Presses

[BRTreedogs]

What are you measuring with?

Digital calipers, with the cbto tool bushing.

 

[1badDart]

Digital calipers, with the cbto tool bushing.

I do the same. Do you know the accuracy of your caliper? My Mitutoyo 6" is +/- .001", even though all measurements read the same the batch could be off .002".

 

[BRTreedogs]

I do the same. Do you know the accuracy of your caliper? My Mitutoyo 6" is +/- .001", even though all measurements read the same the batch could be off .002".

Sure sure.
But that further proves my point.
If the press and the calipers both could have errors, well that could be a double error.

 

[1badDart]

Sure sure.
But that further proves my point.
If the press and the calipers both could have errors, well that could be a double error.

Yes, stacking. I use an old Rock Chucker, what I've found to make the biggest difference is how I cycle the handle. I suspect that's true regardless of the press.

If my math is close, to make .001" difference in shoulder bump (assuming the brass spring back is exactly the same, and we all know it's not) the die needs to be rotated about .043". This would be looking at the die from the top, like moving the hand on a clock. When I screw my die down and the lock ring makes contact, I can't turn it .043" by hand and I suspect it would take several foot pounds of torque to move it that far with a wrench. For bullet seating I use RCBS Competition micrometer seating dies.

 

[Gila]

I do the same. Do you know the accuracy of your caliper? My Mitutoyo 6" is +/- .001", even though all measurements read the same the batch could be off .002".

My Mitutoyo is very accurate. I bump the shoulder .002 as most of us do. If we are off by .002 then we are all shooting ourselves in the foot aren't we?

 

[BRTreedogs]

My Mitutoyo is very accurate. I bump the shoulder .002 as most of us do. If we are off by .002 then we are all shooting ourselves in the foot aren't we?

View attachment 503981

Depends if it didn't bump at all for some reason they may not chamber.

I loaded 150 rounds of brass fires in a different rifle and they won't chamber.

 

[Gila]

Sure sure.
But that further proves my point.
If the press and the calipers both could have errors, well that could be a double error.

I measured the differences between my spare turrets and it is +/- a fly's butt.

 

[Gila]

Depends if it didn't bump at all for some reason they may not chamber.

I loaded 150 rounds of brass fires in a different rifle and they won't chamber.

When you get started, check a dummy round for chambering just in case the measurement is off. I wouldn't worry about spring-back because it measures what it is. My chamber head spaces at .275 and it doesn't matter what brand of brass, all will fire form to .275. If you want some insurance, then just bump it back .004 and give it a try. You will be working the brass a little more, but if you anneal it shouldn't matter.

 

[Gila]

The only way I can see there would be a difference then is if your seating stem is pressing on the tips rather then the ogive.
The ogive should be very consistent.

If you get a quality seating die, you can replace the seating stem for the shape of your bullet. I have three different seating stems in .308 and the one that fits the nose of the bullet correctly goes in the die.

 

[1badDart]

My Mitutoyo is very accurate. I bump the shoulder .002 as most of us do. If we are off by .002 then we are all shooting ourselves in the foot aren't we?

That .002" I mentioned would be .001 under to .001" over. I don't know a single hunting rifle that would shoot different with that range.

Please post a photo of the back side of the head on your calipers so we can see the models.

 

[Gila]

I loaded 150 rounds of brass fires in a different rifle and they won't chamber.

I missed this part...If your dies are properly setup to bump .002 for your chamber, you will need to resize the brass fired in another chamber with your dies. You should have measured the headspace on the fired brass before you resized it. Then you would have known if the headspace was greater than your chamber. If the brass fired in another rifle head-spaces >.001 less than your chamber, then it is all moot.

 

[Gila]

Mitutoyo digital caliper 500-752-20

 

[1badDart]

That's a good one.

 

[BRTreedogs]

I mite of made up all that in my head.
But I do want a larger opening press.
300 win with comp dies.
I have to snake the bullet In

 

[goat73]

Ive ran an RCBS Rock chucked for 25 years. Over the last few years, I’ve invested an embarrassing amount time researching and debating between the Forster Co-Ax and Redding T-7. I like the set it and forget advantage of the T-7, as I load for several calibers anyhow. But the Forster is somewhat the same once dies are set…

Does anyone have any specific negative experience with either press?

I don't have any experience with a T-7, but can say I really like my Co-Ax. This was actually my first press ever, so don't have comparisons vs anything else either. However, my brother reloads and a lot of my decisions have been based on his feedback and experience using both progressive and single-stage presses.

Looking back, I imagine I spent a lot more money on my setup than I could have. The accessories and dedicated die rings add up to the investment. However, I consider these time-saver items which are huge to me. I often find myself with only a few hours on a weekend to load something due to life (kids activities, chores, etc). If I was at a later stage in my life, I imagine I would have a lot more time to sit in front of my press.

I suggest using their aluminum die rings since other brands are steel. I would rather have a die ring wear, than the slots in my press. As mentioned, these get expensive so suggest buying in bulk packs.

I also dislike the priming feature. I used it for the first year and it does work well. However, I found I'm much more efficient using a hand-priming tool. I have an RCBS hand-primer which I estimate requires 30-50% the time that using the Co-Ax does.

Last 'dislikes' of the press, looking back, is hand accessibility and lighting. I used the press for about a year and then added a lighting kit and some redesigned linkage bars. My eyesight is terrible and the LED lights help so much. Links to each of these items are below.

https://www.amazon.com/KMS%C2%B2-Reloading-Press-Light-Forster/dp/B07X7KDSM8?th=1

Forster Co-Ax Increased Access Side Linkage's. - Inline Fabrication

For reloaders that need a little more room when loading and unloading the shellholder. These have been very well received/reviewed...

inlinefabrication.com

Hope this helps with your decision. If you can afford it, I don't think you'll have any regrets.

Best of luck

 

[WestFlint]

I don't have any experience with a T-7, but can say I really like my Co-Ax. This was actually my first press ever, so don't have comparisons vs anything else either. However, my brother reloads and a lot of my decisions have been based on his feedback and experience using both progressive and single-stage presses.

Looking back, I imagine I spent a lot more money on my setup than I could have. The accessories and dedicated die rings add up to the investment. However, I consider these time-saver items which are huge to me. I often find myself with only a few hours on a weekend to load something due to life (kids activities, chores, etc). If I was at a later stage in my life, I imagine I would have a lot more time to sit in front of my press.

I suggest using their aluminum die rings since other brands are steel. I would rather have a die ring wear, than the slots in my press. As mentioned, these get expensive so suggest buying in bulk packs.

I also dislike the priming feature. I used it for the first year and it does work well. However, I found I'm much more efficient using a hand-priming tool. I have an RCBS hand-primer which I estimate requires 30-50% the time that using the Co-Ax does.

Last 'dislikes' of the press, looking back, is hand accessibility and lighting. I used the press for about a year and then added a lighting kit and some redesigned linkage bars. My eyesight is terrible and the LED lights help so much. Links to each of these items are below.

https://www.amazon.com/KMS%C2%B2-Reloading-Press-Light-Forster/dp/B07X7KDSM8?th=1

Forster Co-Ax Increased Access Side Linkage's. - Inline Fabrication

For reloaders that need a little more room when loading and unloading the shellholder. These have been very well received/reviewed...

inlinefabrication.com

Hope this helps with your decision. If you can afford it, I don't think you'll have any regrets.

Best of luck

Great information, thanks so much!

 

[Chili_Goose]

New to Rockslide. I am just looking at getting into reloading. I have a lot of different calibers that warrent this move. I have been looking at the RCBS Summit. This is very different from other presses. Just wanting your thoughts on if this is a good first press or not. RCBS has a kit that I was entertaining.

 

[JD Jones]

I use a Forster coax. In the future I am going for the area 419. I’m not ashamed to admit that the look is what initially sold me but in all reality it seems overbuilt and will last a lifetime. It’s feature rich and making ammo on a pice of art is just fun

 

[MallardSX2]

And I thought my wife was OCD. Some of you guys take the cake by a LOOOOOOONG shot. lol

Filthy Rockchucker guy here. And if I didn't get a screaming deal, I would be using a LEE. Blasphemy!

Meh, I got walls full of animals....so whatever.

 

[BRTreedogs]

And I thought my wife was OCD. Some of you guys take the cake by a LOOOOOOONG shot. lol

Filthy Rockchucker guy here. And if I didn't get a screaming deal, I would be using a LEE. Blasphemy!

Meh, I got walls full of animals....so whatever.

Man you're awesome.
I wish I could be as cool as you.