Non oem Tikka barrel swaps

Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
3,005
Location
Great Falls MT
Just ordered a Viper vice and an internal wrench. I'm going to attempt my first barrel swap without adult supervision.

My rifle is a UM build. So I'm guessing it'll come off relatively easily with an internal wrench? Is this right? Or do I need the external?

Then installing I need 80 ft pounds and anti seize?

Is there any tips for mounting the vice? I don't really have the room on my loading bench to mount it. I thought I saw a guy here who had a trailer hitch mount.

Might be able to ethnically rig it to my bench in the garage.

Thanks fam
 
I would think the internal wrench would be fine with the re-barreled rifle. A couple of largish c-clamps and clamp it to whatever solid base you can find. I personally don’t like anti seize and prefer any EP grease. (I.e., wheel bearing grease) over anti-seize. I like lots of torque but many use less so your 80 would likely be fine. If you don’t have a torque wrench just lean on it hard and it’ll be fine.
 
Just ordered a Viper vice and an internal wrench. I'm going to attempt my first barrel swap without adult supervision.

My rifle is a UM build. So I'm guessing it'll come off relatively easily with an internal wrench? Is this right? Or do I need the external?

Then installing I need 80 ft pounds and anti seize?

Is there any tips for mounting the vice? I don't really have the room on my loading bench to mount it. I thought I saw a guy here who had a trailer hitch mount.

Might be able to ethnically rig it to my bench in the garage.

Thanks fam

You should be fine if you can find someway to securely mount your vise. You don’t have to mount the vise just horizontally also look for ways vertically like a post or beam you can lag bolt the vise to. After I install a new barrel I use my internal wrench with no problems, it’s just getting the factory Tikka off is where I use the external wrench. I also use anti-seize. Do you have go-no-go gauges?
 
I would think the internal wrench would be fine with the re-barreled rifle. A couple of largish c-clamps and clamp it to whatever solid base you can find. I personally don’t like anti seize and prefer any EP grease. (I.e., wheel bearing grease) over anti-seize. I like lots of torque but many use less so your 80 would likely be fine. If you don’t have a torque wrench just lean on it hard and it’ll be fine.

Thanks!
Yeah this barrel is right on its last third of barrel life.
Debating to change it or just finish it off at the s2hU week after this.
 
Debating to change it or just finish it off at the s2hU week after this.
Leave it be; unless you have time and ammo to really test it and really establish zero this week coming.

If you break something or get stuck in the middle of the process due to first timer issues you won't have time to order anything to fix it.
 
I would think you should be fine with an internal on a UM installed barrel. I assume they used anti-seize. I unscrewed one of my barrels I installed a couple years ago and it came loose pretty easy. Granted, I used anti-seize on initial install and an external to remove.

I installed all my tikka barrels with Nickel anti- seize and go to 80-85ish lbs. I have no tips for mounting, I mounted mine to my reloading bench. Drywall tape has worked well between vice and barrel for me. Tighten the vice nuts insanely tight, to ensure the barrel doesnt spin and leave marks. I've yet to have a new barrel spin but removing the OEM T3's, I had a couple spun from not being overly tight.
 
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