Moose set up?

WCB

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This is going to be a very very basic open line of discussion. Heading to Alberta 2024 on an archery Moose hunt. Since the shooting is going to be 30 yards and in, I'm going at this with trad equipment. Have a Pearson 7090 48# bow. My draw is right around 26" so lets say 43# actual. Been shooting some random old arrows that came with it no markings on them at all but shooting fairly well out to 25yds (consistently 5 inch groups). Still have a solid year and a half to practice and hunt with it this fall for deer.

I bought a "test kit from Gold Tip" to figure out arrow length/spine/tip weight. What would, if there is any, goal weight be for the arrow? Or any recommendations on arrow build? Would like to eventually shoot wood arrows because why not but not married to it. 100% want to shoot feathers not plastic vanes.

Also, how about draw weight for moose/deer etc. I will 100% use this bow to build a foundation and not against moving up in the future. I have bow hunted for 24+ years but with a compound so I got that mostly figured out and know what works for arrows and setups there. Just want to do it right and not just throw some random crap through a trad bow.
 

oldgoat

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I would check with the guide and see if they have minimums, I personally probably wouldn't hunt with less than 60#@26" for moose and 10+gpp arrow weight.
 

smoke

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I've been involved in a few moose kills but only killed 1 myself so take this for what it is worth. I used a longbow - a 65# @ 28. That was more than was needed but I will say moose hide is thick and the animal is bigger than you might think. I agree with oldgoat to check for minimums. I do, however, believe that something in the 55# @ 28 range would be adequate. 2 blade broadhead is a must. Best of luck - Alberta is fun!
 
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kdsulliv

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I've seen it done with a 39# bow, but you gotta be close and sink that arrow in the right spot. I'd say you can do it with your setup, but get your arrow worked out to maximize penetration. The Ashby bowhunting foundation will probably help - following their principles I'd say make sure your arrow is tuned perfectly, go heavy - 600gn and up, and just go with a 2-blade, maybe a 2-blade with a bleeder. Single bevel would be my recommendation, but not totally necessary. If you do those things and only do a broadside shot INSIDE of 20 yards I think you'll be fine.
 
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WCB

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I would check with the guide and see if they have minimums, I personally probably wouldn't hunt with less than 60#@26" for moose and 10+gpp arrow weight.

I've been involved in a few moose kills but only killed 1 myself so take this for what it is worth. I used a longbow - a 65# @ 28. That was more than was needed but I will say moose hide is thick and the animal is bigger than you might think. I agree with oldgoat to check for minimums. I do, however, believe that something in the 55# @ 28 range would be adequate. 2 blade broadhead is a must. Best of luck - Alberta is fun!

I've seen it done with a 39# bow, but you gotta be close and sink that arrow in the right spot. I'd say you can do it with your setup, but get your arrow worked out to maximize penetration. The Ashby bowhunting foundation will probably help - following their principles I'd say make sure your arrow is tuned perfectly, go heavy - 600gn and up, and just go with a 2-blade, maybe a 2-blade with a bleeder. Single bevel would be my recommendation, but not totally necessary. If you do those things and only do a broadside shot INSIDE of 20 yards I think you'll be fine.
thanks for the baseline info...I know there are all sort of different thoughts on all this stuff as you guys are more than likely aware. Luckily I have hunted wolves with this outfitter a couple times and my dad hunted moose with him last year (compound) multiple opportunities inside 25yrds and I think the furthest his clients killed one was 20ish most inside that. The Outfitter is a die hard Trad guy and we shot a bunch of his bows when we were there and I don't think any of them were real high poundage. I know I could shoot quite a few arrows before getting tired and drawing/anchoring correctly. I will definitely run it by him and sure he will be pumped someone wanting to do it how he likes to do it.

Just wanted to bounce ideas off as many people as possible. My goal was to be around mid 50s for the hunt and right now the bow I have I can shoot all day which is nice for working on form and fundamentals.
 

Beendare

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I shot an 800# moose with my 46# recurve, 553g arrow, 2 blade….and blew 2 arrows through the rib cage at 30y like it was butter. i drilled that moose dead center first shot, it turned not really knowing what happened…so I shot again with the second arrow hitting 4” from the first, complete passthru again. Down in 5 steps.

Don’t over think it…or use a bow you can’t shoot well.

Now I have a long draw and I’m shooting very efficient Uukha limbs so thats a factor….but FYI the biggest factors are perfect arrow flight and a very efficient BH like a 2 blade. A 2 blade turns any arrow into a penetrating monster. I was blowing arrows through many critters with that setup big hogs, Deer, javelina….many of the arrows hardly even slowed down. I did shoot one coues buck hard quartering away breaking ribs in and the shoulder on the exit.

If you feel you are on the light side bow wise then just bump up your arrow weight a little.

Those moose are almost like shooting at a4x8 sheet of plywood with a kill zone the size of a basketball. You don’t need pinpoint accuracy with them…but you do need to pick a spot.
 

SliverShooter

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First check the regulation for minimum poundage, I believe it’s 50# in Alaska.

My thoughts:
-Good arrow flight
-Good two blade broadhead
-Heavy arrow,
-Most important is being able to put the arrow where you want it hit

My setup for moose (and everything else) is an Osage Selfbow, 58# @ 28 1/2”, shooting a 625-650 grain Sherwood Shaft arrow, tipped with a two blade Eclipse broadhead.
 
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WCB

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First check the regulation for minimum poundage, I believe it’s 50# in Alaska.

My thoughts:
-Good arrow flight
-Good two blade broadhead
-Heavy arrow,
-Most important is being able to put the arrow where you want it hit

My setup for moose (and everything else) is an Osage Selfbow, 58# @ 28 1/2”, shooting a 625-650 grain Sherwood Shaft arrow, tipped with a two blade Eclipse broadhead.
Alberta I believe is 40#...so I'm actually "legal" now... but plan on having a bow over 50# by then and realistically could shoot that poundage now just want to get the form and execution down 100%.
 

wytx

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I think you'll be good near to 50#.
I'd go for 550 gr arrows or so and 2 blade broadhead, cut on contact.
If shooting wood arrows I would say go tapered, sounds like not so just get your spine right.
They have thick hide but good sharp broadhead will go right through.

Should be a fun hunt, moose are made for bow hunting and taste great.
 
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Beendare

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The Dryad guys used to moose hunt every year and they used 50# bows.

If a guy thinks he is going to shoot through the big leg bones on a Moose, think again. You will get a soft target if you are patient.

.
 

Gun

FNG
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I live in Alberta and hunt Moose every year now. The minimum weight to be legal is in the process of being reduced to 35#. Mostly because of better arrows and components.

I've killed 10 so far, all w Trad gear. My last two Bulls were taken w 47# and 40# Bear TD. 560 gr arrow on both. I use COC two blades. 47# Bull hit opposite shoulder and went down in 20 yds. Last years 40# kill was double lung and BH just touched opposite side. I had to drop down in poundage because of shoulder surgery and used my teeth to pull the string and a mouth tab. He went 45 paces and fell in sight.

My best, and weighed in pieces (everything including innards) was 987# and was P&Y class. Complete pass thru w 53# Bear TD and two blade.

Hit them thru both lungs they won't go far. Study some anatomy pix and wait for Broadside! Aim lower third as some guys get messed up by the hump. I love hunting them big buggers almost as much as Whitetails. Almost.
Good Luck on your hunt!
 
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oldgoat

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The Dryad guys used to moose hunt every year and they used 50# bows.

If a guy thinks he is going to shoot through the big leg bones on a Moose, think again. You will get a soft target if you are patient.

.
Those dryad guys are some big tall guys and I'm sure pulling way over the 26" the op is pulling and shooting ACS limbs to boot.
 

Beendare

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Not much you cant kill with a 45# trad bow.

Someone with a short draw length might want to bump up their arrow weight a little bit is all… but with a very efficient BH the bow themselves are killing machines.

With trad bows it’s a lot more about the form and skill of the guy shooting it than anything else.

A guy can have a form flaw with a compound bow and be 8 inches out........ a form flaw with a trad bow and you completely missed the target.
 
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GLB

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50lbs is the requirement for Alaska. I would say that is a good starting point. The thing about draw weight is that some 40 pound bows are more efficient than 50 lbs bows.

For me when I dropped bow poundage and went from a 60 lbs longbow with wood arrows to a 53 lbs longbow I also switched to carbon arrows. I think the wood arrows would still work at that poundage but I wanted to make my bow as efficient as possible and felt carbon arrows helped with that.
 
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First check the regulation for minimum poundage, I believe it’s 50# in Alaska.

My thoughts:
-Good arrow flight
-Good two blade broad
-Most important is being able to put the arrow where you want it hit

My setup for moose (and everything else) is an Osage Selfbow, 58# @ 28 1/2”, shooting a 625-650 grain Sherwood Shaft arrow, tipped with a two blade Eclipse broadhead.
I've been looking hard at the eclipse lately. You like and recommend it? It flies well?
 

SliverShooter

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I've been looking hard at the eclipse lately. You like and recommend it? It flies well?

I have been using the original glue on Eclipse off and on for over twenty years. I keep trying other broadheads and always come back to the Eclipse. I have used them for deer, elk, and moose, without any problems. The steel in them is a little harder then most broadheads, making the touggher to sharpen, but they also hold an edge better then most. They mount easily and true. I prefer the 145 grain with replaceable bleeder blades for the deer and elk. Unfortunately, Blake quit making the bleeder blade models around ten years ago, they hard to find.

I shoot Wood arrows only, so I haven’t used the Ware-wolf model and can not comment on them.
 
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WCB

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Thanks to everyone for the replies...lucky me just picked up the same bow but 55# at 28. The other would have probably worked but now I can basically set them up identically and work into the higher weight without having to completely change setup.
 
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I guess Im more into the new age type bows. About 5yrs ago friend sent me an ILF recurve at 40# for whitetails and I havent put it down since. This year I will hunt moose in Alaska with 50# limbs. 650ish grain arrow. 2 blade single bevel broadhead that I sharpen myself for maximum sharpness. Goin with trad vanes because they say there is a chance it might rain.
 
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