Nock height adjustments in relation to rest height

CamClouse

FNG
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Jun 23, 2021
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2
Just got the reckoning 35 for hunting and noticed a small inconvenience that I am hoping to get some advice on.
While paper/bareshaft tuning I had to move the nock point up a bit and the rest down as far as I could. Its shooting bullet holes now, but the drop away rest smacks into the riser shelf and is a bit too loud for my liking, especially to be used for hunting.
So my question is, can I move the nock point and the rest up enough so the rest doesnt contact the shelf. And what effect could moving the nock point and rest too high be?
 

wapitibob

WKR
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Reckonings like the btm of the shaft at the upper 1/3 of the rest hole.

The effect of moving everything up is a change to grip/release angle which changes grip pressure. I doubt you will move it enough to need a tweak of the cam timing.
 
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If that's where it actually wants to be, I'd work to just quiet the rest on the shelf.


Before you get too far into it I'd confirm that everything is where it needs to be. Could be you already did that, but you haven't said at what distances you are tuning at. I'd put some broadheads on and see that they are indeed hitting were you want them to.

Some bows have some tight shelf areas and different rests will contact.
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Moleskin on the shelf. I have my QAD HDX set up so it lands perfectly parallel onto the shelf but hits the moleskin. And that's with the bottom of the arrow through the top 1/3 of the rest holes.
 
Joined
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You may check to see if your rest manufacturer has a launcher with a deeper cradle for the arrow. If so, you might be able to raise the rest a hair and get the deeper cradle. This might get you off the shelf, still carry the arrow close to the same intersection of the Berger hole, and keep the same nocking point. Just a thought.


@StraightWayOutdoors
Straight Way Outdoors, Fulcrum Archery, Elite Archery, Upwind Odor Elimination, Wicked Twisted Bowstrings, Pine Ridge Archery, Bloodline Fibers
 

KitsapDan

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Moleskin on the shelf. I have my QAD HDX set up so it lands perfectly parallel onto the shelf but hits the moleskin. And that's with the bottom of the arrow through the top 1/3 of the rest holes.
Excellent idea! I’d also suggest one of those self adhesive thin felt pads people put under lamp bases etc.
 
Joined
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So I'm having the same problem as OP but I'm not worried about noise. I just need my BH to hit my FP. I've moved my nock point pretty high up (above the berger hole), and my rest is pretty as low as it can go. But I'm still an inch high at only 20 yards. My arrow is clearly not level and pointing down, but that's the direction I had to go to get them even close. Any ideas? Should I just move my nock point up again? I've had the timing checked
 

DB29

Lil-Rokslider
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Apr 4, 2020
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So I'm having the same problem as OP but I'm not worried about noise. I just need my BH to hit my FP. I've moved my nock point pretty high up (above the berger hole), and my rest is pretty as low as it can go. But I'm still an inch high at only 20 yards. My arrow is clearly not level and pointing down, but that's the direction I had to go to get them even close. Any ideas? Should I just move my nock point up again? I've had the timing checked

What is an inch high BH or FP? How nock high are you? I would check cam timing, rest timing and for nock pinch.
 
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BH is hitting high. My nock point is high enough where if I level my arrow it's clear above the berger hole. I'm definitely no expert but it just seems way too high. I'm starting to wonder if I put it to high and now I'm just getting fletching contact. But I put it so high because my rest is maxed down. I contacted QAD like JF said for the deeper launcher arm but seems like I have a bigger issue. I mean this arrow is pointing down bad just eye balling it. Going to get some baby powder and check for fletching contact and have my timing re-checked tomorrow.
 

DB29

Lil-Rokslider
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If you are over 1/8th inch nock high and still need to go up I agree something else is off.

Did you start with the arrow square to the string? How far apart were the BH and FP with the arrow square to the string?
 
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Yeah he had it all squared for me and BH were hitting about 6 inches high at the start. I started tuning and dropped the rest, wasn't enough. Had him move my nock point up and square my arrow again. Tuned some more, dropped the rest all the way down and it was closer. I had him move my nock point up and square the arrow again. I tuned and dropped rest again and they got closer than before. But I don't think my nock point can go up any more! Something's got to be off. Idk if it's me or the bow but man I'm chasing my tail. Thanks for the help I appreciate it!
 

mod-it

Lil-Rokslider
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Jun 7, 2023
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That is way too much nock high being needed, like said above, more than an 1/8" something has to be wrong.

Spray athlete's foot on the vanes, let dry, and then check for contact. Lipstick on the top and edges of vanes will show it too.
Nock pinch, take the tip out of the arrow and draw it back, does it lift off the launcher?

Fletching contact, nock pinch, one draw stop in the wrong setting, one draw length mod in the wrong setting, string stop adjusted way into the string, and cam sync would be all the things I'd first check.
 

Zac

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I’m having exact same issue with SS34. Through the Berger I get horrible rest contact with the riser. This was with 2 different Hamskea’s, and an AAE. Had a nock low tear that was almost impossible to get rid of. Only fix was like the OP. Move the nocking point way up. Haven’t measured it but it’s obviously sitting tail high. Tried running the top cam way ahead as well. Not sure that made any difference. I have wondered if it is a spine issue. I’m 30.5 inches, at around 70 lbs. hard to tell what length with the insert. Probably 29.5 with 155 up front on a 300.
 
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