PSA Tikka Barrel removal

I've often read about he dreaded amount of torque used to install the factory barrels. Out of curiosity, what torque will you use when you reinstall?
I have a kind of janky torque wrench so I run it up to a bit over 100ft lbs. I like to be able to remove them/switch them with the inside action wrench and that 100ish lbs hasn't been an issue at all.
 
I run mine around 100 foot pounds.

Removed two barrels this week one t3x and one t3. The t3 required a lot more force, I used the short action customs barrel vise with drywall tape. Never had one spin using this set up. 24” proto torque wrench spins them right off no cheater pipe or hammer required. OMR internal wrench.
 
Yes I read a lot of that too. But also saw some had success with the bug holes specifically so i figured it try it first before ordering an exterior one too.
I tried using the interior wrench on a howa and it snapped in a second, I know it’s a different style but I think most are made to fail at a lower torque to avoid damage
 
Tikka barrels aren't hard at all...my process for 7+ barrels goes like this.....

-barrel vice with thin cardboard to prevent marring
-external action wrench or adjustable wrench tightened on the flats of the action
-put tension on action wrench and hit with 3 lb sledge (the barrel will spin if you don't use blunt force)

Works without fuss every time.
 
I haven’t removed a Tikka barrel yet, but I did remove a Remington this past year. I couldn’t get the wood blocks tight enough to stop it from spinning. As soon as I added the lead shims and resin Wheeler sell it spun off without any further fuss.
 
The worst one I have seen was a Remington 700 7mm RM. I yielded to the relief cut which did not help but a 36 did the job. The tenon threads were a mess, it must have caught a sliver when the gorilla cranked it on at the factory. I should have cut it off and bored it out. Live and learn I guess.
 
Tikka barrel removal today was my roughest yet. Older T3 in .243 that was barely shot. After letting the penetrating oil do it's thing for a couple days, I proceeded as I usually do. Tightened down evenly in my SAC vise with drywall tape around barrel and used an external wheeler wrench with a cheater bar on the action. Initially the barrel spun on maybe the 10 whack with my hammer. I was able to tighten the vise a touch more using the cheater bar and ratchet and that did the trick. Barrel has marks from spinning, but otherwise no major damage.
 
Tikka barrel removal today was my roughest yet. Older T3 in .243 that was barely shot. After letting the penetrating oil do it's thing for a couple days, I proceeded as I usually do. Tightened down evenly in my SAC vise with drywall tape around barrel and used an external wheeler wrench with a cheater bar on the action. Initially the barrel spun on maybe the 10 whack with my hammer. I was able to tighten the vise a touch more using the cheater bar and ratchet and that did the trick. Barrel has marks from spinning, but otherwise no major damage.
Glad you were able to get it off!
 
May have to give this a go sometime. Have too many irons in the fire, but eventually will swap out the barrel on my .223 CTR. Only sitting at around 1400 rounds down the tube so still have some time haha.
 
Tikka barrels aren't hard at all...my process for 7+ barrels goes like this.....

-barrel vice with thin cardboard to prevent marring
-external action wrench or adjustable wrench tightened on the flats of the action
-put tension on action wrench and hit with 3 lb sledge (the barrel will spin if you don't use blunt force)

Works without fuss every time.
Dont try to get fancy with stuff to protect the action,

This will create slop and you’ll end up bending/rolling the action edge

At least I did.
 
Here is my experience. I used a block and vise setup vertically like the OP did in his bottom right picture.

BUT, I took 2 pieces soft pure lead (54 round ball) and hammered them flat. Then I degreased the barrel, coated it with powdered sugar, and put each lead piece on each side of the barrel under the wood blocks to act as a collar.

Before attempting to remove the barrel, I put the barreled action in the freezer for a bit. Then quickly mounted it up and tighten it down and gently heated the action near the barrel with a torch, and gave the external action wrench handle a quick whack. Popped loose easily
 
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