Peep Sight Hell (Redux many times over... Just pleading for a solution)...

wapitibob

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One thing I've started doing: I do not use knots at the top and bottom like that where the string splits and comes back together. As mentioned above if you put any pressure on the "split" I don't think it's as consistent. I go around the peep itself (fairly tight here though) and never have an issue once set.I do put a mark with a sharpie on my string just above and below the thread I use to tie on as a visual check that it hasn't moved, and it never does.

^^^ this
Wrap a cpl loops around the peep groove and string, cinch it, knot it, and burn the ends; done. Your peep won't move when you hunt, even "when crawling thru brush" as they like to say on the internet.
 
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^^^ this
Wrap a cpl loops around the peep groove and string, cinch it, knot it, and burn the ends; done. Your peep won't move when you hunt, even "when crawling thru brush" as they like to say on the internet.
One thing I've started doing: I do not use knots at the top and bottom like that where the string splits and comes back together. As mentioned above if you put any pressure on the "split" I don't think it's as consistent. I go around the peep itself (fairly tight here though) and never have an issue once set.I do put a mark with a sharpie on my string just above and below the thread I use to tie on as a visual check that it hasn't moved, and it never does.


A picture for what they are saying. The serving is tied to the string, then wrapped around the channel in the peep, knotted over itself several times as it gets wrapped around, then tied off and burnt.

IMG_20201030_150710379.jpg

Contrasting sharpie mark. It will show you if it actually did move.


I have sharpie marks all over my bow, basically on anything that can move.
 
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Stalker69

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That's why I said I was going against the grain, but in saying that, I've never had a twist problem, can't say that about hunting partner. When I pull back, I know the peep will be right there. I'm not disagreeing at all, just saying for me it works and has worked well for all types of game in all types of weather, humidity, etc.
I am with you, I can get the peep perfect, then it may just be just slightest bit off, and it bugs the hell out me. With a tube I don’t have to worry , I know it’s going to be straight. But at the same time I don’t like the tubing either. Trying to shoot without a conventional “peep “now.
 

Zac

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This is a really good method I used when I was experiencing peep rotation. I agree that cinching down on the triangle is a good way to induce peep rotation. Just know that this method is permanent.
 

mavinwa2

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10 years ago, after peep frustrations, I eliminated the peep altogether. Now use the Anchor sight alignment device, shoot both eyes open. A better move too, now that my eyes aren't perfect 20/20 any longer with age.
50actice regularly, out to 80 yards. few shots at home 30yards about every other day.

Here's a 30yd group from practice shoot before my AZ OTC archery deer tip for the next 7 days.

01102021.group 1.jpg
 
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I am with you, I can get the peep perfect, then it may just be just slightest bit off, and it bugs the hell out me. With a tube I don’t have to worry , I know it’s going to be straight. But at the same time I don’t like the tubing either. Trying to shoot without a conventional “peep “now.


I have this memory from the old days of the tubing to hold the peep.

I won't go into too much of it, but when that tubing snaps it can hurt. Probably lucky to not have permanent damage.
 

wapitibob

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On the flip side...

For those that may not know how to work on their bow, have the equipment to do it, nor have the desire to go down that rabbit hole, the old rubber tube really will simplify things. Cut it just short enough to straighten the peep, and understand that it WILL move if not tied in really well.
 
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wildernessmaster

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So I have tried to use the strings I have. Its a binary cam system and I put 6 twist in each cable, 3 twists each then checked poundage, 3 then checked. The draw weight only went up a 1.4 lbs with 6 total twists. At that rate I would need about 25-30 twist, which I don't think is sustainable or safe. Any thoughts?
 
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So I have tried to use the strings I have. Its a binary cam system and I put 6 twist in each cable, 3 twists each then checked poundage, 3 then checked. The draw weight only went up a 1.4 lbs with 6 total twists. At that rate I would need about 25-30 twist, which I don't think is sustainable or safe. Any thoughts?
That many twists in a string or cable isn't safe. You need a new string and cables.

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wildernessmaster

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That many twists in a string or cable isn't safe. You need a new string and cables.

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My thoughts exactly...

I have already gotten them. My question is this, though... These strings don't look worn or stretch. They actually look in good shape and are only a year and half-ish old with maybe 2000 arrows shot on them. Maybe that many.

If I put the string on and the axle 2 axle is still long and the poundage light... what else can it be?
 
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My thoughts exactly...

I have already gotten them. My question is this, though... These strings don't look worn or stretch. They actually look in good shape and are only a year and half-ish old with maybe 2000 arrows shot on them. Maybe that many.

If I put the string on and the axle 2 axle is still long and the poundage light... what else can it be?
If you replace the string and cables and the ATA and brace height are within spec with the limb bolt tightened all the way down, then your limbs would be the issue.

When you take off the old threads lay them flat and compare against the new ones. See if they are different.

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My thoughts exactly...

I have already gotten them. My question is this, though... These strings don't look worn or stretch. They actually look in good shape and are only a year and half-ish old with maybe 2000 arrows shot on them. Maybe that many.

If I put the string on and the axle 2 axle is still long and the poundage light... what else can it be?


Nothing unless the measurements the string/cable were made to were incorrect.

Make sure you don't untwist the new set. I'd measure them and check against spec to see if they are correct. Then, assuming they measure right, put them on.


Or conversely, pull the string and measure it. See how it compares to what it's supposed to be.

Edit:
I'm referring to your ata, your poundage might be off a bit anyways as the limb deflection isn't usually exact. But it will be within 2#+-.
 
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wildernessmaster

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Nothing unless the measurements the string/cable were made to were incorrect.

Make sure you don't untwist the new set. I'd measure them and check against spec to see if they are correct. Then, assuming they measure right, put them on.


Or conversely, pull the string and measure it. See how it compares to what it's supposed to be.

Edit:
I'm referring to your ata, your poundage might be off a bit anyways as the limb deflection isn't usually exact. But it will be within 2#+-.
When you say "nothing" would that mean the bow is just a bust... trash it, if a new set of strings doesn't work?

As always thank you for the technical details!!
 
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When you say "nothing" would that mean the bow is just a bust... trash it, if a new set of strings doesn't work?

As always thank you for the technical details!!
Just an fyi, string and cables are measured under 100lbs of tension. This is how string makers measure usually between two 1/4" thick round posts.

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wildernessmaster

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Just an fyi, string and cables are measured under 100lbs of tension. This is how string makers measure usually between two 1/4" thick round posts.

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So if I lay them out and measure them they may not measure to spec, correct?
 
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So if I lay them out and measure them they may not measure to spec, correct?
Yes, because they are meant to be under tension all the time just measuring them laying flat won't tell you the whole story. I have used a couple 1/4" thick double hooks with two bags of rock salt and a sturdy bag hanging vertically before.

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Brendan

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#1 measure ATA and Brace and compare to OEM specs for the bow. You want those at least close, or better, dead on as a starting point. If those are on, and you're close to 65 with the limbs bottomed out, I'm guessing you have 65# limbs. If they're off - definitely need to measure the strings and cables if you can't dial them in with twists.
 
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wildernessmaster

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Yes, because they are meant to be under tension all the time just measuring them laying flat won't tell you the whole story. I have used a couple 1/4" thick double hooks with two bags of rock salt and a sturdy bag hanging vertically before.

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Thank you very much! I think I will just put them on and check the bow. I don't really have time to keep futzing with this bow. Strings are either going to fix it or not. If not I will call Diamond and see what they will do.

I have 2 other bows I am setting up and had picked this one up just for practice while I finished them and my new arrows off. This has totally sidetracked me!

Plus Last Chance Archery in all their wisdom (and totally crappy customer service - will be posting the horror story later) is requiring me to send my stand back before the ship me a new one to replace it - given they have acknowledged its broken. So I need to break my bow press down too!
 
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