Pic rail bonding question

[WeiserBucks]

Getting ready to install a pic rail and curious if I should scuff up the bottom of the rail to give the adhesive more grip? It's smooth as glass and I think it needs a bit of tooth? Pinned rail if it matters at all.

 

[IDHUNTER]

I scuffed mine up before bonding and it's working great. I don't see any downside.

 

[ghott]

Not sure if it's "correct" or not - but I always scuff the bottom of my rails with a dark red scotch bright and then clean them with acetone before epoxy bedding. It's worked well so far

 

[WeiserBucks]

Secondary question, Loctite 380 specific. What has worked for you guys to clean up the spooge that gets forced out upon tightening the fasteners? I've used q-tips dipped in WD-40 in the past for various epoxys.

 

[IdahoBeav]

I used Q-tips and acetone, but this was with JB Weld as an adhesive. I did not score the bottom of the rail, and it turned out great.

 

[bowrunner81]

I used the 380 black stuff. I wiped both down with Acetone and used Q-Tips and Acetone to clean up the edges as well. But, I would go light on the Acetone and not soak them. You don’t want Acetone to get in between the rail and the action because it supposedly will loosen up the material…which can aid in removal someday if you want to.

 

[WeiserBucks]

I have zero intention of removing the rail, ever.

 

[bowrunner81]

I have zero intention of removing the rail, ever.

Then I’d try to stay out of the gap with your acetone… I got a little to soak in between my rail and action but it still seemed to adhere good.

 

[wind gypsy]

Holy piss, that loctite 380 is $42 for 0.1 oz!? Is that all you need for a rail? I've only used Jb weld to bed rails and I assumed it was more than 0.1 oz but that wasn't on a flat to flat interface like a tikka.

 

[IdahoBeav]

I have zero intention of removing the rail, ever.

In that case, get a tig welder and do it right!

 

[WeiserBucks]

In that case, get a tig welder and do it right!

If you can Tig aluminum to stainless I'm all ears!!!

 

[WeiserBucks]

Holy piss, that loctite 380 is $42 for 0.1 oz!? Is that all you need for a rail? I've only used Jb weld to bed rails and I assumed it was more than 0.1 oz but that wasn't on a flat to flat interface like a tikka.

I got two little tubes for $30ish dollars, don't remember exactly.

 

[bowrunner81]

From the manufacture - 3. Excess adhesive can be dissolved with Loctite cleanup solvents, nitromethane or acetone

 

[Axlrod]

Holy piss, that loctite 380 is $42 for 0.1 oz!? Is that all you need for a rail? I've only used Jb weld to bed rails and I assumed it was more than 0.1 oz but that wasn't on a flat to flat interface like a tikka.

On Amazon the .1 oz is $16, the 1 oz is $44. I never balk at the price of something that works well, and I don't know how to make myself!

 

[wind gypsy]

On Amazon the .1 oz is $16, the 1 oz is $44. I never balk at the price of something that works well, and I don't know how to make myself!

Good to know. Maybe a typo here:

 

[WeiserBucks]

 

[BlackTail]

For you guys that are “permanently” bonding your rails to the action, what do you do as far as torquing the screws? I’ve always bedded my rails using a release agent and just snugged up the screws until the bedding cured. Then I’d come back and clean up all the release agent, Loctite the screws, and then torque to spec. For a permanently bonded rail are you guys torquing the screws the first time around?

 

[WeiserBucks]

For a permanently bonded rail are you guys torquing the screws the first time around?

Yes, then pull em out one at a time and make sure they're clean, reinstall with threadlocker of your choice.

 

[Bowfinn]

This is what I used to bond my pic rails. I’m pretty sure it’s simply rebranded 380 at a significant discount. I was impressed with the bond when I tried to take off pic rail without heat. I wish I did a drop test with no screws holding the rail down. I think it might have held up to the impacts.