one tough trip- snowshoeing across the Bob Marshall

mtwarden

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Not a hunting trip, but as tough or tougher :)

This was a trip that Tom and I have talked about a couple of years now, but were finally able to pull it off last week. Our route would start on the east of the Divide, following the Sun River drainage, up the North Fork of the Sun, over Sun River Pass eventually dropping into the upper reaches of the Middle Fork of the Flathead River and out at Bear Ck (near Essex on Highway 2)- roughly a 100 miles.

The vehicle shuttling is a pain as the distances between the two trailheads by road are great. I met Tom and his wife at the Bear Ck trailhead and then she shuttled us to the Sun River trailhead; when it was all said and done it took several hours. We, joined by Tom’s dog Pepper, took off at noon hoping that in six days, we’d be out.

Easy Sailing



We made great time Monday afternoon, never having to don snowshoes. Found a great camp site and called it a day.

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The next day we still had pretty easy sailing for awhile. We hit snow in earnest not to far up the trail, but it was form enough it let us boot pack until after lunch.

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Not so Easy Sailing

After lunch we started post holing in earnest and quickly donned our snowshoes. Even with snowshoes we were post holing some. We’d take turns leading, but it still slowed us down and ran us down. It soon became apparent that the chances of covering the distance we wanted today, wasn’t going to happen. We pressed on until dark and called it a day.

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We got a decently early start, but it started with a cold ford. We brought “wading shoes”, but by the time we got out of them, dried our feet, put socks, boots and gaiters on- it was the last time we did this. We continued our jaunt up the North Fork of the Sun; sometimes with decent snow, others with poor snow.

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to be cont'd
 
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mtwarden

mtwarden

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Crappy Sailing

As we neared the turn off for Sun River Pass, the conditions worsened more so. The combination of an old burn with lots of blowdown and poor snow, ground our progress to a crawl. It got so bad at times that we would have to spend 10-15 minutes, digging out a hopelessly entrenched snowshoe.

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We kept pressing on despite the crappy snow, numerous blowdown, tough navigation (the trail was never visible, save the occasional green timbered sections) and finally hit it!

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We were now officially in the Flathead drainage! We hiked close to dark before making camp- still well behind out “schedule”.

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Early morning before getting out of the tents, it started raining and then gropple. We’d take gropple over rain though any day. That morning we encountered our worse snow yet (and we encountered lots of bad snow to this point!). One or two steps and then sinking up to our knees, or worse our hips. Slow, painful going. I put the tails on my snowshoes I brought with very little improvement. It was at this point we knew we weren’t going to make it out Saturday. I took stock of the food I had left and came up with a plan to ration it out an extra day. Tom had two bags of Fritos, so we we were in good shape! :)

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As we neared the headwater of the Middle Fork, the snow depth lessened at made it a little easier going.

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We found a place to ford the river. I just left my snowshoes on, knowing that I’d be soaking wet knees and below regardless.

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When we got to the Big River Trail we encountered a lot of blowdown. Not totally unexpected given the extent of the burn through this area, but we were back to a slow grind. We already learned that you don’t step anywhere near the downed blowdown- either side. Sometimes you forget.

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It wasn’t just dead trees down, some really big green trees had been blown over at some point too.

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Occasionally we’d hit bare ground, but we just left our shoes on as it never lasted long.

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Gooseberry patrol cabin that brought back memories as I worked this Middle Fork country years (and years) ago.

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We kept trucking soaking in the views, still well behind, but making progress.

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mtwarden

mtwarden

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Not Getting any Easier
We woke to a brisk and sunny morning.

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We woke to a brisk and sunny morning.

With the hard freeze, we encountered a new problem. The trail along the Middle Fork, for the most part, is well above the river and on a steep sidehill. In the “summer” the trail tread creates a nice level spot to hike, in the “winter” this tread is completely filled and just becomes part of the slope. We hit one particularly bad spot that Tom had to carve out steps with a avy shovel (I brought microspikes and then came in handy a couple of times, including this one).

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We had numerous fords and as I alluded to earlier, we just left our snowshoes on and trucked on.

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We hit Schafer Meadows and Ranger Station late afternoon (one of a few Wilderness areas that has a landing strip), but just kept trucking.

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Tom and Pepper were ahead of me and found a spot to camp, replete with a fire going! Very welcomed for sure.

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Time to Really Suffer

The day started clear and brisk. For awhile we had some pretty good going, firm snow and relatively blowdown free.

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Sadly it was short-lived and we got into terrible blowdown. If it wasn’t blowdown, it was steep side-hilling having to kick in with almost every step.

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Fortunately occasional views broke up the misery.

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Lots of fords and most had steep entries and exits.

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I got to 25 Mile Creek later afternoon and was surprised to see it rolling pretty hard. I saw Tom’s snowshoe tracks angling upward towards what I assumed was the trail. Looking at my map I could see the crossing was further upstream and likely not to have to make such a steep ascent. I wondered up the creek, but never saw the actual crossing (or the trail on the other side), so I back tracked to where Tom crossed. About 3/4 of the way across, I got swept and wet up to my neck. Not a good scenario to say the least. I followed Tom’s tracks in the snow only to find it didn’t bisect the trail and instead he climbed straight up, a dirt/mud slope steeper than a cow’s face! Getting swept was spooky, this was spookier yet. Nothing to grip on the way up. Took off my snowshoes (carefully so they wouldn’t slide all the way back down to the creek bottom!), put my microspikes on and continued to climb upwards. I finally made it and quickly hit the trail. I put a jacket over my now damp base layer (pants still soaking wet). I caught up to Tom who was shouting to me below not to go the way he went, but it went unheard of the loud creek. I told him I was going to hike for an hour or two and see if I couldn’t further dry my clothing using the heat from my body.

It did a decent job, but I still had plenty of dampness and it wasn’t overly warm. We decided to start a fire at the next dry spot and eat supper. The next dry spot was just around the corner, right next to the trail- done!

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The fire and hot supper was just what the doctor ordered. We looked at the map and decided to hike well into the night or we would be yet another day past our schedule- that wasn’t appealing at all. We donned headlamps and fought tough conditions (side steep-hills, some frozen and the danger of a slip meant doom) until midnight.

We pitched tents and hit the hay. An hour later we woke to the loudest wolf howling session I’ve ever experienced. They couldn’t have been more than 1/4 mile away. Tom said Pepper raised her head at the racket and promptly went back to sleep- it was a long day :)

The End is in Sight
We didn’t sleep in too much as we were both wanting to bear down and get to the truck. A day or so earlier, I noticed I was getting a strain on my left ankle. I’d been taking a pretty full dose of NSAID’s, but it wasn’t doing the trick as it had. This slowed my forward progress, despite some of the better snow conditions we’ve had to this point and surprisingly not a lot of blowdown either.

Spruce patrol cabin- 10 miles to go!

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My pace continued to slow and started limping as well. Tom was kind enough to slow his pace down so we could make it out together.

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At 2-ish in the afternoon, we made it out. I’d love to say now worse for wear, but that definitely was not the case. We were both hurting and worn down. We agreed that of all the tough trips we’ve been on, this one took the cake.

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I’m happy to report my ankle is much better and while Tom said he’d lose a couple of toenails, he’s doing much better too.

Thanks for reading.
 
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Excellent report with great pictures. Glad you all (including Pepper) made it out mostly intact! We are so lucky to have these wild places to roam. I’d guess more time and packing more food was on your mind. I initially thought maybe an alpine touring ski setup with leather boots would be more efficient but skis suck in blowdown. I still might do that instead, but admittedly I hate snowshoeing and my default is skis… even when snowshoes might be better 😜 Plus the frequently changing conditions would make it so you’d have to constantly put on and take off skins. I’d love to hear what you’d do differently if you were going to do the trip again.
 
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Awesome story, jealous of parts and not others, but that looked like an amazing adventure! Congrats to you both, tough men right there.

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schmalzy

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Your threads are consistently my favorite to read. Love the pictures and narration.


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