Multi pin slider sight

[Loo.wii]

Hi everyone
I have a 5 pin spot hog and I have my first pin zeroed for 20 yards and I have the proper sight tapes to shoot out to 80 or so using the first pin.
The issue with attempting to shoot further is the fact that my sight obstructs the path of my arrow. Would it make sense to manually adjust the remaining 4 pins to shoot out to 90, 100, 110, and 120 when my top pin is set for 80?

 

[Garryett]

Use your bottom pin as the floater. IE distances further than 60 you would dial and use your bottom pin.

 

[Insomnia]

Use your bottom pin as the floater. IE distances further than 60 you would dial and use your bottom pin.

Yeah, this is the simplest answer with the fewest sacrifices.

 

[entropy]

To pile on to the above responses, you'll maximize the distance you get by putting your 60 pin as low in the housing as you can. If you can stand moving your peep sight higher (obviously, not everyone is comfortable with that), it'll help eke out a few more yards too.

 

[CowboyD]

I like to use the top pin as the slider so my sight window isn't so cluttered. Yes, I give up some long range yardage but can still go out to 70-80 yards. Using the top pin makes it seem more like a single pin at longer distances.

 

[Kyle Wheeler]

Curious what speed are you shooting? Has your peep been set? I set mine at 40 yards to help with a little clearance

 

[Loo.wii]

Curious what speed are you shooting? Has your peep been set? I set mine at 40 yards to help with a little clearance

I forget what speed but it’s a #16 fast Eddie tape

 

[CowboyD]

Curious what speed are you shooting? Has your peep been set? I set mine at 40 yards to help with a little clearance

My arrow speed is calculated at about 275 fps. My peep is set at 20 yds.

 

[PurpleDriver]

I use bottom pin for floater, but my bottom is .010 and the other 3 are .019

 

[hoytrules]

I would use bottom pin, if pins are set 20 30 40 50 and 60. If need longer you will get more yardage using the bottom pin.

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

If you are using a 5 pin slider, and your tapes are off your 20 yard pin......you are losing a ton of distance and your sight tapes start at 20.

Use your bottom pin as your slider and start your tapes at 60 (or whatever you decide your bottom fixed pin will be set to). When you return to 60, your fixed pins all return to 20/30/40/50/60. I also prefer .010 as my 4th and 5th pin.

 

[billysmals]

In you option, if you set your 2-5 pins to 90, 100, 110 ect. after you dial to 80, they will all be off when the sight is set to 20. At that point you would have a 20 yrd top pin and then have to walk off and shoot the others to find their distances and memorize them when they don't march out even. Sounds easy but to remember 20, 30, 40, 50 ,60 is easier than something like 20, 33, 47, 58, 72....I have no idea what it would turn out for you. A dual indicator would help get you another pin to easily find yardages. I would rather have simpler during an animal shot. You also might have trouble gap shooting distances when set at 20 in my example as the gaps aren't even. Gap shooting for me is easier when set with even yardages. It's magnified at distance as well as the pin gaps increases. Anything can be done with practice but I find it easier to set the bottom as the floater as others have suggested. I can shoot to 100 that way without too much difficulty. Yes the picture is a bit more cluttered, but I sacrifice that over a single pin for the ability to easily shoot multi yardages. For me if I wanted a single pin I'd just get one.

 

[Loo.wii]

In you option, if you set your 2-5 pins to 90, 100, 110 ect. after you dial to 80, they will all be off when the sight is set to 20. At that point you would have a 20 yrd top pin and then have to walk off and shoot the others to find their distances and memorize them when they don't march out even. Sounds easy but to remember 20, 30, 40, 50 ,60 is easier than something like 20, 33, 47, 58, 72....I have no idea what it would turn out for you. A dual indicator would help get you another pin to easily find yardages. I would rather have simpler during an animal shot. You also might have trouble gap shooting distances when set at 20 in my example as the gaps aren't even. Gap shooting for me is easier when set with even yardages. It's magnified at distance as well as the pin gaps increases. Anything can be done with practice but I find it easier to set the bottom as the floater as others have suggested. I can shoot to 100 that way without too much difficulty. Yes the picture is a bit more cluttered, but I sacrifice that over a single pin for the ability to easily shoot multi yardages. For me if I wanted a single pin I'd just get one.

In my option I would also just use my dial to dial my top pin to 33 if I need to shoot 33yards. I’m missing why that’s an issue ?

 

[ResearchinStuff]

In my option I would also just use my dial to dial my top pin to 33 if I need to shoot 33yards. I’m missing why that’s an issue ?

Dialing, especially with an animal close, is not always a viable option. You also can't dial while at full draw if the animal moves, which theyre almost always doing. The further away the animal, the more you can get away with ranging, dialing, and drawing. In close, extra movements will get you busted.

Watch episode 9 of the latest born and raised series to see what happens when you don't draw early enough on an elk.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Hi everyone
I have a 5 pin spot hog and I have my first pin zeroed for 20 yards and I have the proper sight tapes to shoot out to 80 or so using the first pin.
The issue with attempting to shoot further is the fact that my sight obstructs the path of my arrow. Would it make sense to manually adjust the remaining 4 pins to shoot out to 90, 100, 110, and 120 when my top pin is set for 80?

No. This is preposterous.

 

[nphunter]

In my option I would also just use my dial to dial my top pin to 33 if I need to shoot 33yards. I’m missing why that’s an issue ?

I have seen many examples of missed opportunities on elk when guys are using a single-pin site and the elk is being called in and constantly moving. Using your top pin as a floater defeats the purpose of a multi-pin slider, you might as well just buy a single-pin site, with a single pin your top pin is in the center of the housing so you have more room to dial down. You could also pull a couple of pins and make it a 3-pin and drop your top pin down if that's the one you want to dial with.

 

[billysmals]

Dialing, especially with an animal close, is not always a viable option. You also can't dial while at full draw if the animal moves, which theyre almost always doing. The further away the animal, the more you can get away with ranging, dialing, and drawing. In close, extra movements will get you busted.

Watch episode 9 of the latest born and raised series to see what happens when you don't draw early enough on an elk.

There isn’t anything wrong with dialing the top to 33 as you mentioned. But as ReseachinStuff has said it can be problematic, and you might find certain situations more challenging is all.

 

[CJ5K]

I have seen many examples of missed opportunities on elk when guys are using a single-pin site and the elk is being called in and constantly moving. Using your top pin as a floater defeats the purpose of a multi-pin slider, you might as well just buy a single-pin site, with a single pin your top pin is in the center of the housing so you have more room to dial down. You could also pull a couple of pins and make it a 3-pin and drop your top pin down if that's the one you want to dial with.

If you were using a 3 pin set up, would it make sense to use the middle pin as the slider, so that you have a pin farther and closer to be able to adjust for animal movement? Or is that just silly nonsense?

 

[fishsticks]

If you want to go this route and dial exact yardages the best option (I’ve found) is a dual indicator set up. Spot Hogg, MBG and Axcel all offer options like this. You then have the ability to use both your top and bottom pins as rovers. So, in my case I have a 5 pin 20-60. Out to 60 if I want to shoot an exact yardage, typically for 3D I’d use the top pin. After that I’d dial the bottom. For hunting I’m only going to dial beyond 60. Inside of that I’m going to split pins.

 

[nphunter]

If you were using a 3 pin set up, would it make sense to use the middle pin as the slider, so that you have a pin farther and closer to be able to adjust for animal movement? Or is that just silly nonsense?

I think whatever a person gets use to is what works. Personally I use my bottom pin 5th and only dial past 60 I just use pins at 20-60 and gap shoot in between yardages. I’ve only needed to dial for a couple of shots in hunting situations and those were long. Dialing is stressful, half the time I don’t even get a chance to get an accurate range, when I know and animal is coming in I range a bunch of stuff to get a rough idea but most of them time when they get there I’m drawing before I even see them and shooting when they step out. I don’t want to have to think about anything when shooting, I know the exact distances of my pins always and once I dial it’s always the bottom pin and the rest don’t matter. I feel like having the middle pin would be fine but trying to think about where the lower and upper pins are is a lot to remember, top pin could only be a 5 yard difference at 50 and a 10+ yards at 70, that’s a lot to think about in the heat of the moment.