Optimum Spine and Arrow Flight

[ndbwhunter]

Did some messing around in archers advantage and noticed my spine shifted from "slightly stiff" to "optimum spine" just by going from a 100 grain tip to a 125. Only issue I'm having is that my arrows are flying great as is. Bareshaft, field point and broadhead are all grouping perfect at 30 yards. Would it do my any good to bump to the 125 grain point, or should I just leave it this close to season?

I'm currently shooting iron wills, so I'm not going to buy new 125 grain heads just to test.

 

[bsnedeker]

If it aint broke...

 

[Jericho007]

I agree. If it aint broke.............

I had a similar situation using Archers Advantage and found that the 125 gr didn't tune well with an "optimal" shaft. I needed a "slightly stiff" shaft to get them to tune.

 

[ndbwhunter]

Thanks, guys. That's kind of what I was thinking, but don't really have the time to play around this close to season.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Calculated spine is just a starting point. Perfect arrow flight is what you're really after, and it sounds like that's what you're getting since your bareshafts, FPs and BHs are all hitting together.

If you really wanted to add weight (which I wouldn't do just to match a software spine recommendation), Gold Tip FACT weights are an inexpensive option if they're compatible with your inserts.

 

[ndbwhunter]

On a side note, has anyone had issues working in Archers Advantage? My calculated speeds seems a bit off, and when I changed it to my most recent chrono reading it's now saying I'm to stiff. Speed only changed by 7fps. I'll have to dig the chrono out and see how close the program actually is.

I'm not sure what inputs are actually required, and which are ok to let the software calculate. I'm not going to print off multiple site tapes in hopes of finding the one that is better than the rest. I want something that is going to be accurate.

 

[ndbwhunter]

And what exactly am I supposed to put here? Assuming the range is the sight in range being one mark at 20-30 and another at the max of 80. What do I put in the "Mark" boxes?

 

[mfllood3800]

are you shooting a competition style sight? If not the sight marks aren't necessary

 

[madkaw284]

These programs give you a rough baseline and by no means are they the end all, be all. If it says you over or underspined in the program, it doesn’t mean you can’t achieve good arrow flight with that setup.


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[ndbwhunter]

are you shooting a competition style sight? If not the sight marks aren't necessary

I'm shooting a spot hogg tommy hogg. If I just enter "0" in the mark boxes I get an error.

 

[mfllood3800]

You can put anything in there, it isn't needed for your set up. You are not using a target sight with "clicks" so you don't need that info. You will just print out a sight tape, and not use the sights provided scale with "click" marks as yours doesn't have those. Just set up your data correctly like- sight pin to peep, and peep to arrow (all at full draw) in the bow set up. Measure your arrow weight and arrow speed and manually enter those. Enter all the other needed info on arrow and bow configuration as well. As always verify your 20 and 60 yard pins to ensure the scale printed out is accurate.

 

[mfllood3800]

Also if you play with the "mark" settings, you will see your FPS change. So you can mess with that input data until your FPS matches what the data box says. Just hit "recalculate each time you change the "mark" data.

 

[OCHO505]

What you want to do is not the mark on your dial of your Tommy Hogg... For example: Lets say when your sighted in @ 20 yards and on your dial it says 26, that is what you enter for your Range 1:26 for yardage:20.

You would than want to use a mark further like 50 yards... For example lets say 50 yards reads 40 on your dial. This would be range:50 mark:40.

What this does is take the drop and calculate it exactly to what your drop is based on your sighting in not the program. It works amazingly well and will make your sight tapes that much more accurate!

Can be done with standard slider also. Just need a caliber.

Take my word on this. This is a great way to verify a sight tape with out shooting it. How I do it... I shot 20 - 50 all my dial markings usually goes like this
20 yards 26mark
30 yards 31mark
40 yards 36mark
50 yards 41mark

Then I enter in the box you posted. What is great when you put a tape on you can verify that the tapes 50 yard mark lands on 41 on your dial and the same with all of the other yardages. If the marks don't line up your tape there is an issue. It will save you time and some flyer arrows!

Typically 3 - 5 number jump on marks give you 10 yards 3 on faster bows 5 on 300ish bows. It makes sighting in soo much faster.

 

[Brendan]

The Tommy Hogg has the same micro adjust dial mechanism as the Hogg Father, so you can use it to generate marks.

I don't use AA, but your maks would be something like 8+4 for 30 yds, 30+7 for 50 yds.

What this comes from is the micro adjust dial. Read the number, 8 clicks between each.

Software needs to be configured correctly to that sight