My DIY bag for duplex

[WoodBow]

I know all about those struggles.

Thanks for posting the test. I cant imagine a scenario where even 70#s would be applied to a single bar tack so should be golden either way.

 

[5shot]

The bar tack will be better over the long term as well, under repeated loading with pockets, etc. 70 lbs per lock, loaded in shear (instead of pure tension as I did) will likely last the life of the pack however.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Great testing, thanks.


On the machine front I think I see a decently solid one near me (if available still). Kenmore 158.14310 (mid 70s metal, belt driven) supposedly a 1amp motor, zig zag machine, double need capable, etc. Comes with a table, manual, other stuff. Table actually would be handy since I currently carry our machine up to the kitchen table, the collapsing machine table I could setup in my gear/reloading room and not need to break down nightly when mid project.

 

[5shot]

I'll have to look, but I think that is the same machine I have (In addition to my Brother and my Industrial Consew). It is all steel, with no plastic internals. Really a robust machine for the few DIY type projects you would do for yourself. I wouldn't pay much though, as parts are probably non existent. Mine was basically new, but the selector switch for zigzag didn't work. It had sat for so long that the oil had shellacked up and everything was stuck. I re-oiled heavily and moved parts by hand until it was all moving freely. Make sure you sew with it before handing over the cash. If something doesn't seem right, it probably isn't.

BTW - I was able to get #69 to run through my Brother. I wrapped it around the tension knob twice, which gives you a lot more top thread tension. Doing a bar tack I was able to get the lock to bury into the webbing, instead of sitting on the bottom. I used a size 18 needle, and if I go to a size 20, I am sure I could turn the tension down a bit (it is maxed out now). So, I can now do bar tacks with that machine and size 69 thread. That's a plus, since it will be bomb proof (and I don't have to source #46 thread in different colors).

Sorry to the OP for hijacking your thread...probably should have started a new one, as this didn't have a lot to do with your beautiful pack.

 

[WoodBow]

As stated before, i like discussing this stuff regardless of where. So no need to apologize.

Thats a great idea about going through the tensioner twice. I have wrapped the thread around spool posts and such in the past in an attempt to get more tension but that idea never occurred to me.

In regards to the old machines, unless it is still being used when you buy it, expect for stuff to be gummed up. Most of them have sat in a closet for years and then someone finally decides to get rid of them. The odd thing is that they will commonly develop issues after short use that were not there when you demo it. This has happened to me multiple times. Thr most recent machine i bought turned very smoothly at the sale. When i got it home, after playing with it some, it developed a fierce lope that would load the motor to a stall. What has worked well for me is to liberally apply wd40 or penetrating oil to all moving parts inside and out. I do this with the machine running wide open if possible. This one i had to turn by hand until it freed up enough that the motor would run it. You will have oil dripping out of the machine for a while so keep newspaper or something under it. It will continue to shed the oil so play around with it on some scrap or a project that doesnt matter too much. I made some sandbags on mine. Then actual sewing machine oil should be added to the points listed in the manual. If no manual, add it wherever it could possibly be needed.

 

[5shot]

The single #69 Bar Tack was able to hold over 200lbs (my entire body weight) for a brief period. When it failed, it was the 500D Cordura that let loose. I would guess that 1000D would still have kept my ass off the ground.

The double wrap was used on one of my leather sewing machines, so I figured I would give it a try. Wrapping over the thread post works a little as well, but it would be better if they had holes drilled in them like the industrial machine post, since you get way more bite that way.

My Kenmore is the exact same model as the one you are looking at Pods8.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

My Kenmore is the exact same model as the one you are looking at Pods8.

Cool, good to know. What's the thickest thread you've tried with it? I presume no issues (assuming it works) with running through layers of cordura and webbing tucked into the seams assuming one slows down and doesn't beat on it?

 

[5shot]

I have only used 46 in that machine, and it does fine going through a couple layers of webbing and cordura with a size 18 needle. 69 might work fine though.

 

[Hunt'nFish]

Those Kenmores are one of my favorite machines.
One of the few that have a gear reduction pulley to increase power.

In fact I was just restoring a 158.15600 today. It was bit of a mess; reverse did work, stitch length knob didn't work, belts loose. Cleaned, oiled and working like a champ. Powerful bugger now.
Probably put it up forsale after I thread it up and do a project or two on it.

Got a little collection of Kenmores....and Singers, Brothers, Vikings, Phaffs, Whites and even a couple Morse's.
Restoring them is a hobby of mine.... or a problem.
Hunt'nFish

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Good to know. Main issue I see is its a bit of a drive from me and I leave town in a couple days and I am swamped. I may just watch and see if its around in a couple weeks still (who knows what else will come along). But based on the features/strength/table I would lean towards it at the moment for being a good fit for my needs, the video I saw of that model sewing looked like it was smooth/powerful(enough).

 

[5shot]

I also tested the sewn loop used for 3 bar sliders and common loops (shown below), where a loop of webbing is sewn between 2 layers of Cordura. I was able to hold my entire weight off the ground and lightly bounce on it without it letting go (using #69 thread). I did not have grosgrain on the seam either (as you would have on the pack seams), which would actually strengthen the seam and lessen the chance of it failing. With multiple docking points, I don't see how it would ever fail.

 

[WoodBow]

Is that just a single row of stitches across them? If so thats pretty impressive. When i made my cargo panel, i made it 2 layer and first sewed it inside out with all my straps on the inside. I then flipped it right side out and sewed a seam around the perimeter. Do you think that is how the piece you showed was constructed?

 

[5shot]

I'm not even sure what that pic is - it was just a pic that showed what I was talking about. The piece I sewed was double stitched...I don't have reverse, so I just lifted the foot, dragged it back, and sewed over the strap again. I would imagine that is the case for any professionally made gear, although it would be triple stitched, since they would be using reverse.

BTW - I would imagine the piece pictured was sewn inside out, turned, and then the perimeter sewn, which would give it at least 2 passes of stitching.

 

[5shot]

Does anyone know what material is used to line the shoulder straps and cover the torso pads on the Duplex Frame?

 

[WoodBow]

I do not. But i made a lumbar pad for the frame i made by layering pieces of a cheap blue yoga mat. It is firmer than kifarus lumbar pad material but works great.

 

[5shot]

I purchased the foam from the Foam Factory online, but I want to find a soft but durable material to line the should straps and cover the torso padding.

 

[5shot]

BTW - I did on last set of tests before I dive into my project. These were again sewn with #69 Bonded Nylon First, I tested a Box X stitch on a Tab Loop, sewn through 2 layers of 500D (like you might see on a cargo panel). I sewed a loop on each end of the fabric and it easily held all of my 200 pounds. There wasn't the least bit of strain noticeable on the stitching or fabric. The second one I tested was a series of loops created by Bar Tacking a piece of webbing, as shown below. It again held all my weight without any trouble, however I could see where there was some serious load being put on the lower Bar Tack, due to the direction of the applied load. There is obviously more than enough support with these packs for any load you could possibly lift.

 

[WoodBow]

Excellent info. What project are you about to tackle? Did I miss you mentioning that or did I just forget?

 

[5shot]

I think I'm going to make a DIY Duplex Frame and a Cargo Panel. I have a Duplex Hip Belt on the way, but the rest I am going to make.

 

[WoodBow]

Very nice! It is quite the undertaking. I have a duplex so let me know if you need pics or measurements. That would have been very valuable when i was making one. text 9032757238 and i can send you what you need as the need arises.