QD sockets on side of stock

[Marbles]

Is that the Varmint adjustable cheekpiece? If so, how do you like it?

If you are asking about the Kimber in the OP, no. It is a fixed cheekpiece I built onto the stock.

 

[StupidLightweight]

Marbles, please provide more details on your DIY sling. I’d love to roll my own and save money.

 

[Wrench]

I have pulled 2 flush cups installed by mcmillan in the field. My trust for them is low.

 

[Marbles]

I have pulled 2 flush cups installed by mcmillan in the field. My trust for them is low.

I use threaded flush cups, the stock is threaded, then two part epoxy (JB weld, Etc) is back filled so there is a blob supporting the socket in the hollow portion of the stock and it fills in any imperfections in the threading). The stock would have to break for them to pull out.

Note to self, don't waste money on having McMillan install flush cups if I every by a stock from them.

 

[Marbles]

Marbles, please provide more details on your DIY sling. I’d love to roll my own and save money.

For high quality materials, I recommend Whisky Two Four, the one inch webbing I got from them grippy in a way that most webbing is not. I recommend buying thread from them too, it only comes in large spools, but it is significantly stronger than anything I have found at local sewing stores, and unlike braided fishing line, it is not slick and actual has some grip to it, making it hold whatever is being sewn better. I got the thiner A&E Milspec size 46 Tex 45 so it will work in home sewing machines.

Whiskey Two Four

Made in USA gear and components

wtfidea.com

The end that runs off the screen is a fixed length (I use a triglid and loop, I have sized my loop to work as a shooting aid, but it also allows for length adjustment).

The folded over tab prevents the webbing from slipping through ladder lock. It also feels physically different than the braid. Pull the folded webbing and the sling becomes shorter/tighter to the body. Pull the braid and it becomes longer/looser.

 

[Wrench]

I use threaded flush cups, the stock is threaded, then two part epoxy (JB weld, Etc) is back filled so there is a blob supporting the socket in the hollow portion of the stock and it fills in any imperfections in the threading). The stock would have to break for them to pull out.

Note to self, don't waste money on having McMillan install flush cups if I every by a stock from them.

That's essentially how they do it. Thread them in and epoxy in place.

 

[Marbles]

That's essentially how they do it. Thread them in and epoxy in place.

How does it pull out? Does it rip part of the stock out? I'm pretty sure in a pull test the QD sockets I have installed would hold better than most traditional sling studs I have removed from stocks.

 

[Blackdog317]

I have pulled 2 flush cups installed by mcmillan in the field. My trust for them is low.

Well crap...

I just ordered a McMillan with 2 flush cups on the left side. Your post is not a confidence builder. Can you share any more details? How long ago did it happen? What caused them to pull? Did you contact McMillan or fix them yourself?

Thanks

 

[Wrench]

I ripped the last one out this last season on an edge stock. I was done with them at that point and installed swivels in devcon.

 

[Marbles]

I ripped the last one out this last season on an edge stock. I was done with them at that point and installed swivels in devcon.

I'm not understanding the logic. A 9/16-18 thread (QD cup) set in epoxy will be stronger than a 10-32 thread (sling swivel at 3/16th diameter) set in epoxy due to having more surface area, this would be true even if using a wood screw sling stud.

If you are ripping out the QD cup, but not the sling stud, then McMillian screwed the pooch pretty hard on their install.

 

[Wrench]

I'm not understanding the logic. A 9/16-18 thread (QD cup) set in epoxy will be stronger than a 10-32 thread (sling swivel at 3/16th diameter) set in epoxy due to having more surface area, this would be true even if using a wood screw sling stud.

If you are ripping out the QD cup, but not the sling stud, then McMillian screwed the pooch pretty hard on their install.

View attachment 674632

A tee nut has WAAAY more surface area than the threads on the 5/16 or screw. I back bored the stock for a tee nut and devcon filled the old hole.

You'll pull the threads on the tee nut long before the stock yields to it.

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

Any concerns about lateral force (from carrying, not while shooting) on the fore end of a wood stock with a side-mounted sling?

 

[Macintosh]

I use a chest sling like this a lot with a pack when Im tracking. Its a bit of a pain, but its way better than the alternative, mainly allows me to drop the gun in place and have both hands free to part brush, scramble up steep wet leaves, etc. actually my bino harness is a lot more of a pain than the pack. I dont really use it anywhere except tracking and still hunting in steep terrain. Ive not had an issue with tearing out invluding in some falls where I put a lot of load on the stud, but mine all either have the backer inside a plastic stock, or they are tapped and threaded into walnut and then epoxied in place.

 

[Marbles]

Any concerns about lateral force (from carrying, not while shooting) on the fore end of a wood stock with a side-mounted sling?

I would expect strength to be about the same as with a traditional sling location. I don't have any wood stocks though, so have not tested it.

 

[fwafwow]

I would expect strength to be about the same as with a traditional sling location. I don't have any wood stocks though, so have not tested it.

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