Minox ZP5 5-25x56 MR4

[rbutcher1234]

I will try to look at the ones on mine tomorrow.

Eyeballing your master sporter, I’m guessing you have the 1.00” (A223) rings

 

[RockAndSage]

I just told a buddy to buy a tikka from Euro. I might as well tell him to get a THLR 5-25 as well.

Suppressed Tikka .223 in Rokstock topped with Minox ZP5 THLR = .... Rokslide Super Special?

Definitely need to build an RSSS now...maybe chamber it in .223 AI, and make it a little more specialerer.

 

[Ajsomp]

Suppressed Tikka .223 in Rokstock topped with Minox ZP5 THLR = .... Rokslide Super Special?

Definitely need to build an RSSS now...maybe chamber it in .223 AI, and make it a little more specialerer.

Make it a 22 creed and you’re good to go

 

[wind gypsy]

Sooooo.... now that we are all $2000 poorer. What mount are we getting?

Going in the same seekins xtra highs as the bushy xrs3 its replacing.

I’ll probably buy area419 rings the next time I need new pic rings though.

 

[JohnJohnson]

Mine will go into some flavor of NF Ultralight 4 screw rings. They're solid, light, and don't take up much real estate on the scope tube which allows for mounting as far apart as possible.

Side note to @Formidilosus or I guess anyone who would know:

I've heard a few people offhandedly mention that having a scope ring too close to where the objective starts to flare out can cause issues with parallax or something. Is that a real issue where I should give some space (like 0.25") from start of the objective or is it just fuddlore?

 

[rbutcher1234]

Mine will go into some flavor of NF Ultralight 4 screw rings. They're solid, light, and don't take up much real estate on the scope tube which allows for mounting as far apart as possible.

Side note to @Formidilosus or I guess anyone who would know:

I've heard a few people offhandedly mention that having a scope ring too close to where the objective starts to flare out can cause issues with parallax or something. Is that a real issue where I should give some space (like 0.25") from start of the objective or is it just fuddlore?

I’m not Form, but you should not be mourning the rights right on where the tube begins to flare. I would give it at least 1/8”.

 

[5MilesBack]

I just told a buddy to buy a tikka from Euro. I might as well tell him to get a THLR 5-25 as well.

Jake told me I got the last one.

 

[Ajsomp]

Jake told me I got the last one.

Better you than me.

 

[Dobermann]

Side note to @Formidilosus or I guess anyone who would know:

I've heard a few people offhandedly mention that having a scope ring too close to where the objective starts to flare out can cause issues with parallax or something. Is that a real issue where I should give some space (like 0.25") from start of the objective or is it just fuddlore?

Somewhat relevant to your question, here's a pic from user NotBotvinnik on the Hide, which I think might have accompanied a post about the need for wide ring spacing for the ZP5 5-25, given its long body:

 

[Formidilosus]

Side note to @Formidilosus or I guess anyone who would know:

I've heard a few people offhandedly mention that having a scope ring too close to where the objective starts to flare out can cause issues with parallax or something. Is that a real issue where I should give some space (like 0.25") from start of the objective or is it just fuddlore?

Haven’t seen any issues with good scopes, and unending ones with junk scopes. I do make sure that the ring isn’t touching the bell- probably an 1/8th inch or so.

 

[Nine Banger]

Side note to @Formidilosus or I guess anyone who would know:

I've heard a few people offhandedly mention that having a scope ring too close to where the objective starts to flare out can cause issues with parallax or something. Is that a real issue where I should give some space (like 0.25") from start of the objective or is it just fuddlore?

I did this unintentionally with a Maven Rs1.2 with a T3x in 6.5 PRC. I was distracted during assembly and forgot to torque one dovetail clamp screw on the front ring and the entire front ring took a ride up into the dovetail and onto the bell. The rear ring and scope held fast.

It did not affect parallax but the clamp got mashed up and I had to file out the galled metal on both parts. I shot it a lot before I noticed.

I bet it would have affected zero retention on a drop because the scope would be less held, but the scope could also twist like a tikka barrel in a Viper vise due to limited contact with the scope tube. There must be some air between the ring and the scope body if it's up on the bell.

My fix was adding the recoil pin on the front ring, which moved the clamp back 1/8" and I put a grind to fit recoil pad on the stock to get the 1/8" in the back.

Everything has room now.

 

[Wrench]

Can anyone tell me the objective bell diameter on the 50 and 56mm zp5's?

I have some on order but I cannot get a number for which rusan adapters I need.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RockAndSage]

Can anyone tell me the objective bell diameter on the 50 and 56mm zp5's?

I have some on order but I cannot get a number for which rusan adapters I need.

Thanks in advance.

Pulled this off a review, here you go - ZP5 on top:

 

[Wrench]

Thanks.....now for the 50mm.