Non-reloaders without a chronograph, how do you zero?

[The Harbor Master]

Sorry in advance if this is a silly question... I'm debating what "kind" of zero I should be doing. I no longer reload (life happened and had to sell everything; plan on doing it again but not feasible for quite awhile) and am shooting factory ammo for now. Without a chronograph, would one just plug in the velocity from the factory box into a ballistic calculator and try to confirm at distance? Essentially try and play on the idea of maximum point black range?

I am shooting Federal Premium 7mmRM loaded with Berger 168gr Hybrid Hunter, from a Tikka T3x Superlite (24.3"BBL). I've played with the numbers, did the old "a little high at 100yds," then shot out to 400yds. This resulted in the following (pic attached).

100yds, +2.5"
200yds, +1.25"
300yds, -5.0"
400yds, -20.0"

Anyone else take the "zero a little high and see what happens at distance" method? Should I stop being dumb and just zero at 100yds and learn to dial? Using a NXS 2.5-10x42 in MOA (I know, I know, mils are better. Can't afford a new one right now). Dialing just feels a little silly inside 400yds, which is my self imposed limit unless I get a LOT of practice at farther ranges. Last 2 elk I took were inside of 150yds.

TL;DR how do non-reloading poors zero?

TIA

 

[H80Hunter]

1) I get a 10 shot zero at 100.
2) Then, into the solver I put the box velocity (adjusted for barrel length). If I have a 20" barrel but the box is 24" I'll subtract like 100 fps as a starting point.
3) I'll set up a big paper target and shoot at a longer range. I always go out to 600 but sometimes I'll start at 300.
4) Using 300 (as an example) I can see, OK, I dropped [fill in the blank] MOA from 100 to 300. I will play with the velocity in the solver. Until it "predicts" that the drop from 100 to 300 matches what I saw happen on paper.
5) Repeat this at 600. Often I just shoot a 12" steel plate and see.

This is good enough for me. Usually after 300 it's just a small tweak to app velocity at 600.

Then for hunting I'll dial to like usually a 200 yard zero. This works fine for hunting largely inside of 300 anyway, and steel out to 600.

 

[The Harbor Master]

1) I get a 10 shot zero at 100.
2) Then, into the solver I put the box velocity (adjusted for barrel length). If I have a 20" barrel but the box is 24" I'll subtract like 100 fps as a starting point.
3) I'll set up a big paper target and shoot at a longer range. I always go out to 600 but sometimes I'll start at 300.
4) Using 300 (as an example) I can see, OK, I dropped [fill in the blank] MOA from 100 to 300. I will play with the velocity in the solver. Until it "predicts" that the drop from 100 to 300 matches what I saw happen on paper.
5) Repeat this at 600. Often I just shoot a 12" steel plate and see.

This is good enough for me. Usually after 300 it's just a small tweak to app velocity at 600.

Then for hunting I'll dial to like usually a 200 yard zero. This works fine for hunting largely inside of 300 anyway, and steel out to 600.

Thank you, that is very very similar to what I was thinking of doing. Hopefully can get the solver to match (or be pretty close) to what I am seeing.

 

[TaperPin]

For the vast majority of traditional fast moving cartridges shot under 400 yards, zero at 300 yards and your life will be much easier. This works for 22-250, 243, creedmoors, 25-06, 270, 280, 7 mag, 30-06, 300 mags, etc.

I have yet to try a different method that is as easy to remember, quick to shoot, and in 15 minutes can take someone who’s never shot a deer and make hits from memory to 400 yards. Every person has a hold under or over gauge attached to the end of their arms that works well with this system. I’ve never even looked up a chart for 6 creed or your 7 mag load and I’d bet lunch it’s easy to ring the 400 yard plate with a 10” hold.

As a practical matter I automatically hold 1/4 the way up (or a hand width down if that’s easier to visualize) for both 100 and 200 yards. 350 is 3/4 up on a deer (or hand width up), 400 is on the back for deer, or just under the back on elk.

Even on scopes that dial, I walk around with the scope set for 300 yards and don’t touch the dials until past 400 yards. Dialing past 300 yards for flat shooting cartridges is usually 2.5 MOA @ 400, 5 MOA @ 500 and 7.5 @ 600. Slower cartridges are often 3 MOA, 6 MOA, and 10 MOA.

In an hour a new shooter can memorize and shoot from memory without dialing to 400 yards, and dial from memory to 600. That’s not possible with any other MOA zero that I’ve come across.



Here’s a fast moving 308 or slow 30-06:


Here’s a 7 mag and 300 yard zero:


Creedmoor:

 

[TaperPin]

The biggest problem with just a few shots at each range is you’re assuming incorrectly that they represent the middle of your group.

 

[PNWGATOR]

How to use a mil/mil scope-reticle, turrets and proper usage

I have gotten a bunch of requests to write up a "how to" for using mil reticle scoots. In this case the SWFA Milquad reticle. It is the 6x42mm SS with MQ reticle in the pictures, however the process and use is the same as long as you have a scope who's reticle matches the turret adjustments-...

rokslide.com

Good information in this thread regarding zero and velocity calibration.

 

[TaperPin]

Converting your numbers to a 300 yard zero, the 400 yard result you have seems very slow for a 7 mag - I’d bet lunch and a beer it doesn’t drop that much.

100 4.2”
200 4.6”
300 0
400 -13.6

 

[hereinaz]

You can get a 100 yard zero and then use the Gravity Ballistics app from Snipers Hide. Frank created the app that uses your own shooting data at ranges to develop a drop model based on your rifle.

The app will walk you out with data at whatever distances you have out to whatever distances you can manage. For instance, it will give you proposed drop out to 200, and then give you proposed drop out to 300, etc. etc.

If you only have 350 yards, then it can give the proposed drop for that.