New walnut for an old classic

[Decker9]

Bottom sides to depth, nearly had a heart attack thinking I’d went to deep with the handsaw lol. I didn’t snap pics. But with the action in and metal box installed and seated against the action, I sawed the bottom side to 1/8” from the box, then chiseled and filed it to just above.

I’ll get the trigger guard in next and get the trigger hole cut out and bolt release installed and inletted for. Looking forward to being done with the inletting. Swear I’ll have a milling machine to help with the next one!

 

[Decker9]

Got the trigger guard cut in, all went quick. There’s a bit to go to get the floor plate closed, I’ll get back to that later.

Hoping to get the trigger installed and that inlet cut out today/tomorrow.

I’m still contemplating which way to go with pillars, cast them in or build my own. I have both marine Tex and Acraglas I can use for bedding. I’m leaning towards Acraglas for this one and using the black dye.

Dows anyone have experience casting pillars with Acraglas?





Had some good company, meet Archie.

 

[Choupique]

I'm patiently waiting for you to get to the bedding part. My project rifle is a 2 piece bottom model 70 classic express

 

[Macintosh]

Dows anyone have experience casting pillars with Acraglas?

No. But I am curious—as most of the work Ive done is on shotguns, so my bedding and pillaring experience is minimal—about the difference and tradeoffs between what I would have said were traditional metal pillars versus fully “glue” pillars if thats what you mean.
Maybe @Wrench or @Shooter71 can lend some insight?

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

I’ve used both acraglass and score-hi probed [emoji[emoji[emoji6][emoji6]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]][emoji[emoji[emoji6]][emoji[emoji6]]] for pillars. I never really felt like the acraglass got as hard as the probed but I can’t say that it compressed any. I think it was easier to be confident that the acraglass had no voids because it flowed better. You might want to thin whatever you use.

 

[Wrench]

I have used jb, belzona and devcon for pillars. Acraglass is thin and doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

[Decker9]

Thanks guys,

Mtn that’s kinda my worry, iv had good luck with Acraglas as bedding, but to fill a hole and have it cure right has me unsure.

I think I will do it right and build or buy some aluminum pillars.

 

[Decker9]

I got the trigger mortise cut out, I tried leaving as much wood as possible to help in the strength. Pre 64’s Iv looked at often have a crack between the mag box and the trigger. I will bed in a hidden cross bolt behind the lug, I may add one in the back too.

Was lucky to stumble on a couple pillars I had laying around I’d forgot about, cut to length and ready to go.

I dont have any .338wm stuff on hand though to test the feeding before I glue these in. I’ll poke around town here and see if I can find a few.

Got the sling mounts in as well. I’m going to build a gouge for fitting these I think. I’d like to build something with a radius exact the same as the mounts, I seen potterfield do it, it can’t be that hard?

 

[Decker9]

Put shoe polish on the screws, then into the bottom metal, then wrapped in tape until the fit snug in the pillars (helps keep the screw centered and from touching the inner pillar afterward),



2 wraps of electrical tape to keep it all in line in the barrel channel.


Took a little wood out for the barrel pad, hogged a bit out for a hidden cross bolt. The cross bolt is probably not needed, but can’t hurt?

Debating adding one in the rear between the magazine and trigger mortise still.


I’ll let this cure and get my ducks in a row for the bedding.

 

[Decker9]

Just send it.

Figured I’d just get it bedded, I thought I had black dye but it turned out to be turd brown… I still prefer it to the non colored Acraglas I think lol.

I taped the bottom/sides/front of the lug with 1 strip of painters tape, and a strip around the rear tang. I tried to not over do it with the Acraglas but still managed to get it flowing up the barrel channel a ways. Glad I put a strip of tape in there.

I’ll give it 3-4 hours then loosen the screws 1/4-12 turn. I did end up with my free float, it’s actually about perfect, I suspect the access bedding that flowed up the barrel channel kept everything from “bottoming out”. It’s still writhin good though, it may have saved me a little sanding in the barrel channel I think.

This parts always a white nuckler.

 

[Decker9]

Turned out good I think, just a little cleanup to do. I’ll need to grab my dial indicator from work one these days (been off over 2 months now) I like to check to be sure there isn’t any movement when loosening the action screws, I’m pretty confident it’s spot on though.

I need to clean up this mess of a bench and get re organized. Next I’ll start getting the comb height, recoil pad and cheek piece laid out.

 

[Choupique]

Thanks for the bedding details, that's what I've been waiting to see. Going to try it on my model 70. Might as well learn on the most expensive rifle I own!