Overtorqued Rings / Trijicon TenMile

[Lock3]

Just wanted to get some advice.

I have a Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x44 which I mounted on my Tikka using Nightforce XTRM ultralight rings. I made a stupid mistake when mounting it and didn't realize it for a a few days.

The Tenmile is rated for 18 lbs but I torqued the rings to 25 lbs/in (as recommended by the Nightforce rings).

Is that enough to damage the scope / what should I check at the range to see if I damaged the scope?

Appreciate any help!

 

[Shortschaf]

I torqued mine to 25inch lbs as well and it survived 30 drops from 3 feet

That scope is a tank; its fine

 

[Lock3]

I torqued mine to 25inch lbs as well and it survived 30 drops from 3 feet

That scope is a tank; its fine

Do you keep it torqued to 25 in/lbs?

 

[Shortschaf]

Do you keep it torqued to 25 in/lbs?

Yes

 

[RWT]

Same here. All of my ring caps are torqued between 22-25 lbs. that is as close as I can adjust them using a manual Fat wrench or fix it sticks.

 

[Reburn]

25-30 here depending on rings and scope.
25 is fine for your application

 

[TaperPin]

Just wanted to get some advice.

I have a Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x44 which I mounted on my Tikka using Nightforce XTRM ultralight rings. I made a stupid mistake when mounting it and didn't realize it for a a few days.

The Tenmile is rated for 18 lbs but I torqued the rings to 25 lbs/in (as recommended by the Nightforce rings).

Is that enough to damage the scope / what should I check at the range to see if I damaged the scope?

Appreciate any help!

I agree with the others - 25 inch lbs is within a normal torque range.

Take a look inside scopes to see what’s there - here are some big name scopes (Swaro, Zeiss, S&B, Kailes, and a cheap weaver and Nightforce NXS on bottom). Over torquing rings is such a common thing any scope not designed for it wouldn’t last long. On every scope there isn’t anything under the rear ring - literally nothing is in contact with the tube. In the old days with super thin tubes nothing would be touching the tube up front as well, but some modern scopes with thicker tubes, or cheap designs that should know better have minimal stuff up front. To cause problems there would have to be deep permanent scope ring dents and something sensitive directly under it.

 

[Lock3]

Thanks

I agree with the others - 25 inch lbs is within a normal torque range.

Take a look inside scopes to see what’s there - here are some big name scopes (Swaro, Zeiss, S&B, Kailes, and a cheap weaver and Nightforce NXS on bottom). Over torquing rings is such a common thing any scope not designed for it wouldn’t last long. On every scope there isn’t anything under the rear ring - literally nothing is in contact with the tube. In the old days with super thin tubes nothing would be touching the tube up front as well, but some modern scopes with thicker tubes, or cheap designs that should know better have minimal stuff up front. To cause problems there would have to be deep permanent scope ring dents and something sensitive directly under it.

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Super appreciate. I initially noticed that the windage wasn't tracking -- each click was dialing almost an 1 inch vs. 0.36 inches (mils). I went to the range yesterday after backing the screws off to 18 lbs/inch and the windage is tracking more correctly but it's also changing elevation with each dial (i.e., each 0.1 mil adjustment is moving the windage but also moving the elevation down).

I dialed 0.3 mils to the left, shot, dialed 0.3 more to left, shot and repeated a third time. It created a downward arcing shape like a half rainbow.

I have the scope ring within 1/2 inch of the turret (and I guess the erectors). Based on the diagram you sent, maybe I compressed the erector set up?

 

[SDHNTR]

Understand that inch pounds of torque in this application is not a universal standard. The clamping force can be dramatically different at the same inch pound value of torque, depending on the size and number of fasteners, thread pitch, the ring style, etc.

IMO, as a general guide, forget about what the scope manufacturer says, use the torque setting recommended by the ring manufacturer. They know the clamping force that is applied at a particular torque value and know that it will hold a scope and not do damage. The scope manufacturer, otoh, has no idea what rings you are using.

As others have said, you’ve committed no harm.

 

[TaperPin]

Thanks



Super appreciate. I initially noticed that the windage wasn't tracking -- each click was dialing almost an 1 inch vs. 0.36 inches (mils). I went to the range yesterday after backing the screws off to 18 lbs/inch and the windage is tracking more correctly but it's also changing elevation with each dial (i.e., each 0.1 mil adjustment is moving the windage but also moving the elevation down).

I dialed 0.3 mils to the left, shot, dialed 0.3 more to left, shot and repeated a third time. It created a downward arcing shape like a half rainbow.

I have the scope ring within 1/2 inch of the turret (and I guess the erectors). Based on the diagram you sent, maybe I compressed the erector set up?

I have no idea how thin the tube is or what exactly that scope is built like inside, but it would be very very surprising if the ring torque you used could deform the tube enough to have any effect on the internals.

The arc shape of groups you describe as you adjust windage sounds like the scope reticle is far enough out from center that the vertical pressure point is contacting the reticle guts off to the side of the circle. Have you had to put in a lot of windage? This is a description from a scope maker (Muller?) about lack of adjustment range, but it shows the elevation contact point getting off to the side. I left some of the text since it talks about it and how to better align the scope.

Some rifles have a barrel that shoots farther to the side, or receiver threaded holes aren’t in alignment with the bore, or the barrel contacts the barrel channel more to one side, or the scope has a bent tube and getting it to zero requires a lot of windage. This kind of issue is a great reason to not “drop test” scopes.

 

[Lock3]

I have no idea how thin the tube is or what exactly that scope is built like inside, but it would be very very surprising if the ring torque you used could deform the tube enough to have any effect on the internals.

The arc shape of groups you describe as you adjust windage sounds like the scope reticle is far enough out from center that the vertical pressure point is contacting the reticle guts off to the side of the circle. Have you had to put in a lot of windage? This is a description from a scope maker (Muller?) about lack of adjustment range, but it shows the elevation contact point getting off to the side. I left some of the text since it talks about it and how to better align the scope.

Some rifles have a barrel that shoots farther to the side, or receiver threaded holes aren’t in alignment with the bore, or the barrel contacts the barrel channel more to one side, or the scope has a bent tube and getting it to zero requires a lot of windage. This kind of issue is a great reason to not “drop test” scopes.

View attachment 865640

I was maybe 1 mil off of the "0" to the left (my zero for the specific round). There was still substantial adjustment left (6-7 mil for each of right or left).

 

[TaperPin]

I initially noticed that the windage wasn't tracking -- each click was dialing almost an 1 inch vs. 0.36 inches (mils).

That’s usually bad news if your reticle is pretty close to center and still isn’t tracking accurately. This is one of those times you probably need to pack it up and send in to have serviced.

 

[mudslinger021485]

I used 25in lbs or whatever the ring specs are. I have never hurt a Trijicon Tenmile.

 

[TxhunterPRC]

I'm running 30 in lbs on my tenmile HX in Hawkins Ultralights. Have had no issues so far on my 300 PRC.

 

[Jordan Smith]

I'd get those rings as far apart as possible, and as far away from the erector tube as possible.

 

[khuber84]

I've got 3 3-18 tenmile mounted in rings torqued to 25-30 "/#, as I always get the 25 limiter to click and then turn a lil more. Never had this issue. Second hand scope or new?

 

[The Harbor Master]

I agree with the others - 25 inch lbs is within a normal torque range.

Take a look inside scopes to see what’s there - here are some big name scopes (Swaro, Zeiss, S&B, Kailes, and a cheap weaver and Nightforce NXS on bottom). Over torquing rings is such a common thing any scope not designed for it wouldn’t last long. On every scope there isn’t anything under the rear ring - literally nothing is in contact with the tube. In the old days with super thin tubes nothing would be touching the tube up front as well, but some modern scopes with thicker tubes, or cheap designs that should know better have minimal stuff up front. To cause problems there would have to be deep permanent scope ring dents and something sensitive directly under it.

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This is cool, thanks for posting.