes I put these in the bag and then in my pack for rucking.

 

[getcervid]

If you have one set of chains, always chain opposite corners, opposite sides.

Help me understand your point of view, but as I see it this would not give the best possible traction to 4WD vehicles with open diffs.

I envision this setup running into problems with cross axle traction loss - fairly common to encounter when offroading and suspension flexes out. Opposite side / opposite corners tires lose traction and spin, and you’re stuck.

I have so far found it to be true that power follows the path of least resistance in open diffs. Tires with no traction (resistance) spin.

I envision that keeping one axle chained on both sides is better. Both tires will offer similar resistance (and therefore receive similar power) up until you flex out the suspension pretty extremely and one tire is in the air or nearly in the air.

If you place them on opposite sides and opposite corners, aren’t you:

1. Making it less likely that each tire receives similar power, and therefore experiencing wheel spin more frequently

2. Gambling on the fact that you might encounter a situation where you flex out the vehicle and both of your “naked” tires are hanging in the air/loose snow? Now you have to get traction boards or build up a surface to get a “naked” tire to grip? Or swap chains to that tire? If I only chain up my front or rear axle and get stuck, I must build up snow/dirt or get a chained up tire to catch on a traction board. That seems preferable to me.

 

[getcervid]

Why do you have open diffs?

I’ve had both open diffs and locked axles. Currently my 1st Gen tundra is open/open- many other vehicles are too. Why does it matter what I have though…?

If you have a locked axle, isn’t it a no brainer to put chains on your locked axle? A locked axle and chains would be a cheat code. No point in putting them opposite sides, opposite corners when by putting them on the locked axle you guarantee that you always have traction to at least one chained tire.

Now, if you have locked front and rear axles (rare in factory form for most vehicles), I suppose I might look at putting them opposite corners. But it’s still impossible to gauruntee that you always have one chained tire with traction (you may get flexed out).

But, I think I’d lean towards putting them on the axle that had more weight on them. Empty truck bed, put them on the front under the engine. Overloaded rear? Put them on the back axle.

There is also an argument to consider that front tires get the chains first since they presumably get the to the nastiest terrain first.

Also, Lokka (an Australian manufacturer of auto locking differential mechanisms) has some interesting insight on why they recommend locking the front axle first. Part of the advantage, as they see it, is helping the vehicle maintain traction when going uphill. It may apply to tire chains. Read it and let me know what you think.

The guidance is Q10 on Lokka’s FAQ page.

I cannot yet post “links” to that FAQ, needs mod approval when I post links, otherwise I would.