Paper Tuning Issues...

[wayoh22]

Hello gents,

Going to start this off with I did use the search bar and couldn't find an exact answer hence why I'm making this thread.
Going to also state that the cams are in sync and timed perfectly. I understand that I may have to still adjust this but I think it's worth mentioning.

Setup:
Hoyt Carbon Defiant 34
29in DL/80#
Total Arrow Weight = 539.0 grains
FMJ 250 cut to 29in end to end, 100g tip, 50g brass insert, 4 AAE Max Stealth Vanes

Right side of paper is where I started. Rest was centered. Was getting high right tears.

Moved the micro adjust all the way up.

Left side of paper shows same high tear but the horizontal tear is fixed. (Disregard shot #4, fatigue set in)

Not sure where to proceed from here. I don't have a bow press or a vice to move the nock point or fiddle with stuff but one might be on the way if needed.

I also have tried shooting my Axis 300 arrows. Exactly the same setup but comes in at 510g total wieght and got the same results.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[bsnedeker]

Yeah man, you need a press and start twisting yokes I think. I am FAR from an expert but when paper and broadhead tuning the rest should be the last thing you use to get things set correctly. Basically use yokes and nock point adjustments to tune up on paper and get your bareshafts shooting within an inch of your fletched shafts.... once you get it that close now you can make micro adjustments to your rest.

That's what I do anyway.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[camelcluch]

Double check to make sure you are level through the Berger hole. Looks nock high so you may need to move your loop. Also make sure there is no nock pinch.

 

[wayoh22]

Yeah man, you need a press and start twisting yokes I think. I am FAR from an expert but when paper and broadhead tuning the rest should be the last thing you use to get things set correctly. Basically use yokes and nock point adjustments to tune up on paper and get your bareshafts shooting within an inch of your fletched shafts.... once you get it that close now you can make micro adjustments to your rest.

That's what I do anyway.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I think it's more the nock point and that the whole rest needs to be moved up a screw hole. But yeah looking at EZ Green unless a buddy comes through for me. Thanks.

 

[wayoh22]

Double check to make sure you are level through the Berger hole. Looks nock high so you may need to move your loop. Also make sure there is no nock pinch.

We're level through the berger hole. Just need to keep tinkering.

 

[OR Archer]

Where is your rest cord tied at on your limb?

 

[Zac]

That bow is famous for throwing high tears. I would start with your top cam hitting first. Definitely invest in a cheap bow vice so you can move the nocking point.

 

[wayoh22]

Where is your rest cord tied at on your limb?

 

[wayoh22]

That bow is famous for throwing high tears. I would start with your top cam hitting first. Definitely invest in a cheap bow vice so you can move the nocking point.

So I've heard. So you're saying I have the top cam hit first before the bottom?

 

[5MilesBack]

I hate paper tuning. I like to see what my arrows are doing down range. I've had what appeared to be perfect bullet holes through paper and then had to make adjustments to fix a BH arrow 6" right at 60, and it still shot perfect bullet holes after the adjustments. There's a whole lot of room for adjustments that fix down range problems that never show up on paper.

 

[OR Archer]

View attachment 275334

I’d move it up the limb another 1/2 inch toward the limb pocket. Also that cam likes very firm
pressure on the back wall. Not pulling the stops off though but not just hitting the wall and letting it sit there.

 

[Zac]

I hate paper tuning. I like to see what my arrows are doing down range. I've had what appeared to be perfect bullet holes through paper and then had to make adjustments to fix a BH arrow 6" right at 60, and it still shot perfect bullet holes after the adjustments. There's a whole lot of room for adjustments that fix down range problems that never show up on paper.

I agree. However his tears are atrocious. He's not ready to even shoot 20 yards at this point.

 

[Rob5589]

The only time I've had a tear that bad was from some kind of contact/interference. Usually from improper rest timing and/or clearance.

 

[Samdemarais]

I would certainly suspect something with rest contact.
1. Raise the rest
2. Drop nock point
3. Move tie in point around
4. Adjust cam timing
5. Get a new bow

 

[wayoh22]

Had to work this afternoon. Going to see if the vanes are contacting the Hamksea tail with some baby powder tomorrow. Will update then. Thanks to everyone who has suggested something, we'll figure this out!

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Try shooting a bare shaft and see what happens. If the high tear improves with a bare shaft, that probably means the rest isn't dropping fast/far enough and the vanes are making contact kicking the tail of the arrow up.

 

[ncavi8tor]

Someone suggested advancing the top cam so it contacts the cable first. That will make a tail high even worse!! Don't do that. After you have eliminated fletching contact, nock pinch, and nock fit I would add a half twist to the control cable and shoot again. If the tear improves add another half twist to the CC until you get a clean tear. This is assuming you are perfectly nock level through the Berger at brace. The Defiants are known for vertical nock travel issues and you will have to play with cam timing until it clears. You very well may end up with the bottom cam being advanced, but it will shoot just fine like that.

The spring in the Hamskea can be adjusted to allow a little more forgiveness during launch. I would try that as a last resort.

Good luck!

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[wayoh22]

Try shooting a bare shaft and see what happens. If the high tear improves with a bare shaft, that probably means the rest isn't dropping fast/far enough and the vanes are making contact kicking the tail of the arrow up.

I think you nailed it. Took a look at the arrow and thankfully I went with white wraps/vanes this year. That tear is coming from vane contact with the rest. Will play with the hamskea tomorrow. Also saw another thread on this same subject on this forum so have some guidance.

 

[Zac]

Someone suggested advancing the top cam so it contacts the cable first. That will make a tail high even worse!! Don't do that. After you have eliminated fletching contact, nock pinch, and nock fit I would add a half twist to the control cable and shoot again. If the tear improves add another half twist to the CC until you get a clean tear. This is assuming you are perfectly nock level through the Berger at brace. The Defiants are known for vertical nock travel issues and you will have to play with cam timing until it clears. You very well may end up with the bottom cam being advanced, but it will shoot just fine like that.

The spring in the Hamskea can be adjusted to allow a little more forgiveness during launch. I would try that as a last resort.

Good luck!

NC

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Lol that was me, no wonder my Defiant always tore nock high.

 

[4rcgoat]

I think you nailed it. Took a look at the arrow and thankfully I went with white wraps/vanes this year. That tear is coming from vane contact with the rest. Will play with the hamskea tomorrow. Also saw another thread on this same subject on this forum so have some guidance.

I agree with those that say skip the paper,get bare shafts flying straight, then go to broadheads.