My DIY bag for duplex

[5shot]

I've got too many machines (for work and home), so another machine isn't likely in the works any time soon. You're Singer is an awesome machine (I had one at one time), and reverse is rarely needed anyway. You probably would have got your use out of a Bar Tack machine though!

My Consew doesn't have needle feed, which is a really nice feature, but also not a "Must". For flat, even stuff it works great.

The 206RB is a really good machine too, but make sure you get one made in Japan.

Not sure why I asked about the Bar Tack, since earlier in the thread you had already discussed the Viking...and I replied!

 

[WoodBow]

No worries. I enjoy discussing this stuff. What kind of work do you do since you mentioned machines at work? Good to know about the made in japan. I have 4 machines at the moment. I obviously have a problem.

Thinking about putting a servo on the 111w. The clutch motor is WAY to fast for small precison work, especially radiuses. I saw consew offers one for about $100. I know id use that machine a lot more if i could slow it down.

 

[5shot]

I had a servo on mine - they really make it easy to go slow.

I make leather holsters, belts, etc. for concealed carry. My main machines are needle and awl harness stitchers...

 

[5shot]

Did the test between the bar tack and a 3 pass straight stitch. For the bar tack I used an old Brother, using size 46 bonded polyester thread (the largest that will fit that machine). The straight stitch used size 69 Bonded Nylon thread in my industrial machine. I used size 69 for the straight since that is what I will be using for the rest of the sewing anyway. The base was 500D Cordura and I used Mil Spec 1" Nylon Webbing.

After attaching the webbing I sewed the cordura and the webbing into loops so that I could attach weights for the testing. Each one easily lifted 100 lbs with a single attachment point. The bar tack on the home machine did pull away from the fabric a bit more than the straight stitch, probably due to the lower thread tension that a home machine can provide.

I will add more weight to see where the failure point is, but I am satisfied that for non military gear a 3 pass straight stitch will be fine.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Mind trying 3pass with the lighter thread to the test too (for reference for folks without the larger machines)?

 

[5shot]

Will do.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Cool, thanks.

 

[WoodBow]

Thanks for the test. In my mind 3 straight would be stronger against certain directions of force. Its like trying to tear a phone book in half. If all the pages are together, it is not possible. But if you lightly flex the book so that the pages begin to separate so that they are being torn one at a time, it is very easy. If the force is applied so that the outer zig zag takes all of the stress before sharing it, i would bet it would fail before 3 straights.

Higher tension really is a huge advantage with the industrial machines. I actually modified the tension mechanism on one of mine so that it is infinite. Of course then you start running into power issues.....

 

[5shot]

I am not finished with the test, but I was able to get one of them to fail...and it was the 3 pass with #69 thread. It was a stitch failure at 130lbs. Barely got the weight off the ground and it let go. The Bar Tack with #46 held 130 with no problem. I will try a 4 pass straight just for fun, but that's even more work without reverse (on a big project). I will also try a 3 and 4 pass straight with #46.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Speaking of all this heavier thread and machines should I be looking at picking up a used older machine if I'm looking to build a pack (per the other thread)? We have a basic lower cost Janome 2212 right now. I'm starting to worry I might damage it sewing layered cordura with webbing tucked into seams, etc.

Any of you more knowledgeable folks know anything about old Singer 649s? http://boulder.craigslist.org/art/5532756842.html

 

[WoodBow]

If you are using a newer machinr with any plastic parts, yes i would worry. Most areas will not be an issue but the spots that are several layers of various material will cause problems and be hard on the machine.

I look at machines a lot of CL. People are bad about not posting model #s and such but when theu do i will google it and do some research.

5shot, will you post a pic of how the weight is being applied to the seam?

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Yes its newer (our current machine).

I was just curious off hand if you all knew anything about it already, minor initial googling brough up manuals, etc. Its a 60s era machine. Replacement parts appear to have plastic gears does that imply the originals are plastic too or just they are offering cheaper replacements?

 

[WoodBow]

If it was made in the 60s, I have a hard time believing it had plastic gears originally.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

If it was made in the 60s, I have a hard time believing it had plastic gears originally.

Looks like 1969-1970. Reading up sounds like the later 60s ones of this series (singer touch and sew) are hit/miss on which are metal. If 60-70s plastic do they at least tend to be more robust since sewing denim and such would be the norm of the era?

 

[WoodBow]

They will certainly be more robust than the home grade machines they make now.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Kinda what I was thinking plus if cheap then not much to cry over if I do detonate it and avoid pissing off the wife. I'll stew on it.

 

[WoodBow]

I said i have 4 machines but i forgot about one. 3 machines, including the industrial singer, were all free. I paid $25 for my viking and $15 for the Montgomery Ward machine i picked up last weekend. So i have $40 invested in 5 machines which i have sewn hundreds of dollars of gear with. Bargains are out there. You just have to be patient.

 

[5shot]

Your free Singer was a steal...

 

[WoodBow]

Yes sir it was. A friend of mine is a professional knife maker and i had remembered seeing it in his shop. When i needed a heavy machine for a project i asked if he still had it and he said come and get it. It needed a little attention but not much.

 

[5shot]

5shot, will you post a pic of how the weight is being applied to the seam?

So, I sewed the pieces together like this, and then tied the weight through one loop, and put a dowel through the other to allow me to pick it up. It's definitely worse case, since all the loading is pulling right on the stitches, which is not how it is loaded when using MOLLE attachments.

I ran the test with 3 passes of Size 46 bonded polyester. It held 70lbs easily. It also picked up 100lbs, but failed shortly after getting it off the ground. I re-tested the 3 pass Size 69 and it failed with 130lbs again. The original Size 46 Bar Tack has still not failed, but I don't have a decent way to add more than 130lbs. Regardless, it is the stronger method for attaching PALS. Would be nice if size 69 would run through my Brother, but the machine doesn't have enough tension to pull the lock into the material, so it just sits on the bottom and looks like crap.