This works good.Get these "j" hooks the "A" shaped leg connector for cheap and some black iron pipe from most hardware stores, with caps and hang a plate most anywhere.
Fire hose works well too for hanging, can sometimes get it free, quiet, takes many hits.I bought a 10” plate from Walmart, added a piece of chain and two sets of bolts, nuts and washers. I have taken it to the woods several times and hung it from various trees. I think the entire cost was under $50.
These hooks aren't the save all either. Plate will hop off the hook, or twist off.Pipe Hook Target Hanger
CNC Laser cut SR500+ steel construction. Barbed hook keeps your target secure without dampening its ring like chain, belt or springs. Thicker construction than the comepetitions keep your hooks from bending. Optional locking bolt (included) keeps your targets in place guaranteed! Slides onto...www.atlastargetworks.com
Iv got a bunch of stuff from the above company, a recreational shooter probably won’t ever wear out one of those hooks.
I have his portable ar500 post as well that’s taken an absolute beating and has held up with zero issues.
Chain and fire hose will fail, and bolts in your targets will fail, or make the target fail.
With the style books you posted that can be an issue. But with the above you can lock the target on with a bolt, at the rear of the target so it dosnt get shot up. His prior design was a square peg and has been issue free for me when it comes to target failures.These hooks aren't the save all either. Plate will hop off the hook, or twist off.
Using carriage bolts vs regular hex bolts will help a ton as they deflect much better. Chain will take much less hits than fire hose, but for a guy that is going out setting up and taking down all of these will work well.
With the hooks we have doubled them up (opposing) before to try to keep plates from coming of the hooks
That would help, being able to thread a locking bolt inWith the style books you posted that can be an issue. But with the above you can lock the target on with a bolt, at the rear of the target so it dosnt get shot up. His prior design was a square peg and has been issue free for me when it comes to target failures.
If we strat talking cardboard then think about this.I have tried the "A" style brackets with conduit, I've found if you don't bolt/pin them then they collapse and its funky setting them up to a degree. Also depending on the distance and caliber they can flip if not anchored. Frankly I found them less than ideal to tote around a loose pile of pipes.
I have been using these light stanley saw horses to easily set up and hold a cardboard sheet (its all connected together and folds up so its easy to deploy) for targets. I added some anchors to the feet and tried them with steel plates but the bullet splash is eating into the thin gauge metal quickly. I've ordered some pieces of 1/16" thick steel box tube to replace the pieces with to see if that holds up better. TBD if beefing up the steel legs/cross body work but I absolutely found carrying and deploying these far more desirable than the "A" brackets and conduit.
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I’m often shooting in grasslands so not much ballast without a shovel so the sawhorses work well for cardboard.If we strat talking cardboard then think about this.
Take a five gallon bucket, cut top down 4 or 5", slip your cardboard in the cuts. If you need to paint a 10" circle like for cold bore challenge the back you can use as a template.
-on the way to the outdoors you can throw paint or stapler targets whatever in your bucket.
-Use whatever is sitting around for weight to anchor the bucket down at shooting spot like rocks, bark, dirt.
-on way home can store your trash and range gear.