Photos & lessons learned from my first (cow, rifle, backpack) elk hunt

Troutnut

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Sep 14, 2016
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After making mule deer my priority in my first four years hunting the normal West after moving from Alaska, and finally tasting success last year with a pretty 150-class buck, I set my sights on my first elk in 2021. My original, naive plan was to go for an early-season cow elk for some easy meat, freeing me from the pressure of an empty freezer so I could be picky during deer season. It didn't quite work that way.

The long drive from western Washington was filled with elk hunting podcasts (last-minute cramming for the test), plus one massive adrenaline jolt at dusk when a large bull moose sprinted in front of me. I drive with more wariness about animal collisions than most people because I grew up running a gauntlet of kamikaze whitetails to get to school, and if I hadn't been taking it slow my Jeep would be totaled. Very narrow miss.

As with any good hunting trip, first things first. Trout fishing.

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However, I was so determined to get an elk that I intentionally stopped fishing. The afternoon before the opener I hiked into the backcountry, enjoying peak fall colors.

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The drainage I'd chosen had no obvious water sources, so it was a long slog up the mountain carrying 7 liters beyond the first couple miles. There wasn't much elk sign until I was a few miles back from the road and started picking up occasional old tracks and scat. Toward dark, faint hints of distant bugles echoed their way into my valley from indistinct directions. I saw goats, but no elk.

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I woke up two hours before shooting light to the sound of multiple cows mewing at each other, some within 100 yards of my tent. I lay motionless to avoid spooking them, in case they were not acclimated to the sound of Therma-a-rest's warmest, crinkliest sleeping pad. When they had quieted down for a while, I suited up and trudged up the finger ridge toward my planned glassing spot. However, this hill had grown since I last looked at it on the map, and first light arrived before I neared the top. I settled in to glass, thinking this view was good enough.

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I spent the early morning hours watching the sun slowly light up an alpine basin that was as pretty as it was devoid of elk. When I finally climbed to the top of the ridge where I meant to be at first light, I crossed paths with the only other hunters in the basin, a young couple traveling lighter and faster than me with supplies for a single night up high. They had been in position to see the elk I heard before shooting light, a sizable herd that wandered up the basin on the opposite side of the finger ridge where I was glassing. I would have seen them if I'd gone to the top, but they were gone now.

At 10 am some clanging rocks called my attention to a cow and two calves in a hurry, moving up my basin. The other hunters probably bumped them hiking out. They were never closer than 600 yards, and I couldn't follow without losing sight of them, but that seemed like my best bet at any kind of action, so I moved up the basin to see if they had stopped.

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I spent the afternoon picking apart every tree and bush with my binoculars, but the elk--as I later learned from tracks--were long gone.

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The evening and the next morning were quiet. I spent the morning glassing from the bottom center of the basin, thinking this way at least I'd be in range of anything moving up or down on either side. Nothing moved.

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That afternoon I climbed to the top of my basin, planning to camp up high at least once and then drop down into another basin with a better chance of drinking water and hopefully elk.

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I had a good view of the side basin that held some elk on opening morning while I was on the wrong side of the ridge to find them.

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Troutnut

Troutnut

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The top of the basin had a gift for me: water! It trickled only briefly above ground at the tip top of the drainage. I was camped near some fantastic glassing views, but I couldn’t stay more than one night without a refill. I had to dig a hole and pump slowly while the spring refilled it, but it worked.

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The next morning brought high hopes as I could see far into multiple high basins, but the elk just weren’t there.

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Although I had water to stay up there, I realized it might be better to hunt elk in a place with elk, not just old elk sign. So I dropped into the new basin and kept going downhill.

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Beyond the alpine meadows, I found a promising trial not especially close to where OnX said it should be.

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The trail was a mirage, beautiful one minute and vanishing the next, or forking into several equal game trails that veered off in different directions and never rejoined.

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For a few miles I was mostly bushwhacking on game trails and trying to avoid cliffs.

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I planned to stop if I found a spot that seemed worth hunting, but none did, and I ended the day at the car 4,000 feet below where I started, with ten more real miles on my boots, glad I hadn’t shot an elk high up the drainage I walked out.
 
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Troutnut

Troutnut

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It was time to hit the reset button. You know what I mean.

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The next afternoon I walked in to some easier country of a different character.

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I camped just below the peak of a small mountain with great views in every direction, overlooking countless miles of supposed elk habitat, but seeing no sign on the ground.

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Finally, I spotted some elk. Two of them, well over a mile away, were feeding along one of the dozens of miles of timber edges I could see from my glassing perch just above camp.

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I marked them in the fading light to relocate in the morning. At first light, I found more elk (at least four, wow!) feeding just above the bottom of a small valley not far from the ones I spotted the previous evening. I glassed a few more minutes to make sure I wasn’t missing other options, then raced down the ridge to try to catch those elk before they disappeared into the timber.

When I got there, they had disappeared into the timber.

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Troutnut

Troutnut

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However, the hike down the hill was not for nought. There was a very well-used wallow on the edge of a meadow in the valley bottom.

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I was getting frustrated that my familiar spot-and-stalk tactics didn’t seem promising in this country, because in order to spot an elk I had to be too far away to stalk it. However, I had been practicing and studying up on calling using the Paul Medel's ElkNut app. I figured if they were using this timber and moving around feeding in different places, calling them out was my only reasonable chance to get one, so I’d try that for a day or two and then call it a hunt.

The wallow was the perfect place to try, being set on the edge of a nice meadow.

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I put my trust in the Elknut’s advice (how could a Troutnut not?) and spent about ten minutes early in the evening raising a ruckus at that wallow, swinging around a big dead log smashing things and splashing water all over the place, all while trying to project various cow and calf calls off in different directions. This was not at all the quiet way I had learned to hunt, but I could see the logic to it.

My rookie calling is very inconsistent. I get a great tones at times, but then (especially with the first call from a dry mouth) I squawk out something not so great. I wasn’t sure if any elk listening up in the timber would receive my intended message — “Hey everyone! Elk pool party!” — or if they’d give away their position by inventing elk laughter just for me. Or maybe they’d hear the good and bad calls and conclude that a real group of elk was down there torturing a squirrel to death.

After making enough noise to wake elk across half the unit, I sat back on the edge of the meadow, sending out a couple mews every few minutes to keep things interesting, all the while unsure if I was hunting in a way that was clever or completely ridiculous.

Leaves rustled. Squirrels did squirrel things. Birds did bird things. They all had me looking around for elk. Then, as if from a sixth sense, I got a feeling something different was happening, though I couldn't pinpoint a specific unusual noise. I randomly glanced at three small fir trees a few feet to my left, which formed a thick barrier I couldn’t see through at all, except for a few little gaps the size of a quarter held at arm’s length. Framed in one of those tiny round gaps, perfectly still, like an ornament on a Christmas tree, was the silhouette of a cow elk’s head--staring right at me.

She couldn’t see me, but she was intensely searching for the source of the calls. After a minute that felt like ten, she continued up toward the wallow where I’d made the most noise, curiously walking closer and closer to my intended shooting lane… then stopped a few yards shy. I’ve heard many times that elk get suspicious when the expect to see other elk but don't. She had that look. Was she about to bolt any second now?

I didn’t have the shot I planned for, but I had a shot, and at 60 yards with a 300 WSM, what could go wrong? I fired. She bucked and ran. I put an unnecessary second shot into her without damaging too much meat, just to be sure. That dropped her just feet from a clean trickling creek.

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It was getting close to dark when I started cutting, and I finished around 2 am and packed the meat to a cache near a decent trail to get it away from the kill site. I’m glad nobody was around to be disturbed by all the random nonsense I shouted into the darkness to keep grizzlies from getting any ideas. There probably weren’t any nearby, but it’s good to be careful when solo in their country at night and covered in elk blood.

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I enjoyed sleeping past sunrise in camp for once, then packed the meat 4 1/2 miles back to the road in three uneventful trips over the next two days. The only predator who came around was a very happy pine marten.

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I imagine some of you have figured out roughly where I was from the photos, but I doubt I'm "hot spotting" a unit by revealing that I eventually found a cow elk after a week of intense effort. They are not rare animals, except apparently when I have a tag for one in my pocket.

As for my plan to shoot an elk so I could be picky hunting deer, I ended up buying a new freezer and still barely having room for the elk, let alone a deer. And the elk hunt and processing wrapped up just a few days before deer season, when I was sick of driving and had to catch up on work. So I just sat on my deer tag.

Next fall I’ll be in a different unit trying for my first bull. Santa apparently forgave my past transgressions against Rangifer tarandus and hooked me up with a bugle tube to start learning that game. :)
 
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RCB

WKR
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Enjoyed the list of lessons from your mule deer hunt. Got any here?
 
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Troutnut

Troutnut

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Enjoyed the list of lessons from your mule deer hunt. Got any here?

Yeah. Surely many of these are well known to experienced elk hunters, and I've read or heard most of them on websites/podcasts plenty of times, but these are still the things that really sank in when I experienced them firsthand.

Elk lessons:
  • Calling is fun, and it's useful for a lot more than just hunting bulls during the rut, which was my impression of it before I started studying for this hunt.
  • Calling can be an elaborate process of making all the required commotion to sound like an elk or a bunch of elk, not just their vocalizations.
  • Make plans compatible with covering a lot of ground by foot & glass, because elk can really group up and move around a lot, being here one day and gone the next from an entire drainage.
  • At certain times in the fall, elk can apparently really abandon the glass-able high basins and hole up in the lower timber, and I need to be prepared with tactics to hunt that country too. However, if I had just gone randomly looking for elk in the low timber I doubt I would have found them either. The winning combination this time was spotting from afar to locate an area they were generally using, then going in there to find a good piece of habitat and calling over it.
  • To find elk and elk sign, it seemed important to get far away from roads (maybe just for the elevation and habitat) but not to get away from trails, at least low-trafficked trails. I shot my elk sitting 5 feet from a minor side trail shown on OnX, which was really nothing more than a game trail that petered out into nothing even when it was still shown on the map. Even the major trail nearby had no recent bootprints.
Misc hunt/planning lessons:
  • Boning out meat is really nice! I've always packed deer and caribou bone-in, but deboning was easier and made a larger difference than I realized. It's something I'll do more often.
  • I put together five solid e-scouted plans and was glad I did, even though that's more than I would have time to hunt. My experiences in the Plan A spot informed what I was looking for from plans B/C/D/E, and I was glad to have several different choices and be able to bounce ideas off a more experienced friend between spots. It kind of changed my future mindset from having a bunch of plans ranked in order, to instead having "Plan A" and then a bunch of other options I'll rank after seeing what happens in Plan A.
  • If I'm even slightly considering making a long loop between drainages, make damn sure there's a good trail on both sides where I might shoot an elk. I expected the long trail I took out of the first spot to be better than the one I took in, and it was much worse. It would have been a minor disaster to pack an elk out that way solo.
  • Don't plan two out-of-state hunts back-to-back with 13+ hour drives each way.
  • This was one of my first hunts with a 6 L water bag, and lugging it full up to the dry high country was well worth the increased options it gave me.
  • Every time I e-scout plan a route through an area, I end up doing something different after the first day. So I'm going to keep moving more in the direction of marking promising features (glassing points, campsites, water sources, safe routes, etc) over a wider area than I think I'll need, giving me room to adapt.
  • This was the first year I've used CalTopo offline maps in the field to supplement OnX, mainly for their slope shading layer to plan the least sketchy route up/down a hill. I'm keeping that new tool in my arsenal. It seems like the resolution is better than topo lines.
 
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PNWGATOR

WKR
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Congratulations and thank you for sharing your adventure along with great pictures!
 
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