One rifle you could hand anyone to hunt anything? (Western US)

[IrkedCitizen]

20" 6.5prc with 153gr TMK.
20" 6UM with 116gr TMK.
Kill things dead.

 

[cwitt]

Why the chassis? Curious about your thought process.

I had a HNT26 and went away from it. The folding part was the only thing I really was after. Once I got behind a well built negative comb stock, I couldn’t stick with the chassis. My buddy has a McMillan Mountain Tracker, and side by side with the chassis it was significantly more shootable in field positions. Rokstoks are even better IMO.

Clients will F up the folding mechanism on the HNT 26, It’s slower to deploy and will make them think they can shoot further than they should. A well designed traditional stock, ie Rokstok or ROK Lite would suit far more.

I was leaning towards something like a HNT26 just from my experiences around them. I like how convenient the folder is for storing it, pulling it in and out of vehicles, on and off of packs, in a case, etc. and I found it comfortable to shoot. But I am not set on it by any means.

And FWIW, snap shots (never say never) don’t happen on the hunts I do unless we are already in a situation where we are planning for it, i.e. would have the chassis unfolded well in advance.

 

[Stinky Coyote]

my sako 90 peak 308 with NF atacr 1-8 dmx would work (for adult size peoples) and prolly fit in more with mil speak peeps

off shelf kitchen table build, factory white box match 168 eldm also off the shelf

ifn I hunted more around other people or handed it over to guys or had guys that could call range I would back it off my 205 yard zero to 170 where it then lines up with QD all the way to 600 (bang on or within .1 mil at most of my provinces elevation) then never have to worry if off zero from a dialler and a basic verbal on the reticle re; 0.5 increments and ifn I call this you hold there type thing...but it has full data including ranging data taped to stock so anyone could fumble through if needed or didn't have a ballistics solver spitting solutions or rangefinder/malfunction etc. but I do almost entirely mpbr shoot first, hold fur, fill tags immediately without ranging so won't give up the extra 40-50 yards, case in point a big cow moose at 275, bottom of lungs first one, then 2 more fast, moving up a little with each one, through shoulders knocked down on #2 and #3 hump spine while down but still sitting upright...ranged after at 275, big ole cow looked huge in scope lol, ie; looked easily within mpbr lol...

anywhoo, if I was building one for full hand over and it lived in a 5000' elevation window then for fastest simplest dummy operation i'd prolly look for a locking turret duplex/German that could get a cut speed dial (big digits) in yards for middle of that elevation range, mpbr zeroed, and it would handle everything to ~600 as simple/fast as possible for anyone with a basic rangefinder, only one unit 'yards' dial to yards call, some dummy info taped to stock like 'make sure it's on 0!, 0-250 dead on, 300 spine hold, after 300 dial and hold wind side of kill zone' type thing, send my old crf-1600 with em and prolly get about any decent trigger yanker to fill majority of tags they get a look at in least amount of fafo time, at least to 500 anyway, wind will beat em up after that, so the new nx6 2-12 4ai and cut turret option looks good although I don't think they lock on zero but must be something out there similar that does, as without lock there's too many issues so rather have it in the reticle and be capped as what's the number 2 rule here? improper zero? so locking exposed dialler or reticle solution capped...but as long as dialler stayed at zero and operator trained to constantly check that then the cut turret be fastest method for handing to 'anyone' as if you can't dial to 3.5 from a 350 yard call then you likely have no business pulling the trigger on anything haha

 

[cwitt]

As far as what distance we will be shooting or should/shouldnt be, I understand the perspectives. It’s easy to talk in absolutes based off our own experiences and our circle but frankly not a lot of people on here hunt with the spectrum of people that they think. There’s also a stigma on Rokslide that everybody out there going on guided hunts is just totally incompetent. Sure I’ve seen plenty of people have a melt down but it’s almost always the guys who think they’re God’s gift. Generally most people are capable of more than they get credit for if you keep things calm. In my experience, every single person and every single hunt is different. I want this set up to be as capable for as many of those as possible.

This rifle will be set up for dialing — I am almost always the one ranging regardless of it is my rifle or not. It is very easy to tell if the person is someone I can read a number to or if I just need to reach down and dial the scope myself.

As for the scope, I’m pretty set on a 3-18 NX6 with a Mil-C reticle. I understand that anything over 12x isn’t necessary but whether you agree with it or not, extra power adds confidence for some people. If they don’t need it then they don’t have to use it. That Mil C is simple enough that if you don’t know what you’re doing you aren’t overwhelmed and if you’re skilled enough to use it, go nuts.

I have lost count of the number of times I have set a hunter up on an animal, NOT told them the distance, dialed for them or told them what moa/mil to dial for, and zoomed their scope in until they’re comfortable, maybe had them dry fire, and we made a good shot.

 

[B_Reynolds_AK]

extra power adds confidence for some people

You have a good perspective on what you want to build a rifle for.

However this statement above is very counterintuitive and actually a false sense of confidence.
Not being able to find the animal to get on target, definitely not spotting the impact, definitely not following up quickly and thinking that because the animal is large in the scope that the bullet is going to impact there are all going to cause unnecessary issues.

 

[IrkedCitizen]

I hunted one season with a HNT26 and got rid of it. Main reason was the difficulty to get in and out of my Kifaru Gun Bearer. Second was that my RRS clamp on my bipod couldn't get tight enough to keep it from walking off the front of the foreend under recoil. Third was the open bottom grip would catch branches/twigs in it. The gun bearer was the deal breaker

 

[streamerfish]

As far as what distance we will be shooting or should/shouldnt be, I understand the perspectives. It’s easy to talk in absolutes based off our own experiences and our circle but frankly not a lot of people on here hunt with the spectrum of people that they think. There’s also a stigma on Rokslide that everybody out there going on guided hunts is just totally incompetent. Sure I’ve seen plenty of people have a melt down but it’s almost always the guys who think they’re God’s gift. Generally most people are capable of more than they get credit for if you keep things calm. In my experience, every single person and every single hunt is different. I want this set up to be as capable for as many of those as possible.

This rifle will be set up for dialing — I am almost always the one ranging regardless of it is my rifle or not. It is very easy to tell if the person is someone I can read a number to or if I just need to reach down and dial the scope myself.

As for the scope, I’m pretty set on a 3-18 NX6 with a Mil-C reticle. I understand that anything over 12x isn’t necessary but whether you agree with it or not, extra power adds confidence for some people. If they don’t need it then they don’t have to use it. That Mil C is simple enough that if you don’t know what you’re doing you aren’t overwhelmed and if you’re skilled enough to use it, go nuts.

I have lost count of the number of times I have set a hunter up on an animal, NOT told them the distance, dialed for them or told them what moa/mil to dial for, and zoomed their scope in until they’re comfortable, maybe had them dry fire, and we made a good shot.

Sounds like you fairly well know what your want, any of the 6mm's, 25 creed, 6.5 creed....If you reload then just go with whatever, i think the 6.5 creed probably wins on buying ammo. Personally I wouldn't go past 6.5 creed taking recoil into consideration. But that's just my preference.

 

[cwitt]

You have a good perspective on what you want to build a rifle for.

However this statement above is very counterintuitive and actually a false sense of confidence.
Not being able to find the animal to get on target, definitely not spotting the impact, definitely not following up quickly and thinking that because the animal is large in the scope that the bullet is going to impact there are all going to cause unnecessary issues.

I definitely agree with all of that, especially from the fundamentals standpoint. And that’s a good reminder that it’s worth having that conversation with somebody when we stop to shoot the rifle in practice before the hunt. But my rationale is based on the fact that if they don’t already have those fundamentals, we likely won’t have the time to develop them in a meaningful way in the short time I have with them. I’d rather try and make them as comfortable/confident as possible on the first shot and be prepared to help them zoom out and get back on the animal for a second if needed.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Presumably the guide can spot the shot for the shooter.

 

[cwitt]

Sounds like you fairly well know what your want, any of the 6mm's, 25 creed, 6.5 creed....If you reload then just go with whatever, i think the 6.5 creed probably wins on buying ammo. Personally I wouldn't go past 6.5 creed taking recoil into consideration. But that's just my preference.

I do have a good idea but I also really appreciate the input. I have a ton of respect for the people on here so hearing the different perspectives helps me evaluate and articulate the why behind my own thought process and choices. It’s all good stuff

 

[Jordan Smith]

You don't want people chucking lead out at 400+ yards if they're not capable. You can get them inside 300 and be successful. If you can't, well, you can explain to them why you don't just show up and wing it if you want to take shots that take practice and skill. Absolutely no one that doesn't practice with their rifle should be shooting at anything past 300y guided or not. Injured or gutshot and unrecoverable animals is way worse than an unsuccessful client. Even guides owe respect to the animal.

I mean look at Cortina's ethical hunter challenge. Guys with PRS rigs that are quite practiced struggle at 500. You're going to have a client shooting beyond what is MPBR with no practice and a hunting rifle?
I'd be happy if the hunter with no rifle would put 3 into a 12in circle at 100 yards from a field position.

You go ahead and explain that to your clients that you are hoping will give you a tip. There's a reason that we would have the hunter shoot paper on plane day before the hunt started. If the guide is capable of getting range, wind call, DOPE, etc., all the hunter has to do is execute a good shot. Their performance on paper gives a good sense of their ability to do so. While it's not a perfect predictor of what they'll do from field positions, if the hunter nestles into the rifle and puts a small group on target, I'm confident that if I take care of the shot solution they'll squeeze the trigger properly. Where to draw the line becomes quite clear after seeing them shoot.

The Cortina challenge is shooting at a deer heart-sized target. Almost everybody makes what would be a vital hit on the deer, even if they don't hit that heart-sized target.

 

[tstowater]

Cartridge choice is pretty subjective. I would be looking at something in the 25 or 6.5 caliber, personally. I would be looking for something that would create confidence in a shooter. Easy to get behind with a good trigger and quick sight acquisition. A can is a good idea but you will need to babysit with the NFA requirements. I took a backup rifle with me last year. Didn't need it which was even better. It was a 6.5 CM. Had a non dial 4.5-14 Leupold. Ideal? No, but it was there as an insurance policy, not as a primary weapon. If you want this to be more than that, then plan accordingly.

 

[RWT]

I have 2 loaners I offer

New shooter or obvious girly men
Ruger G1 ranch in 6.5 Grendel U7 can in a bravo stock. Trij Huron 3x9 Heavy enough there is no recoil and I can adjust LOP easily

Full size men that claim they are Quigley but their scopes off……. And they are having trouble with rezeroing. Howa 1500 16” 6.5CM U7 Trij Huron 3x9. If I give them a magazine they are more likely to lose it so a Tikka is out of the question. If they pop the catch on BDL they lost $10 in ammo.

Both loaded with 129SST. Surprisingly there is no difference in performance for either rifle out to 300 yards. Same bullet and both over 2K FPS.

 

[Superx3]

I’ll get flamed on here for this but a savage 110 with accufit stock for adjustable LOP in any caliber you see fit. My pick would be a 7mm-08. I have never had a savage that wouldn’t shoot well. I personally have never shot an accufit stock though.

 

[Tanner]

Tikka 6.5 or 6 Creed in a Stockys VG with a 2.5-10x42 NXS with a good can on the end comes to mind pretty quick as a gun that damn near anybody could get behind and start reliably shooting 2 MOA targets out to 6-700, very very easily.

 

[Tanner]

As an aside, as a fellow guide, I am usually wary of letting clients borrow rifles, because it can end up being something they’ll give you endless shit for and ask for a refund or free hunt if they miss with it.

Case in point, some family came out years back from CA a few years back to hunt antelope with my brother as their guide. He had my 6.5x47 Lapua with a 2.5-10 NF on it, proven reliable hammer of a rifle that to that point hadn’t missed a game animal… they whiffed 3 antelope under 300 yards and started complaining about the rifle being off… my brother then center punched a zero at 100 and the bitching stopped. They ended up killing bucks but if it wasn’t family, I can see that situation ending contentiously. I guess if they can shoot it for zero before you leave camp, then it’s all good, but it’s something to consider.

I’d rather have clients shooting my guns than the usual cluster farts they bring, but it can introduce issues…

Tanner

 

[nm.otter]

Both 6.5 PRC and .270 Winchester are challenging in a light rifle. For a new shooter of unknown capabilities, I'd be looking at Creedmoors or smaller.

 

[djauofd]

270 win 1-8 twist 120’s through 170’s. Fast and flat, reloading materials everywhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[djauofd]

270 win 1-8 twist 120’s through 170’s. Fast and flat, reloading materials everywhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Shraggs]

As far as what distance we will be shooting or should/shouldnt be, I understand the perspectives. It’s easy to talk in absolutes based off our own experiences and our circle but frankly not a lot of people on here hunt with the spectrum of people that they think. There’s also a stigma on Rokslide that everybody out there going on guided hunts is just totally incompetent. Sure I’ve seen plenty of people have a melt down but it’s almost always the guys who think they’re God’s gift. Generally most people are capable of more than they get credit for if you keep things calm. In my experience, every single person and every single hunt is different. I want this set up to be as capable for as many of those as possible.

This rifle will be set up for dialing — I am almost always the one ranging regardless of it is my rifle or not. It is very easy to tell if the person is someone I can read a number to or if I just need to reach down and dial the scope myself.

As for the scope, I’m pretty set on a 3-18 NX6 with a Mil-C reticle. I understand that anything over 12x isn’t necessary but whether you agree with it or not, extra power adds confidence for some people. If they don’t need it then they don’t have to use it. That Mil C is simple enough that if you don’t know what you’re doing you aren’t overwhelmed and if you’re skilled enough to use it, go nuts.

I have lost count of the number of times I have set a hunter up on an animal, NOT told them the distance, dialed for them or told them what moa/mil to dial for, and zoomed their scope in until they’re comfortable, maybe had them dry fire, and we made a good shot.

My two cents:

Runner up is tikka 6 cm shooting factory ammo, 103x or 108m (kiss, no loading).

Based on a lot of great input, and my assumption that a skilled/experienced hunter would not be down a rifle on a paid hunt…

My first choice would therefore be tikka 243 in Sammi chamber shooting any quality 95-100 grain ammo the gun likes. And, respectfully I’d put the trijcon Huron with the etched bdc reticle. These speeds the 200,300,400 will line up well at 8-9 power. Where 308/6.5 more like 7-8. And you’d have option to hold reliably to 400 or dial.

Knowing you want to dial for them, I’d rather swfa 3-15 or 3-9 simply for the bolder reticle for mixed clients.

Respectfully a non guide.