Quality arrows without paying for an expensive “component” system

[Holocene]

Another vote for the Gold Tip .246 arrows.

That includes the Hunter series (Hunter, Hunter XT, and Pro Hunter) and the Ultralight or Velocity series.

Fantastic, classic shafts. Components are great, and you can mix and match to get what you'd like out of an arrow. For example, I use the GT bushing and instead of their .166 nock use a Easton Deep Six nock. Fits my string better.

You could use a standard .256 nock if you like, too.

Get a FACT insert wrench and some of their fact weights and tune the arrow super well to your setup. Very balanced, smart arrows that don't break the bank.

 

[Page Master]

I’m not saying you’re wrong but black eagles website explicitly states not to use hot melt on their arrows…. Don’t know why - just repeating what I read.

I’d just use a 2 part epoxy’s it would accomplish the same thing.

It's because people over use it and get it hot as hell and when they pull out inserts it pulls out the carbon too. Snyder uses the kimsha too. I just use a hand lighter and pull as it warms.

 

[satchamo]

It's because people over use it and get it hot as hell and when they pull out inserts it pulls out the carbon too. Snyder uses the kimsha too. I just use a hand lighter and pull as it warms.

Sounds like you’re on top of it then - just making sure!

 

[LostArra]

.246 arrows

My son inlaw kills deer with purple Ted Nugent Gold Tip arrows from Camofire (I think they are Hunter XTs)

 

[Marble]

I’m wanting to switch things up from the Black Eagles I’ve been shooting last several years. They’ve worked but I’ve been using Renegades and Rampages with the half outs, and they suck. I have heard you can use 5mm Brass HIT inserts with them, but I dry fitted some into a 300 spine renegade and there seemed to be some “slop” to it. Not sure if you just compensate for that with expoxy or glue?
So I am looking for a good quality arrow setup with either HIT or conventional inserts, albeit maybe steel or brass. I don’t want to spend 150 on shafts to turn around and have to spend another 100 on components!!
What are some of the best shaft/ component setups out there that don’t cost an arm and a leg?


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Why not the Axis?


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[sickles107]

Have gone back and forth on the best setup for my needs.

At the end of the day it's hard to compare the cost of any "system" to the simple and proven match grade axis with simple and cheap hit insert. Brass or stainless pending your weight desires.

I think collors are overkill, especially with the associated cost. You can damn near buy 2 dozen axis for the cost of 1 dozen rigged up fancy arrows with collors.

Axis will shoot tight groups into elk vitals all the same. Plan on smashing or losing or an animal breaking a couple arrows a year anyways.

Put financial and mental resources into tuning your bow or getting more time in the woods, rather than a fancy arrow setup.

That's my .02 cents lately

 

[Page Master]

Have gone back and forth on the best setup for my needs.

At the end of the day it's hard to compare the cost of any "system" to the simple and proven match grade axis with simple and cheap hit insert. Brass or stainless pending your weight desires.

I think collors are overkill, especially with the associated cost. You can damn near buy 2 dozen axis for the cost of 1 dozen rigged up fancy arrows with collors.

Axis will shoot tight groups into elk vitals all the same. Plan on smashing or losing or an animal breaking a couple arrows a year anyways.

Put financial and mental resources into tuning your bow or getting more time in the woods, rather than a fancy arrow setup.

That's my .02 cents lately

I bought 3dz Axis a few years ago and broke them all within 3-4mos. Mostly from the front end wearing down shooting into targets. They absolutely need SOMETHING on the front end to not sand themselves down shooting if you are going to shoot any significant amount.

 

[5MilesBack]

I bought 3dz Axis a few years ago and broke them all within 3-4mos. Mostly from the front end wearing down shooting into targets. They absolutely need SOMETHING on the front end to not sand themselves down shooting if you are going to shoot any significant amount.

What kind of targets are you shooting into?

I have a Blob target that I've had for probably 12 years now, it's the most abrasive target material I've seen in a target and I haven't had any issues at all with the ends of any arrows "wearing down" in that time.......let alone 3-4 months.

And normal layered foam targets like the Blocks, or solid foam Rinehart targets are a non issue as well. I still have some Axis 300's that I bought in 2008 that are still perfect on the ends.

 

[Page Master]

What kind of targets are you shooting into?

I have a Blob target that I've had for probably 12 years now, it's the most abrasive target material I've seen in a target and I haven't had any issues at all with the ends of any arrows "wearing down" in that time.......let alone 3-4 months.

And normal layered foam targets like the Blocks, or solid foam Rinehart targets are a non issue as well. I still have some Axis 300's that I bought in 2008 that are still perfect on the ends.

Bags, blocks, 3D's, etc,. They were the camo ''nanotech'' axis 300's. I think half of them were ruined on the front end.

 

[5MilesBack]

Bags, blocks, 3D's, etc,. They were the camo ''nanotech'' axis 300's. I think half of them were ruined on the front end.

The only way I can see what you're describing is if the points were smaller than the arrows. That can wear the arrows down and strip carbon strands off.

 

[Page Master]

The only way I can see what you're describing is if the points were smaller than the arrows. That can wear the arrows down and strip carbon strands off.

Yeah I would have thought so, and initially some were. But after I saw what was happening I got different points to prevent that and make it streamline but I still had issues. The very front of the shaft was micro-splintering on them all. I ended up just getting rid of the ones I had left and started shooting black eagles.

I did not use the little rings easton sells, it was just brass HIT + point.

 

[TheTone]

I wouldn’t call Spartans cheap. They’re the only arrow I’ve ever lost inserts with. The fact the insert flairs out makes them hang up terribly on bag targets.

 

[Holocene]

Axis are a classic arrow, but on the heavy side for a middle of the road carbon shaft.

This means they’ll shoot about 10 fps slower than a lot of arrows out there in an equivalent build. If speed is high up in your wants list, look elsewhere. For example, I can’t get a tuned axis arrow above 275 at my specs (31” draw) and I want to shoot in that 280-285 range. Tried 300 and 260 spine builds, too.

Begin with your end goals in mind, and build an arrow from there. Think about desired speed, Broadhead choice, tolerance for spending money on extra components, etc.

 

[MattB]

I bought 3dz Axis a few years ago and broke them all within 3-4mos. Mostly from the front end wearing down shooting into targets. They absolutely need SOMETHING on the front end to not sand themselves down shooting if you are going to shoot any significant amount.

Did you use a squaring tool? Between that and using field points that are slight oversized compared to the shaft OD I have never had that happen. Not once.

I have taken to using impact collars as well which would likewise prevent that.

 

[Beendare]

Deleted

 

[LONE HUNTER]

The axis are relatively inexpensive heavy enough to blow through a deer and durable enough to pull from the dirt and do it all over again. They do break, but like was said earlier, assemble them correctly and they are very tough. Oh and they are made in America.

 

[Marble]

The only way I can see what you're describing is if the points were smaller than the arrows. That can wear the arrows down and strip carbon strands off.

I agree. I shoot the crap out of mine all year long and have never had that issue.

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[Page Master]

I see a comment like this and just scratch my head.

I'ver been shooting Axis since they came out- over 20 years I would guess. They are one of the most durable shafts out there...IF they are assembled correctly.

I mill the ends of mine on a jig with fine sandpaper. If you use them right off the saw they are crap and don't seat correctly. Look at these Carbon shafts right off the saw under magnification and you will see, they are not uniform making for a crummy mating between shaft and BH.

even with this cell phone pic you can see the difference in the squared shaft Left.....and the right off the saw shaft, right. Milling them creates a strong tight shoulder support where the tip or BH is mated with the shaft.
View attachment 357346
Under a microscope the end of that RH shaft looks like wild uneven hairs right off the saw.

Then there is the insert. I use the long HIT inserts with the strong epoxy. The insert/epoxy combo is engineered as a crucial support surface. Hot melt is a weak alternative that transfers more impact to the end of the shaft. Its no wonder so many guys are having problems- poor arrow assembly.

The finish; If you don't lube the ends of ANY carbon shaft they will wear.

My axis assembled like the above are very durable and have gone years shooting carpet bales and the 3D targets without breaking.

Yeah it was my first attempt at building my own arrows. However, the result was the result, and I won't shoot .204s without something on the end to protect them from impact / friction as a result. I have a $2,000 compound set up and a $1,000 recurve set up, why would I skimp an extra $20-40 on assembling better arrows?

 

[BigWoods]

Not glamorous, but the Beeman ICS 300 spine arrows have been working well for my for just about 3 years. Mine are setup at around 510 grains with a 100grain brass insert. They've proven very robust for the occasional missed target, and when I do my part they stack well (~2-3" @ 70yds).

 

[LONE HUNTER]

Yeah it was my first attempt at building my own arrows. However, the result was the result, and I won't shoot .204s without something on the end to protect them from impact / friction as a result. I have a $2,000 compound set up and a $1,000 recurve set up, why would I skimp an extra $20-40 on assembling better arrows?

Hey nothing wrong with doing things the way you want. And if you feel a component system makes your arrows better then great. That is what you should be doing.

The OP was asking about getting away from a component system and the truth is the Axis can be just fine all on their own if they are assembled correctly.