Pinning and welding…a bolt action?

[ramsdude47]

Hopefully this doesn’t become the dumbest question of the decade, but I’m very green when it comes to suppressors.

In the next month I plan to have my Kimber Hunter chopped and threaded to use with a Nomad TI that is currently in jail. My goal with this setup is to achieve minimum overall length and weight. I couldn’t find anything (anywhere) about cutting a barrel on a bolt action under 16”. I’m thinking there is probably good reason for that, but just have no clue. In my head if I cut to 13.9” and pin and weld a flash hider I’m looking at 2” shorter and possibly 4 oz lighter.

So with that, other than resale immediately plummeting, what else am I missing here?

 

[WeiserBucks]

You're missing nothing, do it if it's what suits your needs. Double check that your muffler is rated for that barrel length.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

The ability to remove and clean your can comes to mind, also you can get AR barrels designed to pin and weld, I've never heard of such a thing for a bolt gun.

2" and 4 oz just doesn't in any way make sense to me given the trade offs.
I'll bet that last 2" costs you close to 100 fps vs a 16" barrel, velocity loss gets extreme when you get that short from the testing I've seen.

 

[ramsdude47]

I wouldn’t P/W the can on, it would be DM on a flash hider. My main concern would be the integrity of that mount setup.

I’m not too concerned about velocity / ballistics, I have bigger rifles if needed.

 

[SOIHUNT]

You may want to check a barrel length under 16” is considered a SBR which requires a federal stamp.

 

[WeiserBucks]

You may want to check a barrel length under 16” is considered a SBR which requires a federal stamp.

That's the whole point of pin/weld, no stamp because it's permanent length.

 

[justinspicher]

I’d be willing to bet that your addition of a suppressor will make up for the loss of velocity you are losing when you cut that 2” off your barrel. I haven’t done it with a bolt gun, but the velocity difference in my AR’s is minimal from 13.7” to 16” with the suppressor added. I say go for it, but like it was stated before, double check the rating for your suppressor/caliber/min barrel length……just to be sure you are good to go.

 

[Weldor]

I have shot 16" to 22" 308 and 6.5 prc's and there will be a loss of velocity. I had a 16 " 6.5 creedmore velocity was dismal. Right now on a 20" prc I'm getting 2773 with 140's. Factory norma same rifle 2660. The 308's average 2300 -2600 16 in. 18" 2750 average. That's running a Harvester and Banish 30. Not sure of your caliber, but its something to think about. Regards.

 

[TxLite]

It sounds like you’ve pretty much covered all your bases. If done correctly the integrity would be better than a standard qd brake that’s threaded on. As has been said, verify that your suppressor can handle the cartridge at the barrel length you’re intending to cut to

 

[ramsdude47]

6.5 Creedmoor. I'm not worried about velocity loss, this would not be used for long range shots.

Directly from Form on an older post on short barreled 6.5CM
"I have used a 12.5” 6.5 CM quite a bit- works great."

 

[thedutchtouch]

I've never heard of that done outside of AR builds but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen, just my anecdotal experience. my unsolicited opinion - it seems like a lot to do for dropping 2 inches, where switching to a chassis/folding stock would have more packability/length gains (er...losses?) but to each their own, post some photos if/when you do it.

 

[Bluefish]

I get that this is to avoid making a sbr, but as asked above, why not just go the sbr route? It’s $200 and a 1-2 month wait. Then you can use any barrel you want. you already have an nfa account due to having a silencer, so it’s not like you are unknown to the atf.
Only down side is if you want to travel, but it’s always an option to swap back to a non sbr configuration to travel.

 

[gtriple]

I considered doing recently for a 308 build but decided against it. You could also probably chop 1"-2" off the stock without making it unusable. And you could shorten the forend.

 

[Unckebob]

I have a regular Nomad can and would not pin/weld because any compatible muzzle device and adapter are going to add more weight than you save.

IMO - the direct thread option is the way to go. My 270 with a 20" barrel, and the Nomad feels very handy.

If you cut the Kimber barrel back to 16", your combined package would be under 22" long and the rifle would be very light.

Good luck with your project whatever you decide.

 

[ramsdude47]

Direct thread would be my preferred option as well but due to the barrel diameter I would be looking at 1/2x28, and an adaptor.

I didn’t realize that you can’t just mount a suppressor onto a flash hider and need some kind of extra adaptor there as well . I suppose that makes it an easier decision.

 

[Formidilosus]

Direct thread would be my preferred option as well but due to the barrel diameter I would be looking at 1/2x28, and an adaptor.

That’s easy. There is nothing wrong with using a 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adaptor.

I didn’t realize that you can’t just mount a suppressor onto a flash hider and need some kind of extra adaptor there as well . I suppose that makes it an easier decision.

You can mount directly to a flash hider depending on suppressor and mount.

 

[turbobrick]

Direct thread would be my preferred option as well but due to the barrel diameter I would be looking at 1/2x28, and an adaptor.

I didn’t realize that you can’t just mount a suppressor onto a flash hider and need some kind of extra adaptor there as well . I suppose that makes it an easier decision.

You could use this Griffin flash suppressor, its designed to pin and weld, you could go all the way down to 14.75" with it. Looks like the 1/2-28 is OOS right now, but a distributor may have one on hand.
flash suppressor

Then thread this into your Nomad.
HUB adapter

You have to double check that the internal volume of the can will accept that flash hider, that is why I linked the longer adapter, if you have enough room you can use the shorter one. This is just one option, there are many ways to do what you're looking to do.

 

[CaptArab]

If you compare the length and weight of keymo 13.9 + can vs direct thread 16" + can you'll leave it at 16.

It might make sense to save an inch with the tbac cb brakes but they're not long so it'll be minimal.

13.7/13.9 really only makes sense if you're running a surefire mini or sandman k and trying to skirt SBR legalities.

Direct 16" is better for a hunting bolt and 12.5 for the SBR.

Once you go adding keymo / xeno to a can + muzzle device, you're back where you started length wise but with another pound up front.

A nomad ti on a 16" Montana will still be handy.
I have most all of the above and I'm speaking from experience.

I've thought all this through extensively and I'm darn close to form 1ing a Tikka action for a 12.5" 6.5 creedmoor + nomad L whitetail rig.

 

[Boltgun]

Love the idea. Suppressed rifles are great, but long rifles are a hassle.

P/W or SBR, either way post up some pics! Sounds like a sweet little hunting rifle!

 

[6.5x284]

I'd Form 1 it and rock a two stamp gun! If you submit your Form 1 now, you'll still have it back before your suppressor is out of jail. I want to do a 8" blackout on a bolt action for shits and freedom.