Order of Reloading operations

1. Deprime
2. Wet tumble (only if very dirty)
3. Anneal (every 2-3 firings)
4. Spray w/ 90/10 Alcohol/Lanolin
5. FL Resize (w/ .0015-.002 Shoulder Bump)
6. Expander Mandrel w/ dry lube
7. Quick dry tumble to remove case lube
8. Trim/Deburr/Chamfer w/ Henderson
9. Primers
10. Powder
11. Bullets
 
What’s your thoughts on tumble then anneal vs anneal then tumble? I’m still working through new brass on 2 guns and never bothered annealing before now. I will be with this brass so wondering if there’s a reason for doing one first? Thanks
I have read that some folks experienced carbon buildup (inside the neck) of tumbling media if using flame annealer after tumbling. Maybe not an issue with induction annealing.
 
Decap

Wet tumble no media I do batches of 500 a time

Anneal

Lube and size

Trim/chamfer

Maybe clean primer pockets if they have build up

Tumble dry media

Prime

Charge

Seat


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Tumble in cleaning litter
anneal
Lube
Size/deprime
Trim
Chamfer
Tumble to clean off lube (different litter than cleaning)
Prime
Drop powder
Seat

I add a few steps to make sure brass is clean before size/deprime.
 
Tumble
Spray lube
Resize/deprime
Wipe off lube, if loading on a single-stage press
Prime
Charge
Seat
Wipe off lube, if loading on a progressive press

Chamfer and deburring is done once, when cases are new or once-fired from factory ammo.
I only trim cases when I have to, and I have never bothered with annealing.

All of my pistol, 300 Blk, and .223 ammo gets loaded on a Dillon. Everything else gets loaded on a single stage press.
 
I reload all of my pistol cases on my Dillon progressive presses that does 3 or 4 operations with each stroke. For range pickup or my fired cases, I first soak and shake them in a plastic jar filled with hot water and Lemi shine and a small squirt of Dawn detergent, then I rinse and dry them. Then I vibratory tumble the cases (with the fired primers in them) in walnut shell media. After tumbling I spread them on a towel and wipe the tumbling dust off of them. They are then ready to load.

The first station on my Dillon the case is resized and deprimed with a carbide size die (no need to lube), and a new primer is seated. Second station slightly flairs the case mouth and drops the powder charge. Station 3 seats the bullet an removes the mouth flare. I only use the fourth station to crimp the magnum cases. Reloading is finished.

For rifle cases I first de-prime them with a Lee de-prime die. I do not anneal .223 or .308 brass. Other rifle brass I anneal after every 3rd firing. I also anneal .257 Roberts brass before fireforming because the annealed brass forms better. I don't anneal before expanding case necks, like 7 STW up to .300 Wby or 7mm or .300 RUM cases up to .375 RUM, because the softer annealed shoulders may collapse before the necks are expanded.

I anneal the cases before I clean them so that the cleaning will remove any oxidation and discoloration of the cases. I then clean my rifle cases the same way as I described the cleaning of my pistol cases above, and then these cases are ready to size.

I use Imperial die wax on a pad to lube my rifle cases, then size them and seat the primers, wipe the lube off, then check their length on "trim to length" gauges that I made. After trimming I lightly chamfer and deburr the case mouths.

Other than my standard .223 and .308 loads, I weigh all of the powder chargees for my rifle reloads on my RCBS Chargemaster scale and seat the bullets on a RCBS rockchucker press.

I collet neck size my .223 and .308 cases, so no need to lube them, and I reload them on my Dillon with thrown powder charges, just like I reload my pistol cartridges.

A bit longwinded, but simple process.
 
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