Castle Rock
WKR
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2020
- Messages
- 925
Yep, or Lee FCD
Are you full length sizing or neck sizing your brass? Do you expand using a mandrel or ball? How much neck tension are you setting them up with? Do you clean and/or lube the inside of necks?If one does use good brass, good powder, good primers, good bullets, good barrels and good chronograph and is still seeing a less than ideal ES, any recommendations of how to improve ES?
@TimberHunter , how many rounds give you that ES? The Hornady guys mentioned in a podcast that speed ES takes a LOT of rounds to settle out to the true numbers and a 40-50 ES actually isn't bad for a larger round count.
Are you full length sizing or neck sizing your brass? Do you expand using a mandrel or ball? How much neck tension are you setting them up with? Do you clean and/or lube the inside of necks?
You need to take a slightly oversized nylon brush and put it in a drill and brush the insides of the necks as a last step (only like 2 seconds per neck). That makes a huge difference in seating consistency and lowering ESOn the 13 recent rounds that set a new max it was FL sized with a Redding body die (only sizes the body not the neck). Then used a Lee collect die (neck sizes only)
Neck tension was approx 1 thou, I do have a smaller collet which would put me at approx 3 thou. Maybe I need to try that like other said a bit earlier
I don’t clean the inside of the neck, I did anneal using an induction annealer. I lube the body before using the body die and then clean the one shot lube off with 70% alcohol and let it try completely
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You need to take a slightly oversized nylon brush and put it in a drill and brush the insides of the necks as a last step (only like 2 seconds per neck). That makes a huge difference in seating consistency and lowering ES
Correct. I use a bushing that puts me about .002-.003 under bullet diameter. Then expand with a mandrel as a separate step.I’ll give it a try, thank you!
On your FL, sounds like you removed the expander if you are using a mandrel correct?
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Are you brushing some of the moly lube out of the neck before seating? I'm using the 21st century dry lube when I use a mandrel and I'm wondering if I should brush the necks afterwards. I saw a post by Ryan Pierce where he said that made a difference.I load and shoot well over 1000 rounds a year. All magnum cartridges. 6 PRC, 6.5 PRC, 28 Nosler, 300 Norma and 7-300 Norma.
These steps get me the most consistency, and this is the bare minimum that I’ve taken it down too. You can always do more, but I wouldn’t do less, for a consistent load.
I don’t wet tumble every time, and I don’t Henderson trim everytime. But I want them in there so I don’t forget to at least check if I need too.
View attachment 698110
Im currently using mandrels that are .0005 under bullet diameter for a supposed .001 neck tension. I’ve had great results.
I apply 21st century dry moly, then I mandrel, then I just leave it in there and don't touch it afterwards. But running a brush on a drill certainly wouldn't hurt I'm sure.Are you brushing some of the moly lube out of the neck before seating? I'm using the 21st century dry lube when I use a mandrel and I'm wondering if I should brush the necks afterwards. I saw a post by Ryan Pierce where he said that made a difference.
That seems really light. No issues with rounds in the magazine when shooting with that little neck tension?Im currently using mandrels that are .0005 under bullet diameter for a supposed .001 neck tension. I’ve had great results.
This. I have a similar process except I don't tumble first unless necessary.You need to take a slightly oversized nylon brush and put it in a drill and brush the insides of the necks as a last step (only like 2 seconds per neck). That makes a huge difference in seating consistency and lowering ES
Might double check some of those charges on a beam scale too, I know my Chargemaster fluctuates +/- .1gr so if I'm really trying to dice something out I throw the charge .2gr under target weight and trickle up on the beam as consistently as possible. I doubt .1 is opening your ES 20fps, but it might be worth testing.Measure powder with Frankford Intellidropper. Accurate to .1 but I’d say the closer to .2 grains but I load each round with the same amount of powder per the Intellidropper. I don’t think this is my issue because people throw charges with good ES/SD numbers
None at all. Only the real big 30 cals have enough recoil to really shift the bullet hard in the mag, and even if the tip gets thumped the BTO is still the same. I’ve checked it. .001 only “sounds” light. I can still shove it over .060 into the lands without changing BTO. Also it still doesn’t pull a bullet out of the case when shoved deep into the lands and then extracted.That seems really light. No issues with rounds in the magazine when shooting with that little neck tension?
This has to be some kind of piss take, and stop biting your fingernailsI load and shoot well over 1000 rounds a year. All magnum cartridges. 6 PRC, 6.5 PRC, 28 Nosler, 300 Norma and 7-300 Norma.
These steps get me the most consistency, and this is the bare minimum that I’ve taken it down too. You can always do more, but I wouldn’t do less, for a consistent load.
I don’t wet tumble every time, and I don’t Henderson trim everytime. But I want them in there so I don’t forget to at least check if I need too.
View attachment 698110
Im currently using mandrels that are .0005 under bullet diameter for a supposed .001 neck tension. I’ve had great results.