rbutcher1234
WKR
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2023
- Messages
- 336
Eyeballing your master sporter, I’m guessing you have the 1.00” (A223) ringsI will try to look at the ones on mine tomorrow.
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Eyeballing your master sporter, I’m guessing you have the 1.00” (A223) ringsI will try to look at the ones on mine tomorrow.
I just told a buddy to buy a tikka from Euro. I might as well tell him to get a THLR 5-25 as well.
Make it a 22 creed and you’re good to goSuppressed Tikka .223 in Rokstock topped with Minox ZP5 THLR = .... Rokslide Super Special?
Definitely need to build an RSSS now...maybe chamber it in .223 AI, and make it a little more specialerer.
Going in the same seekins xtra highs as the bushy xrs3 its replacing.Sooooo.... now that we are all $2000 poorer. What mount are we getting?![]()
I’m not Form, but you should not be mourning the rights right on where the tube begins to flare. I would give it at least 1/8”.Mine will go into some flavor of NF Ultralight 4 screw rings. They're solid, light, and don't take up much real estate on the scope tube which allows for mounting as far apart as possible.
Side note to @Formidilosus or I guess anyone who would know:
I've heard a few people offhandedly mention that having a scope ring too close to where the objective starts to flare out can cause issues with parallax or something. Is that a real issue where I should give some space (like 0.25") from start of the objective or is it just fuddlore?
Jake told me I got the last one.I just told a buddy to buy a tikka from Euro. I might as well tell him to get a THLR 5-25 as well.
Better you than me.Jake told me I got the last one.![]()