New Tikka Owner. Advice on making it lighter.

[Thebigbaby]

Just ordered a t3x lite in .300 win mag for $735 shipped.

I am looking at lightening it further. What recommendations do you have?

Fluting the barrel and bolt might shave a few oz’s.

I understand the factory stock weighs 28oz’s and you can buy aftermarket stocks that weigh all the weigh down to 18-20oz’s. Wildcat, MPI, etc. I think I will go with a XLR stock.

I am mainly asking about parts that I can swap out to save weight. Such as the bolt knob. Is there anything else?

 

[Boltgun]

Have the receiver lightened by Unkown Munitions.

Just don’t expect to use Talley rings afterward!

 

[ljalberta]

Bolt shroud and knob to shed a little weight. Lumley has some lightweight options. New Rokstok Lite will be another stock option in that sub 20oz range once complete. Fluting and cutting down barrel as mentioned is another option along with the UM action lightening.

It’ll shoot with authority though getting it on the super light side in a .300 mag.

 

[Thebigbaby]

Bolt shroud and knob to shed a little weight. Lumley has some lightweight options. New Rokstok Lite will be another stock option in that sub 20oz range once complete. Fluting and cutting down barrel as mentioned is another option along with the UM action lightening.

It’ll shoot with authority though getting it on the super light side in a .300 mag.

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for.

As far as shooting with authority, I’m getting it threaded for my can. Suppressors reduce recoil quite a bit.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

You’re going to spend a LOT of money to get it a bit lighter. Why not cut weight in other parts of your pack. Plus, with a 300wm, a little extra weight is a good thing.

 

[Thebigbaby]

You’re going to spend a LOT of money to get it a bit lighter. Why not cut weight in other parts of your pack. Plus, with a 300wm, a little extra weight is a good thing.

Gives me something to do I guess. I get what you’re saying though.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

What is your target weight (vs shaving weight to shave weight)? Do you experience shooting a 300wm well at that weight? What optic are you planning?

Considering optics vary greatly in weight I’d want to know my target weight and optic before determining if I needed to shave stray ounces.

 

[Apollo117]

You’re going to spend a LOT of money to get it a bit lighter. Why not cut weight in other parts of your pack. Plus, with a 300wm, a little extra weight is a good thing.

Agreed. Juice is not worth the squeeze. The bare Tikka action is about 30oz. It's difficult to get much lighter. Spend the money elsewhere.

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[Thebigbaby]

What is your target weight (vs shaving weight to shave weight)? Do you experience shooting a 300wm well at that weight? What optic are you planning?

Considering optics vary greatly in weight I’d want to know my target weight and optic before determining if I needed to shave stray ounces.

I don’t have a target weight honestly. I haven’t shot a .300 at that weight before. I have shot my .308 that is similar weight but it had my can on it.

Optic will probably be vx3 hd 4.5-14x50 (16 ounces) And my omega 36m (12.5 oz)

 

[Thebigbaby]

Agreed. Juice is not worth the squeeze. The bare Tikka action is about 30oz. It's difficult to get much lighter. Spend the money elsewhere.

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What made me go down this path is last year I had my Savage 111 LRH in .300 wm (like 8.9 lbs), vortex hst 6-24x50 (guessing 28oz without looking), and my can (12.5 oz). It was not very fun to pack around or take off hand shots.

I agree it’s not worth the squeeze, just something to do. It seems like the only thing that is significant in saving is a lighter stock. Swapping out parts and fluting don’t do much. Just figured everything add Ming up would make a difference.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I’d ponder that target weight part first and talk with folks with 300wm in that weight and how well they can stay on target with a similar can. You start getting below certain weights are you just can’t stay on target during recoil.

One variable you can play with to is ~1oz per inch of barrel if you shorten it when threading fyi.

 

[Thebigbaby]

I’d ponder that target weight part first and talk with folks with 300wm in that weight and how well they can stay on target with a similar can. You start getting below certain weights are you just can’t stay on target during recoil.

One variable you can play with to is ~1oz per inch of barrel if you shorten it when threading fyi.

Thank you, I will do that. Do you have a reccomended target weight? I think right now it’ll come out to 8.something lbs.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Thank you, I will do that. Do you have a reccomended target weight? I think right now it’ll come out to 8.something lbs.

I'll let others chime in more there but 8.x dressed to hunt would not bother me on a 300wm I don't think. I wouldn't want to drop a ton off that. A can helps with recoil but its not as much as a brake. You said you've shot a 308 with your can, the 300wm in the same weight rifle will be about 150% of the recoil. I totally get the aspect that you were carrying a 11+lb setup before with that savage which sucked but going sub 8lb or sub 7lb is gonna have some thump (like 150% more).

Actually you still got that 308 in 8ish pounds? Shoot that without a can on it and see how that feels and how well you can stay on target, cause a 300wm at 8ish pounds with a can on is gonna recoil harder than that most likely.

 

[Thebigbaby]

I'll let others chime in more there but 8.x dressed to hunt would not bother me on a 300wm I don't think. I wouldn't want to drop a ton off that. A can helps with recoil but its not as much as a brake. You said you've shot a 308 with your can, the 300wm in the same weight rifle will be about 150% of the recoil. I totally get the aspect that you were carrying a 11+lb setup before with that savage which sucked but going sub 8lb or sub 7lb is gonna have some thump (like 150% more).

Actually you still got that 308 in 8ish pounds? Shoot that without a can on it and see how that feels and how well you can stay on target, cause a 300wm at 8ish pounds with a can on is gonna recoil harder than that most likely.

Will do, thank you.

 

[MAP1]

Peak 44 Blacktooth stock weighs 19-20oz for Tikka. If I’m correct the Tikka factory stock with limbsaver and vertical grip is 32oz.

 

[grfox92]

I'd be looking for a way to make your 300WM a little heavier than what a factory Tikka comes in at, all for the reasons listed so far in this thread. You mentioned your son using the gun, how old is he? Even a suppressed 300wm in a Tikka weight will be over 20ft lbs of recoil which is significant.

Strap that gun to your pack and there is no way you notice a few ounces.

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[mt100gr.]

I played around a bit with a buddy's T3x 300 WM suppressed with a TBAC7 last summer. I wouldn't want it any lighter. It shot great but it's not nearly as fun as a lighter recoiling rifle. Especially not lighter in the rear, unless you're going to chop that barrel about 6 inches!

 

[The Harbor Master]

I spent a lot of time and money trying to shave ounces and grams off a T3x Superlite in 7mm Rem Mag... All I really gained was a little more recoil. I fluted bolt, changed bolt shroud, lightweight rings, etc etc etc... I probably only lost about 3oz total. Granted, a stock swap will probably take the biggest chunk of weight off but YMMV. (For the record, I totally understand customizing things just for the sheer joy of it, and shaving weight as a project just to see if you can. Nothing wrong with that, but the returns will just be diminishing IMO)

 

[Pharmseller]

Shoot lighter bullets.



P

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Gives me something to do I guess. I get what you’re saying though.

The biggest weight savings would be a stock. Everything else might get you a few more ounces but lots of money and machining time would be involved.

I think the sticky’s stock is much lighter as is the peak 44. I’m actually considering getting one of these for my 30-06.